Team Magic G4
#3662
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by itchy b
Great stuff Kodak
What's with everyone missing the dogleg section to take a shortcut around the back off the start
What's with everyone missing the dogleg section to take a shortcut around the back off the start
to keep it clean at the start, i could only imagine carnage at the intial dogleg.....
its how we do it up here, just get away and get going, the race aint won at the first corner or first lap......
here is a nice clean laps of the state champion in a MTX4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbhAqNCaIA4
enjoy
#3663
BM great info ,makes a lot of sense and will note that in my tech book for my pit bag.
#3664
my g4s..
i changed linkage stopper(for easy setup linkage)
and new dark option fuel tank.
and new dark option fuel tank.
#3665
Hey Gansei,
That is a nice car.
Are they 26mm tires you run on the rear or 30mm?
Menace
That is a nice car.
Are they 26mm tires you run on the rear or 30mm?
Menace
#3666
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey Gansei,
That is a nice car.
Are they 26mm tires you run on the rear or 30mm?
Menace
That is a nice car.
Are they 26mm tires you run on the rear or 30mm?
Menace
Plus how do you run your car without rounding the edges of the tire? Or do you let the tires round off and "scrub" in after some track time? I have ALWAYS rounded the edges to help avoid chatter so to speak? Just curious.
By the way, are those the Serpent shock balls you use for the top of the shock caps? I know you have posted it before but can't remember, plus all my Serpent "balls" are black, not brass in color like yours. I keep debating on that change or not. I do like the quick removal of the shock with those things.
What is the difference of your new tank? Obviously the cap, but why? Is it for a more consistant preasure or something? By the way, YES you have a very sweet car . Another thing is I still need to test out some different rear sway bars from other manufactures to see if I can avoid the update you did, the G4S sway bars just seem so soft in general that I want to try some others like Serpent or Mugen first. They also look like a different diameter, but need to play around a bit with that. If I do go the route you did on that rear sway bar set up you have, is the MTX4 the best route to go, or is there "other" bars that will work that you might know of? Dude, sorry for all the questions. I will post a few photos of my car tonight, plus a pic or two of the type of weather we are having here in good ole Colorado, USA. COLD and SNOW!!!!!!
One last thing, I also run the SMP Slide! I LOVE my 1:8th scale. I have actually only ran touring once at one race and that was back in October a few months back, and it wasn't a G4S , it was the S720 . Still a nice car, but it was a short notice race and I had to buy what ever I could find at the time. But now I have 3 G4S's to make up for it! I've been racing 1:8 scale for 8 years or so. Well dude, I don't want to keep boring the crap out of everyone so....Later bro!!!!
#3667
Originally Posted by gansei
i changed linkage stopper(for easy setup linkage)
and new dark option fuel tank.
and new dark option fuel tank.
#3668
Originally Posted by fenix
why the fuel filter in the pipe fuel line?
i removed filter net.
#3669
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, those almost look like 30mm in the front and rear? So my distant friend Gansei, what size are those???
Plus how do you run your car without rounding the edges of the tire? Or do you let the tires round off and "scrub" in after some track time? I have ALWAYS rounded the edges to help avoid chatter so to speak? Just curious.
By the way, are those the Serpent shock balls you use for the top of the shock caps? I know you have posted it before but can't remember, plus all my Serpent "balls" are black, not brass in color like yours. I keep debating on that change or not. I do like the quick removal of the shock with those things.
What is the difference of your new tank? Obviously the cap, but why? Is it for a more consistant preasure or something? By the way, YES you have a very sweet car . Another thing is I still need to test out some different rear sway bars from other manufactures to see if I can avoid the update you did, the G4S sway bars just seem so soft in general that I want to try some others like Serpent or Mugen first. They also look like a different diameter, but need to play around a bit with that. If I do go the route you did on that rear sway bar set up you have, is the MTX4 the best route to go, or is there "other" bars that will work that you might know of? Dude, sorry for all the questions. I will post a few photos of my car tonight, plus a pic or two of the type of weather we are having here in good ole Colorado, USA. COLD and SNOW!!!!!!
One last thing, I also run the SMP Slide! I LOVE my 1:8th scale. I have actually only ran touring once at one race and that was back in October a few months back, and it wasn't a G4S , it was the S720 . Still a nice car, but it was a short notice race and I had to buy what ever I could find at the time. But now I have 3 G4S's to make up for it! I've been racing 1:8 scale for 8 years or so. Well dude, I don't want to keep boring the crap out of everyone so....Later bro!!!!
