Mugen MTX-3
12-09-2003, 04:55 PM
#9181
Originally posted by kreidel
I to have had a knuckle break...do to a hard hit but broken just the same.
I to have had a knuckle break...do to a hard hit but broken just the same.
12-09-2003, 07:38 PM
#9182
Originally posted by RTolle
Hi, I was wondering if you can give me some input. I'm looking at the MTX3 for the upcoming season and wondering how it compares to the ntc3 and r40 on high speed, high bite tracks? Here's a couple other questions:
1. Has anyone had issues with the belts?
2. if yes to #1 then how hard is it to change them?
3. Are there any durability issues?
4. Is it easy to work on?
Hi, I was wondering if you can give me some input. I'm looking at the MTX3 for the upcoming season and wondering how it compares to the ntc3 and r40 on high speed, high bite tracks? Here's a couple other questions:
1. Has anyone had issues with the belts?
2. if yes to #1 then how hard is it to change them?
3. Are there any durability issues?
4. Is it easy to work on?
Not that hard to change compared with the back one, best is to but the KFactory centre block, it comes in 2 pieces and will make belt change a lot faster. You need not take the top deck off, just the front 3 screws and one side of the front bulk head.
Durability depends on how hard you drive the car, of course its a lot more derable than the NTC3.
Very easy to work on, there are actually short cuts to replace/remove parts.
12-09-2003, 07:40 PM
#9183
Originally posted by Manticore
right and this is for the durability issue. my knuckle broken at a minor crash.
right and this is for the durability issue. my knuckle broken at a minor crash.
Wait till you see my NTC3 bill ... its bad ...
12-09-2003, 08:03 PM
#9184
mtx-3 was made for the race track. cars like serpents and g4's are also made for the race track... they are all meant to be run on a prepared surface.
now shaft driven cars are ok to run on street and play around. that's mainly the purpose of the shaft anyways. i'm not saying that they cannot be race cars though. ntc3 was very successful on the race track. well that's due to the fact that they're under the hands of baker and pavidis. you can give both of these guys any car and they still will be very hard or sometimes even impossible to beat by "local guys". they also replace their plastics everytime making the car run close to flawless. when i had a ntc3 i didn't have the money to replace the diff case and diff assembly all the time. i didn't have the resources of the "pro drivers". i also didn't have the money to buy associated one ways all the time. those diffs and one-ways blow up all the time without even hitting anything. this happens specially if you drive hard on sweepers. and then those $9 diff cases. hit something and you're car's setup is messed up and most likely the diff case is gone too. and then they came out with what they call "the fix". you can install that but then other things will break like the knuckles or the arms.
i got so tired of the ntc3 and sold it. i loved the way it handles and accelerates. i also like the way the car is setup because it was really easy to work on. but then not finishing the race most of the time because of diff blowing up, i got so tired of it. if i did have all the parts like the pros and i get them for free i'd probably keep the car. but then since i'm just a "local guy" i'd rather drive a mugen or a serpent. they're not perfect since there's no perfect car out there anyways, but they are so much stronger and fun to drive.
winning or not, it's always fun to finish a race... so i'd rather drive my mtx-3... mugen rules!
now shaft driven cars are ok to run on street and play around. that's mainly the purpose of the shaft anyways. i'm not saying that they cannot be race cars though. ntc3 was very successful on the race track. well that's due to the fact that they're under the hands of baker and pavidis. you can give both of these guys any car and they still will be very hard or sometimes even impossible to beat by "local guys". they also replace their plastics everytime making the car run close to flawless. when i had a ntc3 i didn't have the money to replace the diff case and diff assembly all the time. i didn't have the resources of the "pro drivers". i also didn't have the money to buy associated one ways all the time. those diffs and one-ways blow up all the time without even hitting anything. this happens specially if you drive hard on sweepers. and then those $9 diff cases. hit something and you're car's setup is messed up and most likely the diff case is gone too. and then they came out with what they call "the fix". you can install that but then other things will break like the knuckles or the arms.
i got so tired of the ntc3 and sold it. i loved the way it handles and accelerates. i also like the way the car is setup because it was really easy to work on. but then not finishing the race most of the time because of diff blowing up, i got so tired of it. if i did have all the parts like the pros and i get them for free i'd probably keep the car. but then since i'm just a "local guy" i'd rather drive a mugen or a serpent. they're not perfect since there's no perfect car out there anyways, but they are so much stronger and fun to drive.
winning or not, it's always fun to finish a race... so i'd rather drive my mtx-3... mugen rules!
12-09-2003, 08:08 PM
#9185
replace the knuckles/uprights with aluminum ones. they are like $35 or $40 but well worth it. my bro has them and they are bulletproof now. i'm getting mine soon.
12-09-2003, 08:56 PM
#9186
like you said before if you fix one thing others may break, switching to alloy knuckles may prevent the knuckles from breaking, but you amy snap a pillow ball or strip an A arm
any rc car is bullet proof only when they are sitting on the bench, once you put it onto the track anything can happen
any rc car is bullet proof only when they are sitting on the bench, once you put it onto the track anything can happen
12-09-2003, 09:11 PM
#9188
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by tIANcI
Not that hard to change compared with the back one, best is to but the KFactory centre block, it comes in 2 pieces and will make belt change a lot faster. You need not take the top deck off, just the front 3 screws and one side of the front bulk head.
Not that hard to change compared with the back one, best is to but the KFactory centre block, it comes in 2 pieces and will make belt change a lot faster. You need not take the top deck off, just the front 3 screws and one side of the front bulk head.
I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season
12-09-2003, 09:12 PM
#9189
Originally posted by B
God darn it, how many times do you change the belt in one day?
I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season
God darn it, how many times do you change the belt in one day?
I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season
12-09-2003, 11:16 PM
#9191
Originally posted by B
I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season
I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season
12-10-2003, 09:54 AM
#9193
yes you have to change the side pulleys. put the 19t from the rear to the front and then you have to buy a 16t and put it in the rear. put the 16/19 belt and you're set. your great handling mtx-3 will handle even better and more consistent.
you can either use a kawahara belt or you can buy these belts off of ebay. they are very similar belt. the kawahara belts are made in taiwan, these belts are made in U.S.A.
Ebay Item number: 3162890563
you can either use a kawahara belt or you can buy these belts off of ebay. they are very similar belt. the kawahara belts are made in taiwan, these belts are made in U.S.A.
Ebay Item number: 3162890563
12-10-2003, 09:55 AM
#9194
mugen doesn't have any 16/19 belt. you have to go with aftermarket to take advantage of the better setup.