might be better off getting a motor that is pre broke in if he isnt gonna have help from someone that is experienced during break in

+1 to that :cool:
The 5 and 7 Port GO´s might be a bit of a handful being so tight, for someone with little or no nitro motor experience.

didnt quite follow you there 22racer. Can you explain thanks

Tonight I removed the back plate and head of my new Go 5-port and flushed it thoroughly with Nitro Juice 30% to give a good cleaning! The punch is so gawd damn tight! I really can't imagine the load it puts on the conrod breaking these things in. I sure hope race factor is stocking con rods now, because I plan to change this one around 2 gallons.

It's now mounted in the car with a P6 turbo plug and a Dynamite 007HT exhaust ready to be fired up for the first time. Going to break it in on Wednesday night, a local guy is bringing me two gallons of Nitro Juice 25%.

Probably. Did you read Massives thread on shimming ?
If you are running all the factory shims plus the break in shim then your motor will run a little cooler. That´s why foiling the head during break in is a good move to keep the temps up, and reduce the strain and wear on the rod etc.
Don't lean it too much, as the temps might not show just how lean you really are.

Nice one rear view. Yep, these puppies are super tight alright !!
Break in will take a while - like 12 to 15 tanks if you use the heat cycle method as described on page 78 of this thread by mugen46b. This is the method I would recommend. And remember - you won't get full power and performance out of the new motor until about the 1.5 gallon mark when the pinch goes away, so don´t be leaning it out to get a little extra until this time. With that much pinch you won´t get the extra power you are looking for, just lean bog :) Be patient, and you will be rewarded with a real nasty motor :sneaky: Follow Massives tuning tips for the Gen 5 carb on the last page too. It makes running these motors sooo much easier and satisfying.

I can't find that post by Massive Mods for tuning tips. Can you link it for me? I have 40 posts per page setup so I seem to get everything wrong when people point out locations. I've also not seen that break in post mugen46b, but I'll try searching for his post. I'll be patient with the break in, I don't plan on racing for another 3 weeks so I'll have plenty of time to get a gallon or two through it.

Temp gun pointing directly at the glow plug will read higher temps than reading it just to the head. If you have an on board temp guage they have a loop that goes around the head and will also read somewhat lower temps.
Most people that I know put the temp gun directly in the center of the head pointing down at the glow plug and move it around some to try to find the highest temp.
Temop guns also vary quite a bit and can get dirty and not read correctly.

Rex

i finally got the tuning right on my 7 port right (stupid me was tuning it thinking i had the long hsn)...before that it was burning plugs like crazy because i guess the hsn was too rich? i dont know, the plugs looked like someone stuck a screw driver in there and just went crazy. but ever since i got the hsn right its all gravy now and she is flying. yay

Here you go bro -

GO engine breakin. NB Brian is talking the long LSN settings here on the Gen 4 motor. Set your needles both flush (factory setting for Gen 5) but the rest of the procedure is the same, just tune according to the newer Gen 5 specs listed by Massive Mods in the second quote.

"there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.

Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.

Installing the engine.

After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.

Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.

Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb

Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.

If i can help with anything that wasn't asked let me know or just give me a ring.
__________________
Brian Carey
Pro Twister Mods
[email protected]"



Gen 5 Tuning

"Re The Go Carb

id say 80 % of the problems reported about the carb are due to user error. the other 20% may have resulted in past faults that have long been rectified , im talking about 12 months ago. .. The new carb with long LSN tunes differently to traditional carbs. Personally i like the new carb and Long LSN , I have made sure that people know about how to tune them and they are getting excellent results and major tank time.



Buggy average 11.2 mins 0801 pipe 6.5 mm restrictor epa 65% .4 shim
Truggy average 12.5 mins

The New carb is designed to be very simple once you understand how it works.

Tune it from the LSN only till you get 3/4 of the rev range right

then fine tune the HSN ( you are within 1/4 turn from performance tune )

Simple

Also simple to reference stock settings - Flush HSN Flush LSN"

By Mark from Massive Mods.



Hope this helps rearview - nice avatar by the way :nod:

^ Thanks mate. After watching Flight of the Conchords I'm learning Kiwi's are good people. :D

Seriously, thanks for posting this for me, I searched for it once before.

Does loosening the plug apply to Turbo engines as well?

totaly agree with carb issue's .......but if uve never tried a speed carb or a 3 needle carb on a Go u should..... it really helps the bottom to mid range.... im not saying go carbs are bad carbs ....but u cant deny how durible and the qaulity of a speed carb .....in my opinion the Go carb is the only thing holding most racers back from trying Go's because of there past issue's

how much more would it raise the cost to totally redesign a new carb like a speed carb ? i thing it would be worth it Do u? explain why


this is just my opinion i love my Go tech's .....so dont hammer me

I got the Speed carb for $60, so I'm definately going to try it. The reason I got it in the first place is that my GO carb would move slightly when tightened down. I talked to Brian at PTM about this and he said:

I don't want this to happen again, that's for sure. Even holding the 2 carbs in my hand the Speed carb feels much more solid and better built. Once I get my new engine I'll be back to tell you guys what I think.

Novarossi Carb fits?
 

Hey guys!

I was told, the newer Gen5 Carbs are nearly copies of Novarossi's...
So, do these fit? I have several RB carbs as spare around which could be worth trying....

Yes RB carbs will fit.