Why did you feel the need to create such a device?

I don't think he should have shown that "rod flexin tool"
on here. I'm wondering how many motors will be sent
back with bent rods,broken wrist pins and cracked
pistons after seeing that tool. LOL
I don't need no shtinkin tool, I'll just youse a prybar.LMAO

Bruce,
I think Rex did that because the pin/connecting rod bushing is so tight. Rex knows what he is doing, he won't be bending any connecting rods.

You guy's apparently have never taken apart a new Go motor before. The rod is a pretty tight fit and you can't just get it off with your fingers very easy like most motors. I made the tool so I didn't have to pry or possibly wreck the rod getting it apart. The tool applies an even pressure and takes little effort to get the rod off. As I said I just turned it with my fingers, the bolt was just the easiest thing to use, I would never put a wrench on it.

I have done quite a bit of experimenting on motors in the past year, I tried drilling out crank pins and pressing a new pin in when the crank was worn. The longest I got this to work was 2 races with a 421b, so I'm done trying that. Lately I found a way to grind the crank pin and made a new bushing in the rod. This worked very well this last weekend with an Rb modded crank in a p5x.

Rex

I suppose if you have the tools you can do about anything on these engines.
One question though...if the rod is real tight on the pin especially on a new engine, then by pulling it out it WILL stress some part of the bushing.The rod doesn't come out straight since the upper part of the rod doesn't allow it to.
Doesn't it free up after break in???

I have taken apart my new 3 port race and, yes, the rod is very tight on the crank pin. I felt it best to leave it alone and break in the motor. I'm sure that it will loosen up enough by then.

Not to be a smart ars, how did they get the rod on the
crank pin when they put the motor together? Did they
flex the rod when they put the motor together at the
factory? Is this why I've herd about g-rings falling out?

Guys, i can see the how removing the rod may be alarming to some people, trust me my first GO over a year or so ago was the biggest pain to get off, yes they have extreme tolerence, but after countless GO's the methode is very simple and effertless, and GO's out of my shop have had 0 pin or pin clip failer, and no bent rods LOL. The new GO's yhou can see that the end of the rod journal is tappered more at the outside edge, when done correctly, i can pull it out with my fingers, before i had to use a tool as well, but again no failers, but it didn't look like 22racer's set up, he seems to have the confidence that it's a safe methode, so we should leave it at that.

22racers rod tool should work pretty good, I know after a couple of tanks the rods will come off easy, but on a fresh never run Go engine the rods are extremely difficult to remove, the only reason to remove the rod would be to mod the engine.

Got it today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Chris, thats awesome man, hope you enjoy it:nod:

Dang those things look sweet! This may have been discussed before, but why isn't the case black like the other race models?

Also did you guys see EB Mods is doing Go engines now?

russell, did you get my pm on the 3 port and 2047? thanks man.

Brian yes its getting taken care of.

Russell, any chance to get a .25 down to me before Tuesday?