Plus how do you run your car without rounding the edges of the tire? Or do you let the tires round off and "scrub" in after some track time? I have ALWAYS rounded the edges to help avoid chatter so to speak? Just curious.
By the way, are those the Serpent shock balls you use for the top of the shock caps? I know you have posted it before but can't remember, plus all my Serpent "balls" are black, not brass in color like yours. I keep debating on that change or not. I do like the quick removal of the shock with those things.
What is the difference of your new tank? Obviously the cap, but why? Is it for a more consistant preasure or something? By the way, YES you have a very sweet car . Another thing is I still need to test out some different rear sway bars from other manufactures to see if I can avoid the update you did, the G4S sway bars just seem so soft in general that I want to try some others like Serpent or Mugen first. They also look like a different diameter, but need to play around a bit with that. If I do go the route you did on that rear sway bar set up you have, is the MTX4 the best route to go, or is there "other" bars that will work that you might know of? Dude, sorry for all the questions. I will post a few photos of my car tonight, plus a pic or two of the type of weather we are having here in good ole Colorado, USA. COLD and SNOW!!!!!!
One last thing, I also run the SMP Slide! I LOVE my 1:8th scale. I have actually only ran touring once at one race and that was back in October a few months back, and it wasn't a G4S , it was the S720 . Still a nice car, but it was a short notice race and I had to buy what ever I could find at the time. But now I have 3 G4S's to make up for it! I've been racing 1:8 scale for 8 years or so. Well dude, I don't want to keep boring the crap out of everyone so....Later bro!!!!
i did not round edge of tire in exercise race (some bothersome.. ^^)
i like color of new fuel tank. so i buy it!
i received mail from Dario why he was using MTX4 rear sway bars.
and i agreed to his opinion that G4S rear sway bars is too soft.
and i changed to MTX-4 rear sway bars and feel good.
my shock ball is Kyosho 5.8mm ball (V-ONE RRR).
and i did NANO coating on ball.
so ball color is yellow.
i can expect smooth activity and no wear out by NANO coating.
#3670
fuel cap tune
i changed fuel cap shaft by 20mm bolt.
it help that hold more strongly fuel tank body.
so i expect that NO fuel leakage
it help that hold more strongly fuel tank body.
so i expect that NO fuel leakage
#3671
The Kfactory tank looks good for sure and the adjustable handle on the lid is nice too.
You dont have to buy a new tank to replace the standard tank ,the tank lid is available and would be a nice upgrade.
You dont have to buy a new tank to replace the standard tank ,the tank lid is available and would be a nice upgrade.
#3672
K factory tank
Hi,
I got the K factory tank too. Looks cool and works well too.
On the Speedshot front end, the Aluminium piece. Is it still the best idea to JB Weld the two smaller lightening holes? For more strength?
Menace
I got the K factory tank too. Looks cool and works well too.
On the Speedshot front end, the Aluminium piece. Is it still the best idea to JB Weld the two smaller lightening holes? For more strength?
Menace
#3673
Tech Regular
iTrader: (24)
Hey guys.
Can I ask what is the general consensus on setting droop? How many only use droop guages and measure under the arms, and how many use the lift and drop method?
Also, in the Xray setup guide (before you pounce, my son races a T2 ) it refers to downstop setting and droop. However, they both appear to measure the same thing.
Any ideas on the preferred method??
Can I ask what is the general consensus on setting droop? How many only use droop guages and measure under the arms, and how many use the lift and drop method?
Also, in the Xray setup guide (before you pounce, my son races a T2 ) it refers to downstop setting and droop. However, they both appear to measure the same thing.
Any ideas on the preferred method??
#3674
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hi,
I got the K factory tank too. Looks cool and works well too.
On the Speedshot front end, the Aluminium piece. Is it still the best idea to JB Weld the two smaller lightening holes? For more strength?
Menace
I got the K factory tank too. Looks cool and works well too.
On the Speedshot front end, the Aluminium piece. Is it still the best idea to JB Weld the two smaller lightening holes? For more strength?
Menace
#3675
speedshot
Razzor. Really?
Did it take much of a blow/hit to bend it?
Menace
Did it take much of a blow/hit to bend it?
Menace