![]() |
What plug would yall recommend for a GO 3 Port R engine? OS P3, OD 97T, something in between? Im running 30% nitro.
Thanks, James W. |
either a Go T3 or OS P3
|
The O'donell one work realy good too, that's what i run on mine and it's realy cheap too;)
|
i run O'donnel one one mine, and it's cheap and work realy well;)
|
Originally Posted by dakamat
(Post 6620177)
i run O'donnel one one mine, and it's cheap and work realy well;)
Im running the new 5 port with 7mm vent and the engine is very very good, the price-preformace ratio is GREAT!!!!!!! and the engine has a nice torque a good runtime. give it a try if some or your are on a new engine, you will be glad of the choice. Regards ALG from Peru |
i run O'donnel one one mine, and it's cheap and work realy well;)
|
Plug for Go 3 pt Pro
I run a P4 on 25% so you may even go to a P5 on 30% or the O'Donnell equiv etc. P4 for sure though.
|
Originally Posted by Mauve
(Post 6620388)
I run a P4 on 25% so you may even go to a P5 on 30% or the O'Donnell equiv etc. P4 for sure though.
know how to tune. I've even ran a P6 before. The colder the plug the smaller the tuning window. The P3 does make it easier for the newer owners of GO engines to find a descent tune and keeping them running during the break-in process. |
Right there with you Rageworks, I have broken all my Go's in on a P3 then chnaged to the P4 after the first couple of litres. The P3 is great for getting a good strong idle very easily however the P4 seems a bit better after its broken in and you can get a little bit better power from it on the colder plugs. In really hot conditions running on 30% I have gone to a P6 before as well but as you said, you have to be right on the ball to get the tune spot on and a small variance will yield poor results or flame outs. I love my Go motors however I have to say I am not a fan of the Go Plugs as I found went through them rather quick, where I seem to get 3-4 litres (1 US Gallon) on one plug with the OS plugs. The LRP #6 (about a P4-5) plugs aren't bad, I just had a bad run for a little bit (maybe it was just the batch) and went straight back to OS/Ninja plugs (same plug, different brand). O'Donnell plugs aren't common here in Australia so I can't comment really though from what I have read, they have been good.
With Go motors, the most common tuning problem I have found is that people tend to have a large idle gap and compensate this with a rich bottom end, with the net result of power not being up to scratch and blowing of plugs, watch this one. Pull the air filter, set you idle gap to about .7mm and tune the LSN from there and you should be giggling. |
go crank question
question for the go engine die hards..
ok i know the p/s/r are interchangable with the novarossi p5's (and some plus 21's)but are the 14mm cranks also? basically could i use a 14mm novarossi crank in a go and vise versa)? btw speaking about the older go engines,(dont know anything about the newer versions)but i think internally these mill are the same except the go front bearing. thanks for any help;). |
Originally Posted by helivaguy
(Post 6620956)
question for the go engine die hards..
ok i know the p/s/r are interchangable with the novarossi p5's (and some plus 21's)but are the 14mm cranks also? basically could i use a 14mm novarossi crank in a go and vise versa)? btw speaking about the older go engines,(dont know anything about the newer versions)but i think internally these mill are the same except the go front bearing. thanks for any help;). Yes a Go crank will swap with a p5 and alot of Novarossi's. I was just measuring a new Titanium nitrided crank today and noticed the lightened the backside of the counterweight a bit. Nice! The Nitrided crank pin measured at .1966 inch or 4.9936 mm. Rex |
Awesome..thanks Rex!
|
Does anyone know what the top end needle should be set to in terms of turns out. I dont like the idea of set it to "flush." That is vague in my opinion and one's flush may not be actually flush. Since you only turn it in maybe a half turn at most, I'm curious if my start point is off.
|
Originally Posted by racer6888
(Post 6621428)
Does anyone know what the top end needle should be set to in terms of turns out. I dont like the idea of set it to "flush." That is vague in my opinion and one's flush may not be actually flush. Since you only turn it in maybe a half turn at most, I'm curious if my start point is off.
I think the reason they don't tell you turns out is you can damage the 0-ring or needle if you turn it in too hard. I have never check how many turns out. Rex |
Hey guys, as requested here is the MSRP listing of the current line of go engines:
R256P-P420SG 25 PRO Rear Exhaust Red Head $300.00 R286P-P420SG 28 PRO Rear Exhaust Red Head $330.00 GX-3R 21 Turbo Rear Exhaust Orange Head $290.00 GX-5R 21 Turbo Rear Exhaust Orange Head $330.00 GX-7R 21 Turbo Rear Exhaust Orange Head $350.00 MG66 Massive Mods MG-66 $400.00 Combos: GX-3R+PI2072 GX-3R Combo Set (Engine/EFRA 2072/Venturi(4pcs) $355.00 GX-5R+PI2072 GX-5R Combo Set (Engine/EFRA 2072/Venturi(4pcs) $365.00 GX-7R+PI2072 GX-7R Combo Set (Engine/EFRA 2072/Venturi(4pcs) $375.00 Please keep in mind that these prices are MSRP, are subject to change, and street price will be considerably lower. Also, the combo kits list the venturi pieces (carb inserts) in the description, but both the combo and the engines themselves come with them |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:13 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.