R/C Tech Forums - Mugen MTX-3

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I have to agree with CorseR, I loved my NTC3 a lot but after driving the Mugen I will not change it for a shft drive anymore. Was trying out a few TC3s yesterday and I did not enjoy the way they handled. The guys tried my Mugen with a one way and they found that the Mugen was much better to drive, one said the car sticks to the ground.

If shaft was that great, not that it is not, why do we not see that in the 1/8 scale cars? Food for thought ...

Quote:

Originally posted by Corse-R
I come from the shaft drive (mine previous car was an NTC3) and wouldn't return to it for several reasons (beware, don't want to open a war between those two cars), but will list their Pros and Cons as I see them.

Pro: More efficient drive. More power to the ground due to less drag.
Pro: Lighter transmission. More rip from the hole (in fact is one of their biggest advantage) the ability of accelerating from still is in fact, unbeatable.
Pro: Their enclosed transmission makes it almost bulletproff, but there have their own ratio of weak points, in fact, the plastic outdrives are one of their biggest weak points (and the aluminium optional ones, doesn't solve much better).

Cons: More delicate of driving on low traction conditions (in fact the power and the solidness of the transmission is their worst enemy). Belts stretch and absorb some of the shock of transferring the power to the ground, belts are easier on tyres for this.
Cons: Torque steer. No matter what tells you the designers, anything turning in paralell to the driving direction subjects all the car to an uneven torque moment that couldn't be compensated, to every rpm there's a different torque roll moment.
Cons: Is a much different way to drive those cars, in fact more than a con, can be a Pro, you can yank the brakes much later. You need to maintain throttle more time, less inertia on the transmission has their own drawbacks.

Still prefeer the three belts scheme, if not, switching from 1/8 to 200mm cars would be much difficult to me.

Corse,I agree with you.......I started driving the R40,and find it easier to drive....

But why the rush of all the top cars(except x ray) to go shaft in electric?

Quote:

Originally posted by fastharry
But why the rush of all the top cars(except x ray) to go shaft in electric?

To be fair (and IMHO), on electric cars, their power is much reduced than GP cars, think about it, best and most powerful electrical engines, range between 260 and 290 watts of power. On GP cars, this power rating goes between 1000 and 1150 watts of power (1Hp equals to 736 watts), so the need of having the most efficient and less drag transmissions is a must, hence here the need of shafts on their schemes.

... also, electric cars have limited energy to complete a race, we can refuel as often as we want.

Quote:

Originally posted by Corse-R
(1Hp equals to 736 watts

ooops 1 hp = 746 watts

1HP=746w
1ps=736w

European horse is bigger ;) :D

In electric would'nt trade my TC3 in for anything.....but in nitro i'd go with the MTX-3 everytime coz it's got better suspension and reliability than a NTC3 hands down....

Hi,im spanish driver,with the same setup witch is the diference on the track using servo saver A,B or C pieces.

Thanks
George

seen the new Kyosho shaft car today, looks interesting!

latest version of my car with STS Dragon...Dragon seems really powerful!

the picture doesnt work

Five Stars One way unit

Hey Mtx-3 racers

anyone interested in a brand new Five Stars one way unit (upgrade) give me a pm.;)

what is the best tire brand and compound to run on a smooth open track? Thanks

The servo savers adjust the amount of Ackerman in the steering. You probably want to run A on the majority of your tracks unless your on a track with high bite that flows a little more. Just think of it as this. A is better for tight tracks, B for bigger open tracks and I don't know anyone who has run the C so I have no clue on the c block. I hope this helps.

If I am wrong about any of this tire stuff can someone let me know.
There are only a couple of foam manufacturers.
There is GRP rubber, Speedmind, Jaco and the color rated stuff available in the US. Elligis, Fast tires and a couple others are all GRP. Speedminds are cheaper here in the states retail so that makes them popular.
I have ran all of these tires and find the Nitro Shoes by Jaco are brittle and are hard to get a good grip on the nut because of how the rim is made. After breaking enough of these tires I stopped running Jaco.
Speedminds seem to chunk more than GRP tires. With speedminds you need to glue the edge of the tires to the rim. (Maybe they should start including tires savers)
GRP tires are good but they take a little longer to heat up so you might need to take a couple of extra practice laps with them.