Mugen MTX-4
08-08-2006, 09:18 PM
#5716
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
cool so there here now lol, thats u.s bucks eh
Yes sir that is USD.
08-09-2006, 02:17 AM
#5718
Originally Posted by racer-oZ
ok... did some reverse math and came up with internal drive of 2.1585
08-09-2006, 05:00 AM
#5719
scott
hey scott how did u do at the glc? 
08-09-2006, 06:54 AM
#5721
Originally Posted by isuzuguy
hey scott how did u do at the glc?
Not good. I ran out of gas or had to pit in 4 of my 5 qual runs. The one I did not run out of gas, I had issues with the quality of my driving and some traffic. I ended up in the B-main. In the main, my engine would not start so I ended up with less than a minute of warmup which proved to be an issue as well. We were not able to get the engine tuned properly so the engine stalled on my first pit stop. A few mins after my first stop I popped a camber link off and the engine also stalled again. We got both of those issues fixed but it was of course way too late to try and make up 4 laps so I rode around the track knowing I was going to be marshalling the next race, and not racing. Overall I had a lot of fun and got to see some people that I don't get to see too often and that is what it is all about.
08-09-2006, 07:35 AM
#5722
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Not good. I ran out of gas or had to pit in 4 of my 5 qual runs. The one I did not run out of gas, I had issues with the quality of my driving and some traffic. I ended up in the B-main. In the main, my engine would not start so I ended up with less than a minute of warmup which proved to be an issue as well. We were not able to get the engine tuned properly so the engine stalled on my first pit stop. A few mins after my first stop I popped a camber link off and the engine also stalled again. We got both of those issues fixed but it was of course way too late to try and make up 4 laps so I rode around the track knowing I was going to be marshalling the next race, and not racing. Overall I had a lot of fun and got to see some people that I don't get to see too often and that is what it is all about.
There is no way you are up this early? You must not have gone to bed yet?
08-09-2006, 09:58 AM
#5723
i'M ABOUT TO REPLACE MY YELLOW CLUTCH SHOE FOR A NEW ONE, IT HAD OVER 10 HOURS RACING, AND THE BELL IS ABOUT TO BE TOUCHING THE PLATE, HAS ANY0NE TRIED TO USE SHIMS BETWEEN THE PLATE AND THE SHOE, IN ORDER GAIN A FEW 0.03-5mms THEREFORE, HAVING MORE LIFE ON THE SHOE?
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
08-09-2006, 02:53 PM
#5724
Originally Posted by Seisick
i'M ABOUT TO REPLACE MY YELLOW CLUTCH SHOE FOR A NEW ONE, IT HAD OVER 10 HOURS RACING, AND THE BELL IS ABOUT TO BE TOUCHING THE PLATE, HAS ANY0NE TRIED TO USE SHIMS BETWEEN THE PLATE AND THE SHOE, IN ORDER GAIN A FEW 0.03-5mms THEREFORE, HAVING MORE LIFE ON THE SHOE?
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
08-09-2006, 06:35 PM
#5725
I can attest to what Wallyedmonds sais. I just came back from the GLC. The track there is a great place to test your clutch. I had a hard time getting the clutch settup by myself. I actualy didn't know what I was doing till I was told by a great person from Canada what I was doing wrong. I had my engines comeing in at 360 and 365, two runs back to back! Engine now is excellent after setting the clutch properly. Shoe and spring are key and adjustment of them is even more important!
08-10-2006, 12:00 AM
#5726
Originally Posted by Seisick
i'M ABOUT TO REPLACE MY YELLOW CLUTCH SHOE FOR A NEW ONE, IT HAD OVER 10 HOURS RACING, AND THE BELL IS ABOUT TO BE TOUCHING THE PLATE, HAS ANY0NE TRIED TO USE SHIMS BETWEEN THE PLATE AND THE SHOE, IN ORDER GAIN A FEW 0.03-5mms THEREFORE, HAVING MORE LIFE ON THE SHOE?
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
I HAVE ACCESS TO 3X4X0.2MM SHIMS AND IM' ALSO GOING TO TRYI A LARGE SHIM BUILT THAT WILL BE SEATED ON THE ENTIRE PLATE.WITH A THICKNESS OF ABOUT 0.3-05MM
INPUTS APPRECIATED
Yes, you can save money by doing that.
08-10-2006, 04:42 AM
#5727
Tech Adept
shimming under the shoe is probably not the best way to go. Shoe don't just wear in depth, it also wear on an angle. If you look closer, the ring that wears agains the bell is wider as the shoe wears.
If you do shim it, I would suggest you glue the gasket on the plate. As the shoe moved, the gasket could moved and jam the clutch!
If you do shim it, I would suggest you glue the gasket on the plate. As the shoe moved, the gasket could moved and jam the clutch!
08-10-2006, 06:55 AM
#5728
asw, do you glue them? nice idea since using a metal shim means more weigth,the gasket could do the same but with less rotating mass.
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
08-10-2006, 06:58 AM
#5729
Originally Posted by Seisick
asw, do you glue them? nice idea since using a metal shim means more weigth,the gasket could do the same but with less rotating mass.
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
