Serpent 960....
#1891
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
960 Setup
My Setup:
Front:
0 degrees on sway bar
Longest wheelbase
4mm caster in front of upper arm
45wt oil, 3 holes, Red Springs
-2 degrees camber, -.5 degrees toe out
Upper shock position
#2 long ackermaan
Rear:
45 degrees on sway bar
45wt oil, 3 holes, Red Springs
-3.5 degrees camber, +2.5 toe in
Middle shock position
Middle Roll Center
Front:
0 degrees on sway bar
Longest wheelbase
4mm caster in front of upper arm
45wt oil, 3 holes, Red Springs
-2 degrees camber, -.5 degrees toe out
Upper shock position
#2 long ackermaan
Rear:
45 degrees on sway bar
45wt oil, 3 holes, Red Springs
-3.5 degrees camber, +2.5 toe in
Middle shock position
Middle Roll Center
#1892
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Kendall, my setup is alot like yours for the Rams club track. Ive been thinking about running the short wheelbase.
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
#1893
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by new3
hello palo glad to see you are back from vacation i would like for you to post your medium step for crystal park please thank you.http:
Front:
0 degrees on sway bar
wheelbase 2mm short
4mm caster in front of upper arm
45wt oil, 4 holes, Red Springs
-2 degrees camber, -.5 degrees toe out
Lower shock position
#2 long ackermaan
i am using the spp chassis without the front plate
252 track width
Rear:
90 degrees on sway bar, outside (new position with hard arms)
45wt oil, 3 holes, Red Springs
-3.5 degrees camber, +2.5 toe in
shock position on bulkhead
Middle Roll Center
264 track with
#1894
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Perez
Kendall, my setup is alot like yours for the Rams club track. Ive been thinking about running the short wheelbase.
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
To have more steering without modding anything:
1) New Serpent USA Lola Body. Very similar to the Parma R10 feeling.
2) New front allu hangers: 1mm lower
With some mods:
1) Front softer sway bar (grind down and make ot narrower)
2) WOS steering block. Mount this upside down (left to rigth etc.) Just need to shave a little bit the lower lip of the upper pivot ball support in order to have all the movement when the suspension is all the way down
3) front wheel axle offset. it sounds complicated but it's easy. Basically take the eccentrics that we use in the 720 for the front oneway (they hold bearing 12X18) Make a notch on the steering block so you can fit this part. The axle when installed, will not be in the center anymore, but closer to the uppser side of the steering block. You can try this with the std steering blocks or the WOS. After installing this, downstops will remain the same but you have to adjust again the ride heigth.
With all this, my car is REALLY good. I am using long wheelbase even in small tracks and i have enough steering. Try it and let me know
Paolo
#1895
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Perez
Kendall, my setup is alot like yours for the Rams club track. Ive been thinking about running the short wheelbase.
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
It seems like the mugen cars are going to the shorter wheelbase and modding parts to make it even shorter than the original shorter wheelbase, to help with the corners.
On the other hand, a lot of kyosho guys are narrowing the car. I know the Scotty Kimbrow and crew are down to 258 in the rear and 255 or so in the front. Of course they had to do plenty of mods to the axles etc, but are doing it.
I tried narrowing the car in the rear to 260 and left it at 255 in the front, the car was really really sensitive and difficult to drive.
Thoughts?
Difficult to drive is not good at all. Maybe narrow the front and the rear at the same time, say Rear: 264 Front: 254 and then try Rear: 263 Front: 263 and so down to 260 and 250.
Modding existing parts is a little extreme...as the 960 has tons of setup options along with optional parts. When in doubt I refer to the setup guide book, but it's essentially memorized.
#1896
Paolo, What's the part number on the new front aluminum hangers?
Thanks, Gary
Thanks, Gary
#1897
Tech Apprentice
Can you tell me what is a front aluminum hangers?
Thank you
Thank you
#1898
Tech Regular
teflon brakepads are now attached
going to mount the rest of the car now.. but with standard gearshaft beacuse i dont have the spp axle only for the middle bearingblock. the search for decreasing the rotating mass
what gearshaft are you guys using? titan? standard? spp?
going to mount the rest of the car now.. but with standard gearshaft beacuse i dont have the spp axle only for the middle bearingblock. the search for decreasing the rotating mass
what gearshaft are you guys using? titan? standard? spp?
