Serpentd

Dude, yes I have some input for you. You want to try and find some Bob Dively liquid mask. Try and get a larger bottle like the 16oz. It will run you about $15 dollars, but can do many bodies with it. Anyway, use a 1" soft paint brush of medium quality...like a $3-4 dollar brush. Just don't use those .79 cent cheap ones. Then the very most important thing is to do 3 (THREE) medium coats letting it dry between each coat. I usually set the body in front of one of those small personal heaters to speed dry time. Or you could use a hair dryer. Don't try and get away with 2 heavy coats, you will regreat it when it's time to start peeling it of. It will peel off in about 10,000 little pieces. Just make sure you shake it good for about 10 seconds or so and you'll be ready. Make sure to put the cap back on immediately after each coat, or it can start to get chuncky after a bit of time. Last thing is try and make the coats smooth, trying to avoid thick sections. the one place it doesn't hurt to put on a bit thicker is where the spoiler mounts to the body. You know, inside the crevise on the rear of the car. It will peel out much easier. When you do get ready to cut out your design, be careful to not use too much pressure with your exacto knife. Especially with a new blade. If you over score the body, it has a higher risk of breaking there. So just be on the soft side, the masking is easy to cut through. So not too much pressure. I think that just about covers it.

I usually draw my scheme out and will lable the differnent sections of the colors I want. Use a permanent marker because with all the handling of the body, the dry erase stuff wipes off pretty easy, If you need to remove your marks, just use a paper towel and some rubbing alcohol. Sometimes I will use different color markers too for the different lines to get an idea of how it will look. It changes the perspective a bit. When I'm done with the drawing, I will go back and cut out EVERY line. If you don't, the overspray an all will cover up your lines and make it hard to see where to cut. You can hold the body up to the light to see through it if you need to. A great trick to use to get nice straight or consistant lines with the exacto knife is to lay the knife down low on the back so it's more flat rather then cutting with it more vertical like a pencil. It will give you a lot more control. The only time I use the knife more upright is when I am doing small detail work and need to cut left and right ( back and forth ) a lot. Also, practice twisting the knife in your had to start making any curve lines. Again, more control. It's sort of like riding a motorcycle where if you lean left you turn right, Twisting just makes it easier to handle. Well bro, I hope this all makes good sence. Just be patient. That is the most important rule in all painting!

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to try and give you as many tips possible that will help you out. Wasn't sure if you already knew this stuff, but wanted you to know all my little secrets. And at this point, you have a lot of them. But I have TONS more when it comes to painting. So ask away bro with any questions. I'll be here to help bro!. Good luck and let me know how it all goes. I will post a few pics for you to check out. If I find and post my Grim Reaper body I did about 7 years ago or so, I used a $30 dollar air brush. So your air brush has the potential to do this type of work. Well, as usuall another post from hell But everyone knows I like to detailed.

PS, check out the G4S gallery soon too, I am going to post the body that I finished last week. Not the best, but I was doing some experimental crap on it and still trying to get familiar with the waterbase stuff. I still like the lacquer more though. K bro, talk soon...LATER!

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Gansei master - its great to see footage of fellow G4S drivers, i found the video entertaing, hey one question can i use your pitman - he was so fast in fuel stop awesome effort and i did notice you taking iit easy in the end!

The track looked a bit slippery after the main straight going through the little chicane onto pitlane straight!!!

Plus great friendship of driver to make mistake plus offer lead again, sometimes i wish we had the same here in Adelaide - Mmmh one day ill do this if i make mistake, to show respect!

Great video, and very well done!!!

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Serpentd thanks a hole bunch dude!! Yo should right a book. Im going today to look for the paint and stuff wis me luck.

vc05hdt

Serpentd, the work you have shown paintwise is fantastic! A lot of time gone into Grim Reaper.Were you married at the time?

revo523

iTrader: (8)

whats a good starter box for my g4 besides the team magic?

Serpentd

Dude, thanks!. Yes I was married. But I kept painting and racing, a year after that Grim Reaper body I was single again!

Serpentd

Dude, the Team Magic is great, but the rubber they use on the wheel SUCKS!
Actually, the Ofna box is definitely worth looking into. I also love the Serpent box, but not sure if they make a "universal" mount for it. I'm sure they do. Wow dude, there are sooo many boxes out there, I'm not sure which one to recommend 100%. I have like 7 or 8 boxes for different cars, off and on road. But my two favorites I think would be the Ofna and Serpent. Like I said, the Team Magic is nice, but the rubber wheel wears out pretty fast. For starters, I would look into Ofna. But that's my opinion, maybe some other guys have some good insight. My Ofna and Serpent boxes have lasted for 8-10 years with TONS of hours on them and have never had to replace a part. I do however use a Torque start box by Dynamite hooked up to a car battery when I need to breakin motors. This is the type of box that has the 1 large motor that sticks out the side rather then the two 540 motors to make the box more compact. The boxes with 1 large motor has more power in my opinion, not much...but it can take more abuse then the compact starter boxes. Less chance of burning out the motor when you have a stubborn engine that doesn't want to start.

Another thing is I prefer using 2 stick pack batteries compared to the 12 volt gel cell. I can charge the stick packs easier at the track for this reason. Plus this will give you over 14 volts for more power and speed to the wheel. I do know a lot of guys that prefer the 12volt gel cell. It's definately cheaper, but it's also heavier. So it all depends on your personal preference. Good luck bro, and ask if you have any other questions. Later.

revo523

iTrader: (8)

well i decided on the ofna#10258 any comments?

Serpentd

Great box and will last forever!! Great choice dude!!!

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

Ofna makes great starter boxes many to choose from.

dnitro

Ofna has one that has 12V battery and external plugs so you can plug in an option glow igniter ($12). I don't have to worry about igniters being charged or not, and don't have to look for it cuz its always attached to the starter box. I charge the 12V overnight and can get two weekends worth of use out of it.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Currently i use the X5 Turbo Team Magic Starter BOX, yeah yeah i know its TM product but it so pretty with all the colours LOL!

Seems to work fine on this end, just bought a brand new 12V battery for the sucker and one thing i have noticed in the starter box its easy to setup, bit of a poo design to take 12v out as you really need to take the front section off!

Besides that has options to place jacks out the back for external use such as tire truers etc!!!



Hey SerpantD - questions what happens to the rubber wheel? anything MMmmmwwwaaa should know?

cheers Bro

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

how about d hippo series?

G4S'er

The X5 turbo 2 is probably without question the best on road or off road box on the market. If you are having troubles with the rubber on the smaller older version, need to go tothe new version Stk# 111149! Problem solved, again the best box on the market! lol Me prejudice????

Serpentd

Yo HODAK...Here is your answer bro. Because I have the older smaller version, So I stand corrected. Funny thing is I just bought this newer rubber wheel for my TM box #111149! I just got the wheel last week and haven't installed it yet. What the deal was before is the rubber was VERY soft, it worked great as I mentioned that I love this starter box. But with the softer (Older) rubber wheel, it would just slowly shred off the rubber. And it actually wasn't that slow on the shred part. I have only used this TM box like 10 times (10 starts, not 10 races) and the wheel is almost gone. No more rubber. I might be exagerating a bit, but not too much. This is why I ordered the newer wheel that Sam just mentioned. So it sounds as though they fixed the only issue I noticed with the box. So you are good to go my friend! And with this being the case, I would highly recommend the TM starter box! I don't have the X5 yet, but I will SOON!!!!

Yo Sam, Thanks for the heads up on that starter wheel. I ordered it from you just last week just as a replacement, but had no clue that it was a better wheel then the original. Thank you bro! And noooo, I don't think you have a prejudice or bias bone in your body! By the way Sam, Thank you tons for your continued service. You ROCK DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeah, Hodak...I talked to the pilot, but I don't think your little package will show up till next week. I just got it out yesterday (Tuesday) for me. So keep me posted when those two things arrive. Cool dude! Miss talking with you and all. Hope things are going cool! Thanks tons for the setup sheet! I just went through like 5 of my motors, now installing clutches on them. Well three of them anyway. Then I need to disasemble the mini beast and go through the entire car and make the changes you noted. Plus a few more that I thought of. I still can't get over how bad the diffs leak though. So I plan on a thorough inspection upon dissasembly. Glad to hear your bro got his car and all. Is it all assembled yet?? Keep me/us posted bro!!! Since he doesn't seem to do the forum yet, you need to do that for him bro. Cool dude, will talk soon! LATER!