Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, its good to know that you need to lower arm upgrade with the uprights.

jaykay

Hope that the new Rigid/one way is soon available.

Rc_Boy89

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering what you guys with the mtx4 are using to turn on and off your electronics?
Have just finished building the kit (awesome car) and electronics are in, I ended up mounting a spare futaba switch onto the optional switch mount which goes beside the transponder holder, the size of the switch makes it look nasty and actually binds with the break linkage a bit..so looking to create/purchase a alternative.
I was thinking of doing something like the g4s has with the futaba female and male connectors and just do a direct connection rather than a switch but any suggestions or images of what others are doing be great, thanks

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

Setting up the power as a direct connection with a short extension lead is the best way to eliminate the problems associated with running a switch, not to mention that there is less wires running around the place!
You can also get yourself a set of mini Deans plugs to use as your conection on the battery lead and extension lead.
I have seen them used on several cars with great success.

thunderbt3

iTrader: (14)

I dont use a switch, I just plug and unplug the battery from the RX

choisan

iTrader: (6)

i am using airtronics/sanwa switch which has 2 sockets. one is connected to the battery jack forever and ther other is particularly for connecting to charger plug. it never fails.
i had the problem using the extension cables by KO before, loosing control , because of the extension plug(KO type) was loosen and loosen as the car sometimes drove over the bump, finally loose control, the front end of the car was totally destroyed.
But using that sanwa's stuff, i have no problem.

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

Here's the pic for you Kosta, of the item i mentioned earlier
And yes, it's been a while since she's had a thorough clean!

MaDaGAS CAR

lol must be that sirio u love making all that mess lol cheers for the pic got a much beter understanding now

Bigtbone

Does anyone run the lightweight clutch parts? flywheel ect..

dg8one

of course man i told you that sunday

Bigtbone

I dont remember... u mentioningthat..
V said it was not worth it..

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

This is what I did, I stop using switch on touring car after I bought my 710, either servo plug or Dean's Micro plug. I have plenty of the unassamble servo plug at home to make these and to shorten my servo wire as well

asw7576

That's right.......... Frequent plug and unplug directly from Rx could damage the Rx itself in the long run.

My tips : I'm using thicker cable for the servo cable extension...... to power two 13kg digital servos. Thinner cable might burn out to carry heavy loads.

Bigbarn

iTrader: (13)

Lighten your entire drivetrain. I was advised to drill out the clutch shoes to 4.00mm and run a super hard spring. All the discussion on this board has always said good money is spent in the drivetrain rather than aluminum bling.

K factory main shaft
Mugen titanium mid shaft
drill out the stock or buy the MSR hubs
Aluminum pinions are debated on here all the time ( I don't know the best answer on this one) I run aluminum.
Rubber belts for racing, Urethane for club events and practice.
Skyline first gear hub (Kawahara)
Skyline second gear hub (Kawahara)
I have a 3 racing lightened clutch bell, but I feel like it eats clutch bearings. So I don't use it.

Bigtbone

Thanks Man.