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here some more pics of my jammin x2 truggy with the .25 6 port engine and wow its silly fast on bottom
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...w/100_0071.jpg http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...w/100_0067.jpg http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...w/100_0068.jpg http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...w/100_0072.jpg |
Originally Posted by v1r killer
(Post 4627405)
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Will, looks good man, good luck this weekend.
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just got my 0801 pipe for my 3pt cant wait to race mbx5r tommorrow :D
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Originally Posted by novenom
(Post 4627658)
just got my 0801 pipe for my 3pt cant wait to race mbx5r tommorrow :D
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:cool:
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0801 pipe
I have seen a few people asking about the new 0801 pipe. I have a new 0801 pipe/header if anyone is interested.
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Originally Posted by malik
(Post 4627256)
Pretty dum huh! I put it back together and ran like 5 tanks through it and by the 3rd one it was making power. I melted around the Idle screw but it is still functional. Got a good deal on a RB carb so I should have it her tomorrow. I will try to get to the track early tomorrow and put as much fuel through her as possible in case I decide to run. Brian it started instantaneously, too bad I got too friendly with the heat gun LOL. What were those settings again for the RB carb?
Hope you get to race :cool: |
i've got about 1/2 gallon through my 7port turbo. At what point is it recommended that I take out the break in shim and leave in just the two thin copper and one silver shim?
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Originally Posted by chucked
(Post 4628091)
i've got about 1/2 gallon through my 7port turbo. At what point is it recommended that I take out the break in shim and leave in just the two thin copper and one silver shim?
I use the PTM method from page 78 of this forum, and took the break in shim out at around 6 litres (about 1.25 gal). Pretty much when you can turn the motor over out of the car by hand and not feel that real tight metal pinch anymore. You also feel it in the performance of the car. It all of a sudden really gets up and goes and starts to rev out a lot more freely - take it out then. As insurance, (because these motors are so tight from new), I have religiously replaced the con rod at 2 gallons on my 3 Go Techs, just to be on the safe side. It would be a shame to wait all that time for the motor to bed in and then have the rod let go :( Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 4628248)
Probably about 1 - 1.5 gallons. It sort of depends on what break in method you used.
I use the PTM method from page 78 of this forum, and took the break in shim out at around 6 litres (about 1.25 gal). I have religiously replaced the con rod at 2 gallons on my 3 Go Techs, Hope this helps. :lol:6 ltrs = 1.5 gallons and Grizz I think you mean you change the rod after the first 2 gallons, not every 2 gallons just so some people out there don't get the wrong idea:cool: |
I thought that's how it read ("at" 2 gal, not "every" 2 gal) :)
"Around" 6 litres - "about" 1.25 gal. Nothing specific, as our friends on here are talking US gallons instead of imperial gallons anyway. My apologies if I confused anyone. Just putting forward my limited experience to try and help out a little. :cool: |
Your post made perfect sense grizz.
Your advise is appreciated. Do I need a temp gauge to break in a Go motor? I plan on following the break in guide on page 78. But dont own a temp gauge. |
Originally Posted by herb99
(Post 4628717)
Your post made perfect sense grizz.
Your advise is appreciated. Do I need a temp gauge to break in a Go motor? I plan on following the break in guide on page 78. But dont own a temp gauge. Every type of motor has min/max/optimum operating temperatures and not knowing the temperature of your motor (nitro or electric) can be very bad. I, personally, recommend you use a temp gauge. |
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Just got an RB S5??(how old is this) carb from a friend...does anyone know if it will fit in my 3 port R before i start removing anything?
It's the old one...fully aluminum with venturies. |
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