Team Magic G4
09-18-2010, 08:21 PM
Shouldn't have moved motor back!
Hi
Well i got to have shake down at Wynnum today... I don't believe i should have moved the engine back now. As the screw came out of the clutchbell as and the clutchbell has put i nice curve on the back of 2nd gear as the clutch started to come apart.
I got it all back together and moved the engine back a little and it was a heap better after that.
I still have to work on my setup, i am lacking a bit of steering on entry and the rear is still unstable when trying to get power to the ground. The track is very dusty still... Might try no front sway bar! I tried a Castor change, but then the car pushed mid corner which was worse on some of the other corners!
At least i had a better day and got a couple of tanks done, better then i have been able to do of late!
Thanks Andrew
Well i got to have shake down at Wynnum today... I don't believe i should have moved the engine back now. As the screw came out of the clutchbell as and the clutchbell has put i nice curve on the back of 2nd gear as the clutch started to come apart.
I got it all back together and moved the engine back a little and it was a heap better after that.
I still have to work on my setup, i am lacking a bit of steering on entry and the rear is still unstable when trying to get power to the ground. The track is very dusty still... Might try no front sway bar! I tried a Castor change, but then the car pushed mid corner which was worse on some of the other corners!
At least i had a better day and got a couple of tanks done, better then i have been able to do of late!
Thanks Andrew
09-19-2010, 03:18 AM
Hi
Well i got to have shake down at Wynnum today... I don't believe i should have moved the engine back now. As the screw came out of the clutchbell as and the clutchbell has put i nice curve on the back of 2nd gear as the clutch started to come apart.
I got it all back together and moved the engine back a little and it was a heap better after that.
I still have to work on my setup, i am lacking a bit of steering on entry and the rear is still unstable when trying to get power to the ground. The track is very dusty still... Might try no front sway bar! I tried a Castor change, but then the car pushed mid corner which was worse on some of the other corners!
At least i had a better day and got a couple of tanks done, better then i have been able to do of late!
Thanks Andrew
Well i got to have shake down at Wynnum today... I don't believe i should have moved the engine back now. As the screw came out of the clutchbell as and the clutchbell has put i nice curve on the back of 2nd gear as the clutch started to come apart.
I got it all back together and moved the engine back a little and it was a heap better after that.
I still have to work on my setup, i am lacking a bit of steering on entry and the rear is still unstable when trying to get power to the ground. The track is very dusty still... Might try no front sway bar! I tried a Castor change, but then the car pushed mid corner which was worse on some of the other corners!
At least i had a better day and got a couple of tanks done, better then i have been able to do of late!
Thanks AndrewPS; tried and trusty method to get a good mesh is remove 1st gear and setup 2nd spur 2nd pinion mesh just right and the 1st simply pops on!
09-19-2010, 04:41 AM
Bundy.. I thought I might catch up with you Sat evening... We raced the G4 at bayside and it's a handful. I truely believe the sweetspot is stiff and low and it doesnt lend itself well to Bayside. Also running a locked front so there's way too might front bite, car just didnt look good. Worked only on springs and found purple rear and turquoise front seemed about right.
PS; tried and trusty method to get a good mesh is remove 1st gear and setup 2nd spur 2nd pinion mesh just right and the 1st simply pops on!
PS; tried and trusty method to get a good mesh is remove 1st gear and setup 2nd spur 2nd pinion mesh just right and the 1st simply pops on!
Sorry about last night, i am not ready for racing yet. I am still trying to remember how to drive at this stage.
Currently i have diff in the front with turquoise springs front and rear with the rear sway bar disconnected.
I don't have any softer springs apart from the stock silver ones. I might see if i can use a different brand spring or see if the Serpent shocks will fit as i don't think i will get my Kyosho ones back off Abbey's G4JR!
09-19-2010, 01:20 PM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Hi Harry
Sorry about last night, i am not ready for racing yet. I am still trying to remember how to drive at this stage.
Currently i have diff in the front with turquoise springs front and rear with the rear sway bar disconnected.
