right and this is for the durability issue. my knuckle broken at a minor crash.

Belt problems for me is when I go off track and then I pick up sand, that is when the belts are screwed, other than that I got no belt problems

Not that hard to change compared with the back one, best is to but the KFactory centre block, it comes in 2 pieces and will make belt change a lot faster. You need not take the top deck off, just the front 3 screws and one side of the front bulk head.

Durability depends on how hard you drive the car, of course its a lot more derable than the NTC3.

Very easy to work on, there are actually short cuts to replace/remove parts.

I have broken about 7 knuckles and each time its because of a hard shunt. Usually its the steering arm from the knuckle that cracks ... that to the bit where the bearing is located. Other than that my knuckles have not broken. Its a tough enough car!

Wait till you see my NTC3 bill ... its bad ...

mtx-3 was made for the race track. cars like serpents and g4's are also made for the race track... they are all meant to be run on a prepared surface.

now shaft driven cars are ok to run on street and play around. that's mainly the purpose of the shaft anyways. i'm not saying that they cannot be race cars though. ntc3 was very successful on the race track. well that's due to the fact that they're under the hands of baker and pavidis. you can give both of these guys any car and they still will be very hard or sometimes even impossible to beat by "local guys". they also replace their plastics everytime making the car run close to flawless. when i had a ntc3 i didn't have the money to replace the diff case and diff assembly all the time. i didn't have the resources of the "pro drivers". i also didn't have the money to buy associated one ways all the time. those diffs and one-ways blow up all the time without even hitting anything. this happens specially if you drive hard on sweepers. and then those $9 diff cases. hit something and you're car's setup is messed up and most likely the diff case is gone too. and then they came out with what they call "the fix". you can install that but then other things will break like the knuckles or the arms.

i got so tired of the ntc3 and sold it. i loved the way it handles and accelerates. i also like the way the car is setup because it was really easy to work on. but then not finishing the race most of the time because of diff blowing up, i got so tired of it. if i did have all the parts like the pros and i get them for free i'd probably keep the car. but then since i'm just a "local guy" i'd rather drive a mugen or a serpent. they're not perfect since there's no perfect car out there anyways, but they are so much stronger and fun to drive.

winning or not, it's always fun to finish a race... so i'd rather drive my mtx-3... mugen rules!


:nod: :tire: :tire: :tire:

replace the knuckles/uprights with aluminum ones. they are like $35 or $40 but well worth it. my bro has them and they are bulletproof now. i'm getting mine soon.

:nod: :tire: :tire: :tire:

like you said before if you fix one thing others may break, switching to alloy knuckles may prevent the knuckles from breaking, but you amy snap a pillow ball or strip an A arm

any rc car is bullet proof only when they are sitting on the bench, once you put it onto the track anything can happen:)

bench racers:D

God darn it, how many times do you change the belt in one day?:lol: :sweat: :lol: :lol:

I;ve been running in a parking lot for as long as i can remember and i replaced the belt after one season:) :)

alright, you shoot me the answer. i was wondering why people need short cut for belt replacement! :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

I bet it is because removing the E clip is too much of a hassel!!

First time out just for Engine break in and setup I ran what I felt to be a nice clean asphalt lot. Made 6 or 7 tanks and the front belt had a chunk of 2/3 the belt width X about 1 1/2" gone and the rear belt was shreaded down nearly to the fiber threads. Ate the Rear foams down to about 2mm of foam too.Brakes were probably set too hard and I had it set to factory setup sheet which was 4 mmF and 5 MM rear Chassis clearance so I think it probably picked up more pebbles into the belt cutouts.How High do you run your chassis for the lot you drive in? I've already been told not to waste foams in lots. And a Question for those who have been around for A long while I just picked up a prime 12 (Cheap) it runs decent and still has Great compression on the stock vx12 motor. Other then changing to a tuned pipe What other beneficial hop ups are available? 2 sp? Flimsy car but its very light I already laid down the steering servo and put an mtx Radio box in it. I have a spare side exhaust motor so I might try my hand at modding the crank myself. If I screw it up ....Spare motor.I tried looking for hop ups but didn't get many hits.A countersunk 3mm chassis would be nice to start.Its Just a Lot basher for me but its always fun to Tweak a car and the MTX3 just isn't much fun in that respect because Box Stock its soooo nice.

has anyone tried the kawahara side belt that was designed to eliminate the tire wearing issue ? do i have to change the side pullies ? if so, does munge makes them or i have to go with the after market ?
thanks

yes you have to change the side pulleys. put the 19t from the rear to the front and then you have to buy a 16t and put it in the rear. put the 16/19 belt and you're set. your great handling mtx-3 will handle even better and more consistent.

you can either use a kawahara belt or you can buy these belts off of ebay. they are very similar belt. the kawahara belts are made in taiwan, these belts are made in U.S.A.

Ebay Item number: 3162890563

:nod: :tire: :tire: :tire:

mugen doesn't have any 16/19 belt. you have to go with aftermarket to take advantage of the better setup.

:nod: :tire: :tire: :tire:

hi there, thanks for the reply, i guess i will order a few off ebay and give it a try, by the way, where can i get the 16 t side pully ? does mugen makes it ?