Team Magic G4
#5401
Tech Rookie
Hello,
Can you say to me if the arm superior of G4 is higher with the part K-Factory K14124 compared to the cell origin?
Thank you
Can you say to me if the arm superior of G4 is higher with the part K-Factory K14124 compared to the cell origin?
Thank you
#5402
[QUOTE=Tof]Hello,
Hi Tof,
Welcome.
Yes the part K14124 are very good.
It gives easier access to differential and you can adjust roll centres at the front.
Menace
Hi Tof,
Welcome.
Yes the part K14124 are very good.
It gives easier access to differential and you can adjust roll centres at the front.
Menace
#5403
Tech Rookie
This part give more steering?
#5404
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
I had the same problem first time using it.
You can put 1-2 drops of CA Glue in the thread and screw it back. Never had the problem anymore till now.
Another tip, use XRAY ballstud (with 2mm hex hole at the head) and XRAY ballstud (I prefer the closed one then rub the head so there is enough hole for 2mm hex screwdriver. So next time when you have the same problem, just grab the screwdriver and fix it while your engine still on.
You can put 1-2 drops of CA Glue in the thread and screw it back. Never had the problem anymore till now.
Another tip, use XRAY ballstud (with 2mm hex hole at the head) and XRAY ballstud (I prefer the closed one then rub the head so there is enough hole for 2mm hex screwdriver. So next time when you have the same problem, just grab the screwdriver and fix it while your engine still on.
#5405
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
I am building my 2nd G4S with it right now. My LHS already have 10 sets of this in the rack. .
#5406
Originally Posted by Z00M
Well done on the racing Serpentd. Maybe 1 car would have been a better option for first time out...but where would the fun be in that!! If I had to wait for the snow to melt to go racing, I'd be racing everything in sight as well.
#5407
Hey serpentd, were u down in colo springs this weekend? if so, we met. i'm one of the guys with the g4...
#5408
Originally Posted by gansei
serpentD.. sorry for your starting trouble.
But you finished 2nd position, i think your racing skill was good..
i wish that your race skill show in Next Race.
good luck to you..
But you finished 2nd position, i think your racing skill was good..
i wish that your race skill show in Next Race.
good luck to you..
Thanks Gansie! I had my gremlins to work out which is normal for a new car. Needed to find out all the issues that would need to be addressed, which is exactly what happened. By the way...Dude, you ROCK!!! You had an awesome race! And your a TV star. I was very impressed with the sportmanship out there on the track. You don't always see it at that level, very impressive. You ran a great race my friend and we are all VERY PROUD of you! You did the G4S crew good my friend. Enjoy your success, you earned it my friend! Talk soon bro! Later.
#5409
Originally Posted by lonepalm4
Hey serpentd, were u down in colo springs this weekend? if so, we met. i'm one of the guys with the g4...
#5410
Originally Posted by British Menace
The "CV" rear set up?
Do you mean the quick change/release wheel hubs/CV?
I don't have them.....yet but I do have the "flash point" rear end on now. Much better. You can cut back a little on static camber setting once you have this on.
How was your weekend Frankie?
Hey Serpentd.
Where are you racing next and when. I'm on the Illinois/Iowa boarder and I'm looking to make a trip to do some racing.
I would be happy to take some of that work load off you next time.......even if it's only to marshall for you so as you can work on the machine.
Menace
Do you mean the quick change/release wheel hubs/CV?
I don't have them.....yet but I do have the "flash point" rear end on now. Much better. You can cut back a little on static camber setting once you have this on.
How was your weekend Frankie?
Hey Serpentd.
Where are you racing next and when. I'm on the Illinois/Iowa boarder and I'm looking to make a trip to do some racing.
I would be happy to take some of that work load off you next time.......even if it's only to marshall for you so as you can work on the machine.
Menace
#5411
Sorry for all the posts guys. But I do want to thank everyone for there support and all. It won't take me long to get this car down. After I had an ok set up, it was very easy to drive, just needed that steering is all. I will figure out my engine situation and all as well. So thank you very much guys for everything. This crew truley does kick ass!!!!
#5412
.
Originally Posted by revo523
serpentd check out what i bought today..... yeahhhh!
now what paint do you recommend for me to start with?
any advice?im a newb!
now what paint do you recommend for me to start with?
any advice?im a newb!
#5413
Originally Posted by Tof
This part give more steering?
It also looks very cooool
#5414
Originally Posted by revo523
.
Anyway, I'm way stoked that you took the plunge into airbrush. You will learn to love it! OK, i'm guessing that you are going to be using propellant rather then a compressor, which is totally fine. However, I have never used propellant so I'm not sure on the output pressure (PSI) that it's rated. Why is this important, because if you use the waterbase paint, you need minimum of 50psi. I usually use about 70psi when I work with this paint. However, with lacquer, you only want about 25-30psi. Even if the propellant can reach 70 psi, you will go through it faster then to 25 psi. Now This is personal preferance on the type of paint but I still like the lacquer. But that might be because I have used it for almost 10 years and just started with the water base like the Parma Faskolor stuff. You airbrush should be capable to spray both types of paint. The tip and needle size needs to be a medium size for the water base. Medium or extra fine for the lacquer. Usually air brushes like your new one come standard wit a general perpose time that is medium, so you should be good regardless of the type of paint you use. I tried to look on the net for an output rating on propellants but couldn't find anything, but I think you will be fine with either paint.
If you go with the waterbase, you don't need to reduce it (thin it down) but with lacquer you do. And you simply use lacquer thinner for this, not paint thinner though. Paint thinner is for enamels like for plastic models. K.
I would recommend the lacquer, but cleanup needs to be done with the thinner. Water base paint, all you need for cleanup is warm tap water. You might want to get a bottle of say red or black of each type of paint to see what you like more. You can use these to practice with on some white poster board. When working with lacquer paint, the more opaque colors need more thinner in them then say flourescent and transluscent colors, which take little to no thinning at all. You can tell if you need to thin more because you will get cob webs on the edges of you work. I usually start with about a 40/60 mixture for the opaque colors like black, white, blue, red, yellow etc. 40% thinner and 60% paint. However with black and white I go 50/50. You'll get the hang of it bro. It might sound like a lot right now, but it is actually quite simple. You can actually just mix the paint right in the paint cup or bottle on the airbrush depending on what you use. I use those little paint cups most of the time.
So all in all, you might want to try both types of paint before you commit to one type and see what you prefer. I could go on forever, but this should be a good start. If you buy lacquer thinner, goto a hardware store and buy a quart for 6 or 7 bucks in stead of the small jars for 5 bucks at the hobby store. If you have any questions ANYTIME, let me know and I will help you every step of the way bro. I know your anctious to try your new gun out. I would be! So go get some paint and practice on some poster board. A good way to practice is to make straight lines like 6 to 12 inches long side by side. Practice going at different speeds and different distances from your poster board or cardboard. Whatever you use. I like the whit poster board because it give you great feedback. Like when you start a line, you want to have your hand moving before you push the trigger on the airbrush, also you want to keep your hand moving when you let off the trigger. If you don't you will end up with round dots at the beginning and end of your lines. You always keep your hand moving. This is a BIGGY!!!!
Like I said, I could keep going on and on but I hope this helped enough to get you started. Let me know if you need advice on anything. Good luck dude, and keep me/us posted on your progress here. Talk soon my friend! Later.
#5415
Thanks serpentd for the help. The only other thing i can think of that i want to know about is the liquid paint mask, any input?
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, I'm so sorry for the late responce! It's wierd, I was just on my way home from work and remembered that you got your airbrush. I said to myself, I need to find that post and replly to help dude out! So I was just thinking of you my friend.
Anyway, I'm way stoked that you took the plunge into airbrush. You will learn to love it! OK, i'm guessing that you are going to be using propellant rather then a compressor, which is totally fine. However, I have never used propellant so I'm not sure on the output pressure (PSI) that it's rated. Why is this important, because if you use the waterbase paint, you need minimum of 50psi. I usually use about 70psi when I work with this paint. However, with lacquer, you only want about 25-30psi. Even if the propellant can reach 70 psi, you will go through it faster then to 25 psi. Now This is personal preferance on the type of paint but I still like the lacquer. But that might be because I have used it for almost 10 years and just started with the water base like the Parma Faskolor stuff. You airbrush should be capable to spray both types of paint. The tip and needle size needs to be a medium size for the water base. Medium or extra fine for the lacquer. Usually air brushes like your new one come standard wit a general perpose time that is medium, so you should be good regardless of the type of paint you use. I tried to look on the net for an output rating on propellants but couldn't find anything, but I think you will be fine with either paint.
If you go with the waterbase, you don't need to reduce it (thin it down) but with lacquer you do. And you simply use lacquer thinner for this, not paint thinner though. Paint thinner is for enamels like for plastic models. K.