I don't have any softer springs apart from the stock silver ones. I might see if i can use a different brand spring or see if the Serpent shocks will fit as i don't think i will get my Kyosho ones back off Abbey's G4JR!
Sorry about last night, i am not ready for racing yet. I am still trying to remember how to drive at this stage.
Currently i have diff in the front with turquoise springs front and rear with the rear sway bar disconnected.
I don't have any softer springs apart from the stock silver ones. I might see if i can use a different brand spring or see if the Serpent shocks will fit as i don't think i will get my Kyosho ones back off Abbey's G4JR!
Also; Bayside gets very dusty when it's not being raced on, and both our car and Taynton's car were sliding around like they were on ice early in the afternoon before we had gone around for about 50 laps. This nearly always the situation; so it is best to practice with someone else, or go there when there are people there so you don't have to do all the cleaning up laps by yourself, and you really need 150 laps or more before the traction is good.
Many thanks to Harry for the G4 tank, it works so well in the S3 EVO. Here is the picture of it:
The old RTR tank wouldn't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine in tune. You should have seen how thin the fuel hoses were. Chance was a bit slow on Saturday, but it had nothing to do with the car; just one of those day when he wasn't driving very well.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Last edited by Chickentrader; 09-19-2010 at 01:38 PM.
09-20-2010, 12:34 AM
G4 Tank Lid
See if you can get a set of Mugen purple rears for Bayside. They have a fairly soft 1.6 mm wire with 6 coils, and that's what most of the fast drivers are using at this track regardless of the brand of car. More coils on the springs seems to work best there. Both our RRR and S3 EVO seem to work best with that every time we go there, and we swear by them. Use 50 (500) or slightly ligher shock oil with those springs, heavier shock oil will restrict the damping too much. Keep rear roll bar disconnected, it's that bumpy that you need the rear wheels to work independently, but you could try to connect them if you want to see the difference.
Also; Bayside gets very dusty when it's not being raced on, and both our car and Taynton's car were sliding around like they were on ice early in the afternoon before we had gone around for about 50 laps. This nearly always the situation; so it is best to practice with someone else, or go there when there are people there so you don't have to do all the cleaning up laps by yourself, and you really need 150 laps or more before the traction is good.
Many thanks to Harry for the G4 tank, it works so well in the S3 EVO. Here is the picture of it:
The old RTR tank wouldn't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine in tune. You should have seen how thin the fuel hoses were. Chance was a bit slow on Saturday, but it had nothing to do with the car; just one of those day when he wasn't driving very well.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Also; Bayside gets very dusty when it's not being raced on, and both our car and Taynton's car were sliding around like they were on ice early in the afternoon before we had gone around for about 50 laps. This nearly always the situation; so it is best to practice with someone else, or go there when there are people there so you don't have to do all the cleaning up laps by yourself, and you really need 150 laps or more before the traction is good.
Many thanks to Harry for the G4 tank, it works so well in the S3 EVO. Here is the picture of it:
The old RTR tank wouldn't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine in tune. You should have seen how thin the fuel hoses were. Chance was a bit slow on Saturday, but it had nothing to do with the car; just one of those day when he wasn't driving very well.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
FYI: For those who want to know how to change the lid on one, all you need is a 3/32th EDS tip. The rear pin is actually a tube, you have to load up the spring and push the EDS 3/32nd thru the whole the other way as to act as a guide for the pin/tube then you chase the EDS with the pin and you'll feel the spring tension come on as you push the pin over to the other side using the EDS to straighten the angle of attack and compress the spring.
Took me a while to work it out but real easy to do
09-20-2010, 03:51 AM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
No problems for the tank Lars!
FYI: For those who want to know how to change the lid on one, all you need is a 3/32th EDS tip. The rear pin is actually a tube, you have to load up the spring and push the EDS 3/32nd thru the whole the other way as to act as a guide for the pin/tube then you chase the EDS with the pin and you'll feel the spring tension come on as you push the pin over to the other side using the EDS to straighten the angle of attack and compress the spring.
Took me a while to work it out but real easy to do
FYI: For those who want to know how to change the lid on one, all you need is a 3/32th EDS tip. The rear pin is actually a tube, you have to load up the spring and push the EDS 3/32nd thru the whole the other way as to act as a guide for the pin/tube then you chase the EDS with the pin and you'll feel the spring tension come on as you push the pin over to the other side using the EDS to straighten the angle of attack and compress the spring.
Took me a while to work it out but real easy to do
Kindest regards,
Lars.
09-20-2010, 04:11 AM
See if you can get a set of Mugen purple rears for Bayside. They have a fairly soft 1.6 mm wire with 6 coils, and that's what most of the fast drivers are using at this track regardless of the brand of car. More coils on the springs seems to work best there. Both our RRR and S3 EVO seem to work best with that every time we go there, and we swear by them. Use 50 (500) or slightly ligher shock oil with those springs, heavier shock oil will restrict the damping too much. Keep rear roll bar disconnected, it's that bumpy that you need the rear wheels to work independently, but you could try to connect them if you want to see the difference.
Also; Bayside gets very dusty when it's not being raced on, and both our car and Taynton's car were sliding around like they were on ice early in the afternoon before we had gone around for about 50 laps. This nearly always the situation; so it is best to practice with someone else, or go there when there are people there so you don't have to do all the cleaning up laps by yourself, and you really need 150 laps or more before the traction is good.
Many thanks to Harry for the G4 tank, it works so well in the S3 EVO. Here is the picture of it:
The old RTR tank wouldn't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine in tune. You should have seen how thin the fuel hoses were. Chance was a bit slow on Saturday, but it had nothing to do with the car; just one of those day when he wasn't driving very well.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Also; Bayside gets very dusty when it's not being raced on, and both our car and Taynton's car were sliding around like they were on ice early in the afternoon before we had gone around for about 50 laps. This nearly always the situation; so it is best to practice with someone else, or go there when there are people there so you don't have to do all the cleaning up laps by yourself, and you really need 150 laps or more before the traction is good.
Many thanks to Harry for the G4 tank, it works so well in the S3 EVO. Here is the picture of it:
The old RTR tank wouldn't deliver enough fuel to keep the engine in tune. You should have seen how thin the fuel hoses were. Chance was a bit slow on Saturday, but it had nothing to do with the car; just one of those day when he wasn't driving very well.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
Lars:
Thanks for tips, haven't done any competitive R/C for a few years now... So everything is greatly appreciated!
10-01-2010, 04:34 AM
Hi.I have a little review of my runs with the G4JR,it's now half a year since break in and every run i would struggle for rear on-power traction,while the front was pretty much dialed.First changed to GRP foams,a litlle more traction and overall grip.Cleaned and lightly relubed the pivot balls,there's some minor rubbing still but more time and will smooth out.It did not made traction any better but it is more controllable and doesn't veer to one side on acceleration and braking.Next i rebuild the shocks,both front and rear.Front stock 60wt and rear changed for 45wt and again improved everything except on-power traction 
.Took a look into the rear diff and the grease was cooked,20000 there now.Then the receiver was acting weird,at more than 1/3 of throttle it would lock full throttle and no steering,a couple flips later the only damage was the body and a bent cooling fin 
.Things were not bright so i took the receiver out and installed a futaba 162je(it's marginally smaller than the stock one)and things were back to normal.Then tried the G4RS'08 rear setup and lost the twitchyness,well i thought that should try reducing front caster,rear camber and height.While the camber and caster did little to improve traction the 1mm reduction on height had a huge difference!Things were starting to fall in place.Then reinstalled the GRP's,reset camber to G4RS'08 stock setup and WOW hit a nail in the head!Now it's hard to spin even on purpose.It was yesterday and people came to me dazzled with the speed the little badboy could do.It was a show,the show i couldn't taste in more than a year(about the time when i retired the Inferno).I left the parking lot(well it's not really a parking lot,it is more a 10m x 60m tarmac rectangle with a half-pipe and skate jumps here and there,managed to avoid all)with a huge smile,everybody had a nice time,me driving the reborn G4JR and the audience seeing a nitro powered RC car that blew their minds 
.Sorry for the lenghty review,hope it's useful for someone and i apologize if something it's not clearly understandable 
.
