Hi Chippo,

The skirt side (lowest) of the piston should point to the backplate. Also be sure the oil groove cut into one side of the con rod points to the front of the engine when installed. This groove supplies oil to the bushings on the con rod and must face the front of the motor to get sufficient oil pick up.

Go for the 0801 pipe on the 5 Port.
Read and follow the break in instructions on bottom of page 78 from this forum. Be patient with the break in as these motors are very tight when new.
Tuning instructions on page 131 around top of page somewhere, posted by Massive Mods.
Like NitroLuver said - run 1.1mm springs unless the track is really loose and slippery then maybe drop to 1mm.
Run 3 x alloy shoes and normally a 13T bell will do the trick. If the 5 Port has too much bottom for you initially maybe try a 14T bell to tame it down. All a matter of experimenting to see what works for your track and driving style.
I am guessing at first with a standard restrictor (8mm) you will get around 7 to 7.5 min in a truggy. Try running a 7 mm restrictor. This will give you better run time, but still allow plenty of power. Enjoy

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3639

will these work??

and then what clutch bell, can yo guys link the stuff from amainhobbies??

also what dynamite pipe, cant afford go

ok what car are you running this in? sorry if I missed it

those shoes will work if you're running a jammin vehicle or something..each companies shoes vary slightly as well as their springs and sg nuts

clutch bell depends on what you need a standard(long) or narrow(short)clutch bell

dynamite pipes:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9006

086(top end pipe..will soften the bottom)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9005

053mr(will increase mid to top punch)

hope this helps

where does the 5 port lack... bottom, mid, or top. I will be running it in a kyosho st-rr. I need a fly wheel and clutch shoes. I been hearing that everyone is having problems with the 5 port and that the 7 and 3 are much better.

doesn't lack anywhere it's a just a preference do you want to have more bottom to mid or more mid to top? the 053 will probably feel more responsive all the way through where the 086 will give killer top end

i didn't have probs other than messing up my tune and running the bottom too lean causing it to pop plugs

y not buy kyosho shoes and springs? along with clutch bells?

I haven't had any issues with my 5 port and I have the older Gen 4 version.

I feel that the 5 port isn't lacking anything. It has tons of low end toque and good top end especially for the tracks here in the U.S. The 7 port has a bit more top and the power is more linear but the 5 port is more than enough engine to move your ST-RR around without a problem and you will have good run time compared to a larger .25 to .28 engine.

For a flywhell and shoes, you should look into a M2C set.

http://m2cracing.com/category.sc?categoryId=25

ok so i will get the shoes and cluthes from kyosho, and the 053 pipe. what the difference between the 5 port and jpx .21??
Thanks guys i really apreciate the help!!!!!!!!!!!

Nitro, i have been having problems with popping glow plugs. Every time i play (usually 1x a month) i always have to change plugs? does it mean i have a lean bottom? I have a GO .21 7port.

could be these engines tell you they're too lean when they start eating plugs by tanks end( I could run 3 tanks in a row or 1 and the plugs were eaten) I would describe how the engine temps and feels to brian of PTM as he'll be able to further assist you..but in my personal case it was too lean on the bottom..try richening the engine up on both bottom and top and run it for a tank see if it eats plugs...assuming you've already checked to make sure there isn't any dirt inside the engine. I am no expert just stating what I was told by the go tech master so please contact him for a more experienced opinion

"ok so i will get the shoes and cluthes from kyosho, and the 053 pipe. what the difference between the 5 port and jpx .21??
Thanks guys i really apreciate the help!!!!!!!!!!!"


the differences between the go tech and the jpx is i'd say the jpx has much more bottom(can't comment on the top...though it's scary fast) the go tech 5 port is fast 2. IMHO you can't go wrong with either motor but the 5 port will not disappoint by any means.

Alway check idle gap, the gap when the throttle slide is closed. It should be .7-1. mm. You shouldn't adjust the idle screw after setting gap. If the idle is low the lsn is rich, it the idle is high the lsn is too lean.
I used to go through plugs when I shut down cars by plugging the exhaust. Then the next time you try to start the plugs dead.

Rex

I agree the JPX .21 has a massive bottom end for a .21....in some cases too much bottom which can cause wheel spin...

22Racer is right on with the idle gap. I suspect your idle gap is too wide, meaning you are running very rich on the bottom and too lean on the top.
Motor performs ok, but gets hot towards the end of the tank, and will kill plugs quite often.
Set idle gap to .7 - 1mm as suggested. Flush HSN and set LSN 1.5 turns in. Warm up motor and turn LSN in far enough to get good pinch test or nice sharp acceleration off the mark and a steady idle. That should be right on tune or close to it. Maybe 2 hours more in on the HSN but not much more. Also remember the Go engines need only very small needle adjustments. 1 - 2 hours can be too far. They are very sensitive when close to a good tune. The Go's like a fairly lean bottom end and a rich top end (with the long LSN). You can tell if you have the long LSN as it stays in the spray bar right up to full throttle. The short LSN pulls out of the spray bar at around 1/4 to 1/2 throttle.
Like 22 racer also said, don't stop your motor by plugging the exhaust as this WILL blow plugs. Best way IMO is to stop flywheel. Pinching off fuel line works but runs your motor lean all the time, then you try and start it with no fuel in the motor or fuel line which is not good for it either.

Should one tune the same for the long LSN as a short LSN? I have about 1/2 turn in the top of my gen5 7 port with a short LSN and it's still running rich. The bottom is still rich with about 1.5 tuns in with a little over gallon through it and it still has metal pinch. I still have the same plug in it from when I first started to break it in.

What other engine heads are compatible with the GO's? I'm thinking about trying out a NOVA cold weather head on my 7 port for some cold weather racing. http://www.novarcproducts.com/coolweatherheads.html

Also, does anyone have a used and usable Go 2047 lying around that they want to sell?

Which GO would you recomend for an RC8/SC8?
Will be running a Jp-3 pipe.
as for running I like having more low/MID speed/torque as our track only has a small straight but a whole lot of infield and jumps comming out of turns that with my driving style I don't carry the speed through

I was thinking the .21 or .25 5 port.. am I correct in this thought?