I would recommend the lacquer, but cleanup needs to be done with the thinner. Water base paint, all you need for cleanup is warm tap water. You might want to get a bottle of say red or black of each type of paint to see what you like more. You can use these to practice with on some white poster board. When working with lacquer paint, the more opaque colors need more thinner in them then say flourescent and transluscent colors, which take little to no thinning at all. You can tell if you need to thin more because you will get cob webs on the edges of you work. I usually start with about a 40/60 mixture for the opaque colors like black, white, blue, red, yellow etc. 40% thinner and 60% paint. However with black and white I go 50/50. You'll get the hang of it bro. It might sound like a lot right now, but it is actually quite simple. You can actually just mix the paint right in the paint cup or bottle on the airbrush depending on what you use. I use those little paint cups most of the time.
So all in all, you might want to try both types of paint before you commit to one type and see what you prefer. I could go on forever, but this should be a good start. If you buy lacquer thinner, goto a hardware store and buy a quart for 6 or 7 bucks in stead of the small jars for 5 bucks at the hobby store. If you have any questions ANYTIME, let me know and I will help you every step of the way bro. I know your anctious to try your new gun out. I would be! So go get some paint and practice on some poster board. A good way to practice is to make straight lines like 6 to 12 inches long side by side. Practice going at different speeds and different distances from your poster board or cardboard. Whatever you use. I like the whit poster board because it give you great feedback. Like when you start a line, you want to have your hand moving before you push the trigger on the airbrush, also you want to keep your hand moving when you let off the trigger. If you don't you will end up with round dots at the beginning and end of your lines. You always keep your hand moving. This is a BIGGY!!!!
Like I said, I could keep going on and on but I hope this helped enough to get you started. Let me know if you need advice on anything. Good luck dude, and keep me/us posted on your progress here. Talk soon my friend! Later.
Anyway, I'm way stoked that you took the plunge into airbrush. You will learn to love it! OK, i'm guessing that you are going to be using propellant rather then a compressor, which is totally fine. However, I have never used propellant so I'm not sure on the output pressure (PSI) that it's rated. Why is this important, because if you use the waterbase paint, you need minimum of 50psi. I usually use about 70psi when I work with this paint. However, with lacquer, you only want about 25-30psi. Even if the propellant can reach 70 psi, you will go through it faster then to 25 psi. Now This is personal preferance on the type of paint but I still like the lacquer. But that might be because I have used it for almost 10 years and just started with the water base like the Parma Faskolor stuff. You airbrush should be capable to spray both types of paint. The tip and needle size needs to be a medium size for the water base. Medium or extra fine for the lacquer. Usually air brushes like your new one come standard wit a general perpose time that is medium, so you should be good regardless of the type of paint you use. I tried to look on the net for an output rating on propellants but couldn't find anything, but I think you will be fine with either paint.
If you go with the waterbase, you don't need to reduce it (thin it down) but with lacquer you do. And you simply use lacquer thinner for this, not paint thinner though. Paint thinner is for enamels like for plastic models. K.
I would recommend the lacquer, but cleanup needs to be done with the thinner. Water base paint, all you need for cleanup is warm tap water. You might want to get a bottle of say red or black of each type of paint to see what you like more. You can use these to practice with on some white poster board. When working with lacquer paint, the more opaque colors need more thinner in them then say flourescent and transluscent colors, which take little to no thinning at all. You can tell if you need to thin more because you will get cob webs on the edges of you work. I usually start with about a 40/60 mixture for the opaque colors like black, white, blue, red, yellow etc. 40% thinner and 60% paint. However with black and white I go 50/50. You'll get the hang of it bro. It might sound like a lot right now, but it is actually quite simple. You can actually just mix the paint right in the paint cup or bottle on the airbrush depending on what you use. I use those little paint cups most of the time.
So all in all, you might want to try both types of paint before you commit to one type and see what you prefer. I could go on forever, but this should be a good start. If you buy lacquer thinner, goto a hardware store and buy a quart for 6 or 7 bucks in stead of the small jars for 5 bucks at the hobby store. If you have any questions ANYTIME, let me know and I will help you every step of the way bro. I know your anctious to try your new gun out. I would be! So go get some paint and practice on some poster board. A good way to practice is to make straight lines like 6 to 12 inches long side by side. Practice going at different speeds and different distances from your poster board or cardboard. Whatever you use. I like the whit poster board because it give you great feedback. Like when you start a line, you want to have your hand moving before you push the trigger on the airbrush, also you want to keep your hand moving when you let off the trigger. If you don't you will end up with round dots at the beginning and end of your lines. You always keep your hand moving. This is a BIGGY!!!!
Like I said, I could keep going on and on but I hope this helped enough to get you started. Let me know if you need advice on anything. Good luck dude, and keep me/us posted on your progress here. Talk soon my friend! Later.