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Old 06-08-2004, 04:17 AM   #12751
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Quote:
Originally posted by vadn1
If you get a chance grab an issue of Xtreme RC car magazine, this month as a set up by Robbie Collins on the Mugen MTX-3. He recommends going with a B block and tells under what circumstances to change to the A or C. Grab one issue, it helps in other areas of the car also. Great to have in the Tool box when out at the track working on setup...
Could you please scan that for some of the people who car by this magazine im from austraila dont think my newsagency has these kinda magazines.
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Old 06-08-2004, 04:23 AM   #12752
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also with the 16/19 conversion i have just been told by my mugen supplier that this conversion only works with a mtx-3 that is equipped with a front one-way diff. or can this still be used effectively on a mtx-3 with front and rear open diff?

and do those A B C D suspension arms or roll centre (basically the current topic right now) come within the kit or are these optional/hop-up parts?
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Old 06-08-2004, 04:54 AM   #12753
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
also with the 16/19 conversion i have just been told by my mugen supplier that this conversion only works with a mtx-3 that is equipped with a front one-way diff. or can this still be used effectively on a mtx-3 with front and rear open diff?

and do those A B C D suspension arms or roll centre (basically the current topic right now) come within the kit or are these optional/hop-up parts?


that A B C susp arm already come with the kit, it's not an opt part. maybe the D one must be the opt part, because till now , i can't find D susp arm, hehehehe.

one more things, can anyone give me suggestion about the shock piston hole, which one better, one hole or 2 hole, maybe more???
because, most people said, that one piston hole can't be constant for play 45 minute on the final . thank
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:01 AM   #12754
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Quote:
Originally posted by momotalo

one more things, can anyone give me suggestion about the shock piston hole, which one better, one hole or 2 hole, maybe more???
because, most people said, that one piston hole can't be constant for play 45 minute on the final . thank
1 hole shock piston at the front will instigate initial understeer but at high speed turns, mainly on a large track it will hold the direction better. so this means mid turn and exit it will steer better with a 1 hole.

2 hole gives better initial steer in but mid and exit it will push more as the shocks will compress easier.

go with the base setup of 1 hole front 2 holes rear. only play with pistons after EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEVERYTHING else is tuned. i don't even think it is worth playing with them. the designers have already figured out this very small tuning option for you.

remember 80% of tuning is in the tyres you use. GET THAT RIGHT FIRST.
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:02 AM   #12755
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Quote:
Originally posted by chippy
A blocks used for high tracktion tracks
Less body roll Less side ways bite
So the A blocks lower the roll centre
This is what has me confused. The A block is the 4mm high block which is the lowest block right? The C block is the highest? As far as I can tell raising the inner lower hingepin RAISES the roll centre resulting in less chassis roll. Therefore the C block should be the best on a high grip track.............. I am obviously missing something here
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:14 AM   #12756
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Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
remember 80% of tuning is in the tyres you use. GET THAT RIGHT FIRST.
Totally agree!

Also previously someone has mentioned shaving parts of the rear up right off. i have compared the pic of a shaven rear up right with my car and notice no difference! where exactly is the shaving needed to be done?
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:16 AM   #12757
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
also with the 16/19 conversion i have just been told by my mugen supplier that this conversion only works with a mtx-3 that is equipped with a front one-way diff. or can this still be used effectively on a mtx-3 with front and rear open diff?
It'll work fine if you use a front diff.
The idea is to be able to maintain even front to rear tyre wear, arguably more important if you are using a front diff, come to think of it.
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:58 AM   #12758
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Default body supports

Who carries the body supports for the mtx-3. On the intruction manual of the mtx-3 the front cover has some type of supports just above the lower body clips. Also the same thing can be found on Robbies Collins car in Xtreme RC car mag....?
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:32 AM   #12759
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
This is what has me confused. The A block is the 4mm high block which is the lowest block right? The C block is the highest? As far as I can tell raising the inner lower hingepin RAISES the roll centre resulting in less chassis roll. Therefore the C block should be the best on a high grip track.............. I am obviously missing something here
I'm confused too - no news there, then.
I just measured the blocks as I'm rather unfamiliar with this car.
The "A" blocks have the lower arm pin at 4mm above chassis, the B's at 5mm and the C's at 6mm.
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:44 AM   #12760
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has anybody try with 450 oil shock , and the purple spring??
because i saw in setting sheet , most of the people use 600 and the light blue spring??
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Old 06-08-2004, 10:20 AM   #12761
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I'm entered for the World Championships I hope, does anyone know if I could rent a house close to the track 2/10/04-25/10/04. Also need to ship goods to someone reliable, the stuff I won't be taking with me. This will be my first WC if all goes well, wish me luck guys I will need it.
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:26 PM   #12762
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I'm confused too - no news there, then.
I just measured the blocks as I'm rather unfamiliar with this car.
The "A" blocks have the lower arm pin at 4mm above chassis, the B's at 5mm and the C's at 6mm.
It's not always best to think of rollcenters and how they relate to traction or even the tendancy of the car to roll (to an extent). The main thing that you're changing when you raise or lower the rear rollcenter is the roll axis.

Lower the rear rollcenter and the car will be more mellow and have less steering. This is because the rear rollcenter is acting with the front rollcenter changing how the weight is transfered at the front of the car.

Raise the rollcenter and the roll axis increases giving the car more steering and generally a more responsive feel. especially when transitioning from one direction to another. Raising the rollcenter on a high bite track can also make the car traction roll.
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:34 PM   #12763
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Totally agree!

Also previously someone has mentioned shaving parts of the rear up right off. i have compared the pic of a shaven rear up right with my car and notice no difference! where exactly is the shaving needed to be done?
look harder mine have no kink on them
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Old 06-08-2004, 12:58 PM   #12764
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unregistered
It's not always best to think of rollcenters and how they relate to traction or even the tendancy of the car to roll (to an extent). The main thing that you're changing when you raise or lower the rear rollcenter is the roll axis.

Lower the rear rollcenter and the car will be more mellow and have less steering. This is because the rear rollcenter is acting with the front rollcenter changing how the weight is transfered at the front of the car.

Raise the rollcenter and the roll axis increases giving the car more steering and generally a more responsive feel. especially when transitioning from one direction to another. Raising the rollcenter on a high bite track can also make the car traction roll.
Are saying then that for the MTX, the roll-center is higher relative to the CG?
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Old 06-08-2004, 01:36 PM   #12765
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Are saying then that for the MTX, the roll-center is higher relative to the CG?
Not exactly. I'll try to explain how the rollcenters and CG all work together.

We know what the CG is and that it controls how much weight is transferred to the outside tires during cornering.

We know what the rollcenters are (front and rear), and the roll axis is an emaginary line connecting the front and rear rollcenters.

On our cars (all RC cars that I've seen) both rollcenters are below the car's CG.

Here's how they work together. The roll axis changes how the CG weight is transferred to the outside wheels. If the roll axis is level (front and rear rollcenters are the same) then the CG weight will transfer straight out (the percentage is about the same as the front to rear weight distribution). If the roll axis is more inclined (always higher at the rear) it tweaks how the CG transfers weight moving it foreward on the car giving more steering and the feel that you lose rear traction (you lose rear and you gain front).

I guess a more simple way to put it is that with the rear rollcenter raised it wants to force the front to roll more in the corner planting the RF tire more.
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