thanks for the info grizz and malik, it does have the red/white logo :cool:

Hi Grizz!

thanks for the info on the pipe/header combo!

"working man's 2072" thats gold bro :lol:

i originally ran the 2072 with a Go 7 port in my buggy but it ate 2 diffs in 1 heat lol so i had to reduce throttle % and change some clutch springs (it was off its tits lol)

since then i've thrown a Gen 5.5 carb/rod and crank in the 5 port and am sticking to the 5 port/2072 combo with is perfect IMO!

i guess im a little spoilt in sydney as i get direct access to Massive and just happened to be in the shop when the 2072 delivery came ;)

Mike

What's up Matt. You coming to Reno this weekend?

Gen 4 should have the long LSN, so stock settings would be HSN flush, LSN 1.5 in from flush. Propably end up in race tune with the HSN .5 in from flush, and the LSN 2 - 2.5 in from flush.


Yeah, being close to Marks shop must be cool. Lucky I don't live in Old Sydney Town or I would have a tent set up in his doorway - :ha:

Jeepers, that pipe sounds like a killer combo. Won't be long now :D

not this weekend,just got back from colorado. I like the mess they are making out of 80 getting inand out of reno on 80. How's the toro nero doing?

Hey pantera,

looks like Grizz already beat me to the reply:sneaky:, and he's got it 100%

as for the 2072's I talked to our importer today and they should be here very soon.... can't wait

Adrian:spidey:

Hey yeah - sorry for jumping the gun on you Retro. It's a long wet day, I'm stuck in front of the laptop doing my tax return (bit late I know), just couldn't resist doing another post :D

NO Toro Nero. I just have the PLUS 4 and this engine ROCKS :D I leave the bottom just a hair on the fat side and the power is very linear and doesn't rip the wheels off. Makes for a very smooth and easy engine to drive and tune.

I STILL HAVE THE GRENADE AND IT IS GOING IN THE WIFES NEW ZX-1.5R THAT WILL BE HERE TUESDAY!

yeah grizz answered it perfectly for me bro!

i know Massive sold out of them in no time over here!

keep me posted when it arrives on what you think of it and if it actually is similar to the "working mans" 2072 combo ;)

Mike

I bought a used (with 2 gals) go tech 3 port engine (turbo plug). According to the guy it ran find but I cannot tune it for the life of it. I've read in several places that these engines are known for their sensitive carb. My question is how do I tell I've the older carb or a newer one? 2nd question if it turns out that I have to replace the p/s/r then is it possible that I can put the 5 port piston/sleve/rod in this crank case?

with 2 gallons on it it is just broken in if it was taken care of,and you should need to remove the break in head gasket.[with head off there should be 3 shims] You should just be able to turn it over by hand with the flywheel attached. and it should make a nice poop sound. if not you have some options.1;22racer on this thread will pinch the sleeve for you at a reasonable price. He is a quality individual. As far as all the internals swapping out I do believe it depends if it's the race or rtr sport version. I am sure you will get some one with a ton of knowledge to help you with this matter. also make sure that the head bolts are tightened down as well as the glow plug. As far as tuning I would seal everything up with some red rtv sealant. Also the seals on the carb needles will leak over time but you can make some out of fuel tubing. read back a few pages I believe it was grizz who tells how to do it. If you have good compression it sounds like you have an air leak. So if I owned it-1 seal it up,-2 install new glow plug,-3 set needles back to flush, if newer carb[red go on front] hsn 1/2 turn in from flush,lsn 1 1/2 turns in from flush. fire it up see what happens. No or low compression you have problems.Also if you do have compression you need to replace the wrist pin,c-clips and rod asap. Can I ask what you paid for it?

Need some help guys. My engine is fighting me, and driving me nuts. It idles on the box and ground and runs up and down the street but dies when i lock up the brakes and come a stop. Any ideas? I checked my linkage and its not closing the carb or anything. Dont think my tune is far off.
James

double check your idle gap i have mine at .7 also it sounds to me like it still a bit to rich on the bottem ....
do you have the long needle on the lsp?

mine did that also, was to lean on top. as matt said recheck that idle gap and make sure when applying brakes your not forcing it to close to far. I also had that happen to me. the new high torque servos are great for brakes but are a little hard on the carbs,IMO. I had a hitec digital that was 177.0 oz's. of torque that really would want to pull the engine when I applied full throttle and vice versa. I went and set the epa at 65% seems fine. I also adjust my idle gap with batteries fully charged and brakes applied.

Sounds like the boys have it covered ;)
Does sound like an idle gap / too rich problem. Either the idle gap is too small and the motor is simply stalling, or it's too rich on the bottom and it's loading up after a full throttle burst and choking itself. If it's too lean on top it would normally die as you accelerate away, say around half throttle. Just crank the idle up a little and see what happens. Maybe try a hotter plug too.
Matt, that's a good idea about the servo settings too. I run ACE 15 kg servo's for steering and throttle/brake (mainly due to the speed of operation on the throttle/brake). I never have the throttle /brake servo EPA set at any more than 70%. I then set the adjustable brake exponential on my Spektrum to 70% as well, and then set up my brake linkages from there. This setting provides ample stopping power and saves wear and tear on the servo and the linkages. If I do need more stopping power or get a bit of brake fade, I have another 30% of travel I can dial in on the run, and still not be pushing the servo past 70% of its max travel.