Originally Posted by Andrew_Carter (Post 3852847)

2 Gallons down the line and i need a new piston liner :rolleyes::weird:

RB coming my way!

Originally Posted by Rocket42 (Post 3865510)

Swede its hard to say what stock needle settings are on that carb because there was a revision to the LSN. Its best set the idle gap then put the engine on the box and lean the HSN so it clears out on top, and then back it off 1-2 hours. then set the LSN on the box and clear out the engine by revving it. then listen for the engine to come down to idle fairly quickly and cout to 6 and then grab full throttle. you should richen the LSN until it has a slight bog before clearing out after the 6 second count. You will know its rich because you should see some fuel being spit out of the exhaust. After you do that set your idle and you should be close when you get on the track.

Originally Posted by salteen (Post 3865753)

Thank you. It makes the buggy wicked fast. It's been too wet to hit the track and I've only been able to drive it in my leaf infested back yard. It is going to be nasty on the track, no doubt in my mind. I'm heading out there today after work as long as the rain holds off. I'll be posting a report for sure! lol

as I'm still a newb more or less...that's the first I've heard of using o-rings. how do you position them in/on the filter's tube?

Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson (Post 3867643)

find a few orings about a mm smaller than the tube, roll the oring onto the tube past the spot where you have the zip tie and place the tube on the carb, then roll the oring back onto the same place you have the zit tie, this will make a nice air tight seal...do the same for the filter side...

Originally Posted by Rocket42 (Post 3867244)

You would be amazed Rabid, Rody at RB reccomends changing the connecting rod every 1 1/4 gallons, at $50 a piece they are a little cheaper then the nova rossi's, But don't count out Go either We reccomend changing the connecting rod after break in or at 3-4 gallons. I also reccomend changing the wrist pin with the rod since its cheap.

Originally Posted by kenshinmd (Post 3871646)

has anyone used a go .28 engine? It comes with a stock 8mm venturi, is it ok to replace it with a smaller venturi, i've got some spares from my nova engine. tnx

Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson (Post 3871719)

i run the .28 in my MBX5T, and so far im very happy with it...yes you may replase the 8mm venturi...i use a 7mm in mine from a nova, but i have the Go venturi kit on the way...the 7mm helped to tame the bottom end and did not hurt the top end any, it should also help with better fuel run times...

Originally Posted by kenshinmd (Post 3871912)

tnx for the quick reply, another quick question is the 21-7 turbo easy to tune compared with the standard plug version?

Originally Posted by magbarn (Post 3870229)

Listen to Russ' advice on the conrod change. I lost a 5 port after conrod blew at around 5.5 gallons. It also didn't help that I broke in my first GO engine on the starter box without using a heatgun, therefore placing high stress on the conrod on the 1st gallon due to the crazy pinch. The good news is that I can do 2 conrod changes for about the price of one RB conrod.