Have fun!
.Took a look into the rear diff and the grease was cooked,20000 there now.Then the receiver was acting weird,at more than 1/3 of throttle it would lock full throttle and no steering,a couple flips later the only damage was the body and a bent cooling fin .Things were not bright so i took the receiver out and installed a futaba 162je(it's marginally smaller than the stock one)and things were back to normal.Then tried the G4RS'08 rear setup and lost the twitchyness,well i thought that should try reducing front caster,rear camber and height.While the camber and caster did little to improve traction the 1mm reduction on height had a huge difference!Things were starting to fall in place.Then reinstalled the GRP's,reset camber to G4RS'08 stock setup and WOW hit a nail in the head!Now it's hard to spin even on purpose.It was yesterday and people came to me dazzled with the speed the little badboy could do.It was a show,the show i couldn't taste in more than a year(about the time when i retired the Inferno).I left the parking lot(well it's not really a parking lot,it is more a 10m x 60m tarmac rectangle with a half-pipe and skate jumps here and there,managed to avoid all)with a huge smile,everybody had a nice time,me driving the reborn G4JR and the audience seeing a nitro powered RC car that blew their minds .Sorry for the lenghty review,hope it's useful for someone and i apologize if something it's not clearly understandable .Have fun!
10-01-2010, 03:28 PM
Hi.I have a little review of my runs with the G4JR,it's now half a year since break in and every run i would struggle for rear on-power traction,while the front was pretty much dialed.First changed to GRP foams,a litlle more traction and overall grip.Cleaned and lightly relubed the pivot balls,there's some minor rubbing still but more time and will smooth out.It did not made traction any better but it is more controllable and doesn't veer to one side on acceleration and braking.Next i rebuild the shocks,both front and rear.Front stock 60wt and rear changed for 45wt and again improved everything except on-power traction .Took a look into the rear diff and the grease was cooked,20000 there now.Then the receiver was acting weird,at more than 1/3 of throttle it would lock full throttle and no steering,a couple flips later the only damage was the body and a bent cooling fin .Things were not bright so i took the receiver out and installed a futaba 162je(it's marginally smaller than the stock one)and things were back to normal.Then tried the G4RS'08 rear setup and lost the twitchyness,well i thought that should try reducing front caster,rear camber and height.While the camber and caster did little to improve traction the 1mm reduction on height had a huge difference!Things were starting to fall in place.Then reinstalled the GRP's,reset camber to G4RS'08 stock setup and WOW hit a nail in the head!Now it's hard to spin even on purpose.It was yesterday and people came to me dazzled with the speed the little badboy could do.It was a show,the show i couldn't taste in more than a year(about the time when i retired the Inferno).I left the parking lot(well it's not really a parking lot,it is more a 10m x 60m tarmac rectangle with a half-pipe and skate jumps here and there,managed to avoid all)with a huge smile,everybody had a nice time,me driving the reborn G4JR and the audience seeing a nitro powered RC car that blew their minds .Sorry for the lenghty review,hope it's useful for someone and i apologize if something it's not clearly understandable .
Have fun!
