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Old 04-25-2010 | 08:51 AM
  #10516  
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Originally Posted by MMor101
I purchased a non GX 3 port race last season and I have been having troubles with the low end since. When the motor heats up, the bottom end gets real soft almost like a broken clutch spring. I've replaced the whole clutch setup, sealed the whole motor, and even put in new carb orings! Today I borrowed a friends Nova carb and the bottom end got much better but still get soft at the end of the tank on the track. I KNOW the engine is tuned correctly. I even had Ed Bridges from EB Mods tune the motor and it still eventually got soft on the bottom. I've checked tank pressure and replaced all the lines. What's the deal? This is a pretty discouraging first time experience with GO Engines.
what brand of clutch are you using.... sounds to me like its possibly your clutch fading
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Old 04-25-2010 | 08:59 AM
  #10517  
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can i still use a crankcase eventhough it has a scratch inside of it? the scratch is located to where the the piston rotates, idont know if it will ruin the bottom part of the conrod.im thinking of sanding the scratch to make it smooth again.
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Old 04-25-2010 | 09:26 AM
  #10518  
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Originally Posted by jeremiah23
can i still use a crankcase eventhough it has a scratch inside of it? the scratch is located to where the the piston rotates, idont know if it will ruin the bottom part of the conrod.im thinking of sanding the scratch to make it smooth again.
If a rod breaks and leaves a mark I usually just dremel it smooth. Make sure it didn't puncture the block.

Rex
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Old 04-25-2010 | 09:28 AM
  #10519  
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Originally Posted by chrisjohns
What pipe is recomended for the go 7 port being run in a truggy? Thanks
The 053 used to be a common pipe on the 7 port, should give it more bottom end for a truggy. The 0801 and 2072 would work well also I think. You will want 1.1 clutch springs.

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Old 04-25-2010 | 10:47 AM
  #10520  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
Your motor may have the long low speed needle which will tune differently.

Rex
Ed told me I had the short needle. The motor still did it even after I put the Nova carb on albeit it was much better. I'm going to check the line clunk inside the tank.
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Old 04-25-2010 | 10:47 AM
  #10521  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
what brand of clutch are you using.... sounds to me like its possibly your clutch fading
All HB stuff on a HB D8. Carbon shoes with 1.0 springs.
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Old 04-25-2010 | 02:27 PM
  #10522  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
grizz, did you put in the hsn/lsn from massive mods? If so what is the difference? easier to tune? also the other turbo head,the one that mark modded. The needles are for the mg-66.
I put the modded needles in my GX-3R. Gives a wider tuning window, so you can adjust 1/8 of a turn at a time on the top as opposed to a screwdriver blade width. I am so used to the small adjustments on my three motors now I think I actually prefer it that way, but the new needles work fine.
The modded head button seemed to give the 3R more snap and a crisper bottom end, plus a little more on top too (could be my imagination ) but it's running stronger than before. No noticable increase in economy that I can tell, but we are running in a dust bowl at present with humid changable weather, so it's hard to tell on economy.
The head button would be a good addition to the MG66 Matt.

Originally Posted by chrisjohns
What pipe is recomended for the go 7 port being run in a truggy? Thanks

GO EFRA 2072 for sure. We have guys running the 7 Port with 2072 in their Mugen MBX6 truggies here, and they are very strong.
Just out of interest, we are selling quite a few 2072 pipes to the guys running the new orange headed Alpha motors here. It It improves the performance of the motors markedly over other pipes they have been using, and still gives great economy.
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Old 04-26-2010 | 07:30 AM
  #10523  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
GO EFRA 2072 for sure. We have guys running the 7 Port with 2072 in their Mugen MBX6 truggies here, and they are very strong.
Just out of interest, we are selling quite a few 2072 pipes to the guys running the new orange headed Alpha motors here. It It improves the performance of the motors markedly over other pipes they have been using, and still gives great economy.
I think the Alpha 2081 is better pipe on the S852 than 2072 both in terms of power and economy. Though the 2072 might be better match on the T850 and works very well for the F850 as well. Where I see the most difference is definitely top-end. Where the 2072 starts to choke the 2081 still goes on. Anyway now that the quality issues on the pipe has been solved it's definitely something to look for in you are after a good quality overall pipe.
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Old 04-26-2010 | 07:41 AM
  #10524  
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Go place 7º at sudamericano 2010...
congratulations concha
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Old 04-26-2010 | 01:57 PM
  #10525  
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Originally Posted by Poinas2
I think the Alpha 2081 is better pipe on the S852 than 2072 both in terms of power and economy. Though the 2072 might be better match on the T850 and works very well for the F850 as well. Where I see the most difference is definitely top-end. Where the 2072 starts to choke the 2081 still goes on. Anyway now that the quality issues on the pipe has been solved it's definitely something to look for in you are after a good quality overall pipe.
Cool. That pipe hasn't become available here yet to my knowledge. Sounds good. I might have to try one on my GO's . I am told it has a shorter header, which would account for the increased top end. What is the bottom end like compared to the 2072 ?
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Old 04-26-2010 | 03:45 PM
  #10526  
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grizz,do you know off of the top of your head the shim stack that came on the mg-66? also on your xray buggy how are you replacing the drive pins? [center and wheels]and will heating them help them come out easier?
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Old 04-26-2010 | 04:37 PM
  #10527  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
grizz,do you know off of the top of your head the shim stack that came on the mg-66? also on your xray buggy how are you replacing the drive pins? [center and wheels]and will heating them help them come out easier?
MG66 comes with 1 x .3mm alloy and 2 x .1mm copper, same as the standard GX motors.

I use the Hudy drive pin removal tool for the X-Ray drive pins:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...placement-Tool

Unless you know someone who is a dab hand with a lathe, and can knock up something similar, it's the best if not the only way !!
Those pins will not come out easily. All you normally end up doing is splitting or shattering the pin trying any other method.
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Old 04-26-2010 | 04:54 PM
  #10528  
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thank you grizz. I just tried my trusty chain link removal tool that I made to do the jammin pins. I feel like I sprained my muscles in my forarm holding 2 wrenches trying to crank the pin out. said fck it and just bought the hudy one. I have been skating for years with old rusty! Thats what happens when you try to be a cheap ass!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-26-2010 | 11:08 PM
  #10529  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Cool. That pipe hasn't become available here yet to my knowledge. Sounds good. I might have to try one on my GO's . I am told it has a shorter header, which would account for the increased top end. What is the bottom end like compared to the 2072 ?
Yes it has a slightly shorter header and also the chamber volume/dimension is different. Don't know what tricks are inside but the pipe is very good also on bottom end and to me it does not lack anything for 2072. I have not tested it yet on any GO's (I have GX-5R, MM 5pt, MG66 and few older stockers) so would be nice to know how it performs.
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Old 04-26-2010 | 11:23 PM
  #10530  
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Get the hudy tool matt...I broke my first few pins trying to replace them while waiting for my hudy tool to arrive.with the proper tool takes 20 seconds..

and I'd also like to hear how the 2081 pipe runs on the MG66..my 2072 is looking a bit battered and I had to fabricate a new stinger pipe after I snapped mine off.so before I buy a new 2072.....
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