Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Go to the hardware store and pick up a set of picks. One has a 90deg bend one is a hook and 1 is a 45deg angle, they cost about $5.00 and you can use them as a castor clip tool also!

FlipperCVT

I use a Craftsman 4mm open wrench.

VenomWorldOrder

the prospec is different to the original mugen mtx3 it has the titanium turnbuckles which have no holes in the turnbuckles.

you could try drilling a small hole in the turnbuckle or making a wrench yourself with a 90 degree angle on the wrench

TO THE GUY WHO HAS THE CAR THAT SPINS OUT;

you are running too much droop on the rear. ie the car lifts too much under heavy braking, reduce the droop, thereby reducing the weight shift to the front and your problem will be solved. if you are running the car with the right tyres, the tweek taken out etc the droop will be the crucks of your issues.

chambalero

iTrader: (1)

if u want somethin nice get a tamiya turnbuckle wrench. fits perfectly

Hi guys! just finished building my first mugen car, my prospec mtx3, and i must say the quality is very good and it looks very durable

Bivens

Also, the front shock damping rate plays in here......you can thicken-up the front oil to keep RAPID weight transfer from occurring under braking......but you'll still have similar weight transfer when not braking hard.....keeps it turning in good on the off-power corners while not spinning under hard braking.....

If you simply remove droop, you can remove turn-in in non-braking corners also....where you may not have a problem now.

ProRacer03

I just began the break in stage on my MTX-3 Prospec. I have a problem I think you guys might be able to help with.

When i start the car, the wheels begin to spin, as soon as the wheels stop, the car dies.

So I put the car on the starter box, engine fires up, put the car on the ground it dies. I think the clutch spring might be set too tight but I have it on stock settings with only 2mm spacing on the clutch spring.

My question is, should i tighten the clutch spring down? Do I need to open up the pinion gears in order to do it or can i tighten down the pilot shaft screw?

Thanks in advance, this forum has been a very valuable resource of information.

Ah10

Seems like your clutch bell is engaging with the clutch shoe, you need some space between them so it doesnt engage when idling!

ProRacer03

How is this done? Should I put in some spacers? Would this require shaving anything down?

Do you have a picture?

What you describe sounds like the reason my car dies out. Just need to find a remedy

mckrooz

iTrader: (8)

You need to add more shims behind the clutchbell.

elmar66

Getting to the final steps of assembly on the MTX-3. When mounting the engine with a slide carb, I don't have enough clearance on the top tray for the carb to fully open unless I twist the carb about 15%. Is this normal? Should I instead grind the tray to get the clearance?

Thanks!

racecar850

Very normal

Ah10

I think the easiest way is to remove some shims on the thrust bearing side, to give it some more room for the clutch bell to clear the clutch shoe!

gonzoY5

Just put some shims BEFORE the bearing on the INSIDE of the clutchbell. I had that problema little with the clutch dragging, I wouldn't shut the engine down, but you would tell it was dragging. Good luck

ProRacer03

Thanks for all your help! I added some shims and that seemed to fix the problem.

It's a good things that the car fired right up. Does anyone run the 5.4 carb restricter on their NS12? I left it in to be on the safe side.

I added the 19/16 conversion and 3Racing aluminum pulleys all around.

Here are some pics of what you guys helped me out with.

Data

you need to come out to the track more instead of here came across a new pipe from a company called "skyline". seems pretty good, let you try it next week, if you ever came to the track.