.Took a look into the rear diff and the grease was cooked,20000 there now.Then the receiver was acting weird,at more than 1/3 of throttle it would lock full throttle and no steering,a couple flips later the only damage was the body and a bent cooling fin .Things were not bright so i took the receiver out and installed a futaba 162je(it's marginally smaller than the stock one)and things were back to normal.Then tried the G4RS'08 rear setup and lost the twitchyness,well i thought that should try reducing front caster,rear camber and height.While the camber and caster did little to improve traction the 1mm reduction on height had a huge difference!Things were starting to fall in place.Then reinstalled the GRP's,reset camber to G4RS'08 stock setup and WOW hit a nail in the head!Now it's hard to spin even on purpose.It was yesterday and people came to me dazzled with the speed the little badboy could do.It was a show,the show i couldn't taste in more than a year(about the time when i retired the Inferno).I left the parking lot(well it's not really a parking lot,it is more a 10m x 60m tarmac rectangle with a half-pipe and skate jumps here and there,managed to avoid all)with a huge smile,everybody had a nice time,me driving the reborn G4JR and the audience seeing a nitro powered RC car that blew their minds .Sorry for the lenghty review,hope it's useful for someone and i apologize if something it's not clearly understandable .Have fun!
Good review... seems like you found the sweet spot
10-04-2010, 03:45 AM
Thanks blis,yup it felt like spot on,sensitive without being twitchy and the rear rotated without spining or losing much speed when requested,makes quick work of hairpins.I bought a new steering servo,had to use another thinner servo arm and trim the servo case because the steering linkage touched there,it's fine now.The servo is a Graupner 706BB digital 0.9 transit time with 10kg.cm,should be enough.
Couldn't reach the sweet spot without all your helpful posts,just remember stiff & low
Couldn't reach the sweet spot without all your helpful posts,just remember stiff & low
12-07-2010, 08:14 AM
So Ive started a build on a G4S from a bigolbagofparts and I'd like to know which steering system is a better bet for a first time nitro on road. I have the choice of building the sliding steering or a single bellcrank....
Thoughts anyone? Is there a performance difference between the 2?
Thanks in advance,
D.
Thoughts anyone? Is there a performance difference between the 2?
Thanks in advance,
D.
12-07-2010, 02:11 PM
So Ive started a build on a G4S from a bigolbagofparts and I'd like to know which steering system is a better bet for a first time nitro on road. I have the choice of building the sliding steering or a single bellcrank....
Thoughts anyone? Is there a performance difference between the 2?
Thanks in advance,
D.
Thoughts anyone? Is there a performance difference between the 2?
Thanks in advance,
D.
The rack steering is ok but doesnt offer the ackerman adjustment of the bell system, the rack also makes the front bulkhead more difficult to work on if needing a belt change etc.
If you need any spare parts, just ask as we've pulled down the Le Mans and have lots and lots of 2nd hand spares.
Anyone needing old Le Mans series parts, just ask.
12-07-2010, 02:28 PM
thanks for that...i appreiciate the info.
pm'ed about some parts
pm'ed about some parts
01-19-2011, 02:13 PM
Hey guys
I have a little problem, or maybe its a big problem...
I can't find anyone who sells the special batterypack for the G4, my last pack broke last season so i need a new pack, but i really don't want one more of those shitty batterypacks.
I was wondering if anyone here know how to use a different type of batterypack.
I would really like to fit a Life battery in the car, for less weight and better performance.
Have anyone fitted the G4 with a life flat pack or hump?. I know it can be done but i want it to look nice as well, otherwise i could just take a hump pack and some double sided tape and put it on the front bumper or something crazy like that...
If no one has an idea i will try figuring it out myself some how. Will post results when that happens. But please, all ideas are welcome
I have a little problem, or maybe its a big problem...
I can't find anyone who sells the special batterypack for the G4, my last pack broke last season so i need a new pack, but i really don't want one more of those shitty batterypacks.
I was wondering if anyone here know how to use a different type of batterypack.
I would really like to fit a Life battery in the car, for less weight and better performance.
Have anyone fitted the G4 with a life flat pack or hump?. I know it can be done but i want it to look nice as well, otherwise i could just take a hump pack and some double sided tape and put it on the front bumper or something crazy like that...
If no one has an idea i will try figuring it out myself some how. Will post results when that happens. But please, all ideas are welcome
01-19-2011, 03:29 PM
battery
if you go to the g4rs09 page theres a nice life pack info and where they got them. you will have to find it..i'd start 10 pages back. real good info there.