Last edited by Orfeous; 01-27-2007 at 05:31 AM.
#1899
Originally Posted by Roedor
Can you tell me what is a front aluminum hangers?
Thank you
Thank you
Stock plastic part number is SER903105: http://www.serpent.com/product/903105
The optional aluminum bracket part number is SER903161: http://www.serpent.com/product/903161
This aluminum bracket has been available since early 2006. I'm not sure if Paolo is referring this bracket or a new item that hasn't been released yet.
#1900
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by GSwayze
Front Upper Suspension Arm Bracket.
Stock plastic part number is SER903105: http://www.serpent.com/product/903105
The optional aluminum bracket part number is SER903161: http://www.serpent.com/product/903161
This aluminum bracket has been available since early 2006. I'm not sure if Paolo is referring this bracket or a new item that hasn't been released yet.
Stock plastic part number is SER903105: http://www.serpent.com/product/903105
The optional aluminum bracket part number is SER903161: http://www.serpent.com/product/903161
This aluminum bracket has been available since early 2006. I'm not sure if Paolo is referring this bracket or a new item that hasn't been released yet.
Paolo
#1901
Thanks Paolo!
#1902
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Paolo M
Hi Steve, and guys.....
To have more steering without modding anything:
1) New Serpent USA Lola Body. Very similar to the Parma R10 feeling.
2) New front allu hangers: 1mm lower
With some mods:
1) Front softer sway bar (grind down and make ot narrower)
2) WOS steering block. Mount this upside down (left to rigth etc.) Just need to shave a little bit the lower lip of the upper pivot ball support in order to have all the movement when the suspension is all the way down
3) front wheel axle offset. it sounds complicated but it's easy. Basically take the eccentrics that we use in the 720 for the front oneway (they hold bearing 12X18) Make a notch on the steering block so you can fit this part. The axle when installed, will not be in the center anymore, but closer to the uppser side of the steering block. You can try this with the std steering blocks or the WOS. After installing this, downstops will remain the same but you have to adjust again the ride heigth.
With all this, my car is REALLY good. I am using long wheelbase even in small tracks and i have enough steering. Try it and let me know
Paolo
To have more steering without modding anything:
1) New Serpent USA Lola Body. Very similar to the Parma R10 feeling.
2) New front allu hangers: 1mm lower
With some mods:
1) Front softer sway bar (grind down and make ot narrower)
2) WOS steering block. Mount this upside down (left to rigth etc.) Just need to shave a little bit the lower lip of the upper pivot ball support in order to have all the movement when the suspension is all the way down
3) front wheel axle offset. it sounds complicated but it's easy. Basically take the eccentrics that we use in the 720 for the front oneway (they hold bearing 12X18) Make a notch on the steering block so you can fit this part. The axle when installed, will not be in the center anymore, but closer to the uppser side of the steering block. You can try this with the std steering blocks or the WOS. After installing this, downstops will remain the same but you have to adjust again the ride heigth.
With all this, my car is REALLY good. I am using long wheelbase even in small tracks and i have enough steering. Try it and let me know
Paolo
I tried the WOS blocks before and didn't like them but I did not try them inverted. What does flipping them over do to the handling of the car?
#1903
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
Paolo
I tried the WOS blocks before and didn't like them but I did not try them inverted. What does flipping them over do to the handling of the car?
I tried the WOS blocks before and didn't like them but I did not try them inverted. What does flipping them over do to the handling of the car?
Paolo
#1904
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Paolo M
More steering (nice steering), wich means, not the rear end sliding, just more steering.
Paolo
Paolo
I just shimmed my front wheels out and went to the outside hole for the pin that goes through the quick change. Will this be basically the same thing as going to the WOS steering blocks?
#1905
wos
Hi Paulo,
should I use the "Wheel-axle front WOS (#909223)" with the "wos steeringblocks"? Or is the wos steerinblocks enough for MORE STEERING.
thnx
Taner
should I use the "Wheel-axle front WOS (#909223)" with the "wos steeringblocks"? Or is the wos steerinblocks enough for MORE STEERING.
thnx
Taner