Too lean on the LSN, when giving throttle with a long idle you hear a hickup.

yeah... but thats the only way i can stop it from dyeing on idle... also the long hanging before dropping to idle is impossible to adjust out..

Do you have another engine from which you can try the carburettor?

Yep Several Rb, GO, Os...

The problem is the fuel. The engine was broke in with low oil lube 10% or less. and you switch brands 12% and still are using less oil lube.. The engine will idle erratic like that as the fuel is for racing not back yard bashing. Buy fuel with 14-18% oil lube and or a plug with a idle bar? The engine is now running lean loss of compression from the fuel oil lube and poor tuning.

Yea ok. You definitely don’t know what you’re talking about. First off there’s not a turbo plug in the world that has an idle bar. Second he has a race engine which is something you are clueless about. Third stop with the oil nonsense because it’s very bad advice. Also how do you know he isn’t gonna race this engine or are you that narcissistic that you just don’t care and it’s your way or the highway. Just because he’s running it in his backyard doesn’t mean he’s just gonna bash it and even so so what the engine isn’t designed to run gobs of oil. Let’s see your nitro engine collection.

Your uneducated advice is getting worse.... what an absolute ballbag.

boomtheroom PLEASE IGNORE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!

@mods - time to sort this guy out.........

Probably because his advice is some BS he had Chat GPT or some other AI create....

All my information is FACT! not BS like all you other bozos keep posting. Breaking in an Engine with low oil lube and the switching oil content again can cause poor engine performance like this.

Correction: your fact! Not the from all others on this forum.

Breaking in an engine only requires 12% oil and that’s not even required for the full break in of the engine.

For REDS motors,TS4 or P4 plug helps with idle. You can't set a carb to a specific idle gap and have it work all the time. The part in the JQ video about balancing the carb is what you are after. Make sure the motor is at least 200* before you start playing with the needles. Sounds like you are fat on the bottom and the idle is high. If you know how to measure squish clearance, check to make sure you are 0.60mm or higher. If not add a shim. Factory setting for the carb are 3 turns opened from the
fully closed position for the HSN and 3 1/2 turns opened from the fully closed position for the LSN. Idle gap of 0.5 is approximate, but will set it self as you tune the motor.

So i got it to idle, seams like its lean on bottom then bogs then raises, then dies all on its own, replaced front bearing as suggested by JQ after showing him my video, maybe try p4 plug? currently running T97 had a t3 same resuly