0.6mm on the clutchbell doesn't matter anything for an early clutch engagement, but will harm your thrust bearing, better to use less (between 0.3 and 0.4mm). If you want to get your clutch engages later, you need to tighten the spring that preloads it.

Getting the Extra hard spring has proven to see a very improvement on the clutch, but sometimes, the stock spring is fine for low traction conditions. But first of all tighten that spring (go in 1/4 turn improvements) and see if improves

I am refering to the clutch spring cover from the end of the clutch nut and not the gap. Anyway will try tightening it 1/4 more.

.6mm on clutch spring cause early engagement make more sense. stiffer spring will sort out the situation or you may just tighten the spring a bit.

I run on a med-high traction track and run:

Spring adjustment: 0.95cm with standard spring
Clutch bell gap: 0.3cm

Hope this helps:sweat:

Can you help me which screws are the bump stops and which the rebound stops?

bumpstops???? seeems that you're mixing many things related to geometries in the car, let's see if we can dissect them and give more light.

- Bumpsteer: Is an involuntary effect created on the steering due to the travel of the front suspension that varies the angle at which the wheel steers. If a car is well designed and all their measurements, this effect should be minimum. Basically affects how stand the car in the middle of a turn, where suspension compresses and moves.

- Rebound stop???: Probably you're referring to the upstop adjustment. On the front of the MTX3 are located in the holder of the rollbar, are a pair of grub screws that screws from the side view and push the front bulkheads, limiting the uptravel of the suspension.

On the rear suspension, are a pair of grub screws who are adjusted from the ground view of the car (are the rearmost holes on the arm). Better to not mess with them too.

Is from general advice (and myself, too) to not mess with those screws if you don't have a grasp on what are you doing, in fact, you're limiting the suspension on their compression movement, thus reducing the ability of absorbing irregularities from the track. This adjustment if done, should be revised depending on the diameter of the tyre you use and changes as you start to wear the tyres (foams, of course).

Sometimes, bump stop is referred to the difference in the suspension travel where you adjust the droop, and how much compresses the weight of the car the suspension, this allows some 'uptravel' portion of the suspension, is the same effect than on a fullsize car when turning, the suspension expands to keep the wheel on the ground when the body leans to the outwards of the turn.

Hope this can solve your doubts, of not, please refine your question.

glad to hear that FFM is going back home now. he did a great job.

Can wait to meet you guys next month !!!

Rebound stops and bump stops arew written in the MTX3 set up sheet so thats why i'm asking.

I have seen the 16/19 belt set up on e-bay. Do you put the 19 on the front and the 16 on the rear? How does this effect the over all gear ratio? How much does it give or take away from the car on a big track (240x185)?

I only run big tracks and the idea sounds good of over driving the front. I just am not a math wizard to figure out how this will effect the grear ratio on a big track..

Thanks for the help.

Joe :nod: :nod:

Yes. ;)

There is a link to a program to help with the math but I can't find it at the moment. :confused:

okay will try it out. are you using a digital caliper? I find it hard to measure using the std caliper, too small a gap!. I aslo changed the bell gap to 0.3mm,it used to be 0.5mm.

Hey Joe!

Maybe this will help with your math skills.........;) :sweat:

http://www.stsrc.com.tw/info/ratio.zip

it is here. you forget things fast. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for the responses.

Joe

Thanks man,it's a hot and stinking day down here is that a good enough excuse?

:blush: