Thanks for the fast reply. I got the c clips but the wrist pin is backordered. Ill back order one then. I only race once a month so i should have one by 2 gallons. And your right about the heat gun . This moter does not like to start when cold.

Thanks Mark, I knew you would be able to clear things up for us.
I don't need a new motor right now, as both my 5 & 7 Ports are as reliable as ever, and right in the prime of their racing lives, and going HARD
But when the time comes, I think one of your MG66 babies might just find a home in my buggy
If it's better then my Stage 5 5 Port, then it's gonna be worth having for sure.

Now thats sexy and also massive !

if anyone one is looking for a 5pt go, here is a heck of a deal:

http://cgi.ebay.com/GO-21-5-2p-Turbo...lenotsupported

sorry its taken me so long to post reagarding the pics of the new Go range and Mark's 66.......but after all the drool on my keyboard i was a little worried about being electricuted lol

i wonder if the new heads will fit on my Gen 5's????

Mike

Its a Gen 5 .. possibly run out stock from last year

go to massive mods web site and order one. or fx racing hobbies in canada my have one, also racer22 is a dealer he may have one. I usually just go to massive mods. back ordering some times means they will have a new engine out before you get the parts. They go fast. If you can afford it order 2 of each if you plan on running go-tec's for any amount of time. as far as cold, if I cannot get a heat gun going at the track I will leave the glow igniter on for a minute, then easy rev's for about another 2 minutes. then it's easy driving till it's warmed up. You can always tell when it's warmed up, it all of a sudden comes to life.

Hey Mike , wait till you run one ! a bit scarry

THE new MG66 will be factory made . there anr no more hand made versions avail they have sold out

Are the Go wrist pins that are gold color supposed to be special? Reason I ask is because both of the new P/S/R sets I put in my 5 port and had last less than a gallon before the clips broke or blew out had them in it. I removed the pin and there is severe wear on the ends by the clips. Thinking that is what caused the clip to pop and make a mess of everything. I put a OS pin and clips in the new P/S/R I put in my 7 port hoping it will last longer. I'm approaching the 3/4 gal mark with it now.

Those are the newer pins. The gold colour is a Titanium Nitride coating to harden the surface for better wear. As far as I know the dimensions would be exactly the same as previous models, it's just the coating that is different.

Well from what I'm seeing they wear faster. I'll take some pics of it and show ya. I don't think I've ever seen a wrist pin wear like this before actually. Not even on a 4 gal motor.

JONESING bro JONESING lol

Hey Grizz,

Can you go over the shortened lsn thing again for me. Are you modifying the long lsn, cutting the end off and rounding it off a bit. Can you give me the overall dimensions in mm please. Also when it comes to tuning with this mod do you start with the Hsn or Lsn?


Thanks mate.

Hi Tony,

Yes, we are modifying the long LSN so that it clears the spray bar at full throttle. The early Gen GO motors had a short LSN just like this (and most other motors on the market out there). The long LSN you have works good too, providing a smooth transition from bottom to top end, but it can be a bit tricky to tune with this long needle, as it is imperitive that you run the HSN rich enough to allow this system to work. If you are just the slightest bit lean on the top you will run into problems with lean bog etc.
With the shorter LSN the GO carb will tune just like any other carb - OS, RB Novasossi etc.
The preferred method (from what I have been taught anyway) is to make sure your idle gap is .7 - 1 mm, then tune the LSN first (providing the HSN is not way out) for a clean smooth take off and nice steady idle that does not drop off after a short while (too rich on the bottom). Then tune the HSN for good performance and exhaust smoke right up to full throttle. Now come back and check the LSN again. If you needed to change the HSN a bit you may have to reset the LSN again by a little bit, as the HSN has a direct effect on the LSN setting too. When you have the needles set, adjust the idle speed to a suitable level if required.
You should find the LSN will be about the same number of turns in from flush as it was before, but the HSN will come in from .5 turns in to somewhere around 1 - 1.5 turns in from flush (which is where the easier tuning comes in).

It's not to tricky to shorten the needle. Just remove it from the motor and grind or cut the end off close to the required length, leaving enough to round the end off down to the exact measurement you want. Roll the needle point in soome fine emery paper or something similar to form a nice rounded bull nose end on the needle.
The original long needle will be 1.6" or 40.63mm in total length. You want to shorten it down to 1.42" or 36.09mm total length. You don't have to be super exact with this. If won't matter if your out by .1mm it's still going to work fine. It will just be 1/16 of a turn or less difference on the LSN in getting the same tune.
Sorry it's such a long post, but if your going to explain something I reckon you should do it fully. Then there's no room for mis-understanding

Some pics would be cool thanks. I have just got a couple of those pins to put in the spare parts box for when I do my next O/Haul, so I am interested to see what you have described.