Hi Guys,

need your recommendations for servos on my new X4, whats best for the throttle and steering, I use M11 27 MHz Tx and Rx...

From my opinion you don’t really need to use difference servo between throttle and steering since the car is so light. Unlike on road 8th or off road 8th the cars are heavier and faster.

I am using Sanwa VRG-VRX on throttle and steering.

I am going to run a JR Z8800S in the steering and just a standard servo in the throttle brake. Personally i dont think that you need a high speed or high torque servo on the throttle, but thats just my opinion.

Cheers Daniel

i use the sanwa ERG VX massive toeque man!

just a quick question i have mtx3 cvds on the 4 i haven't finished building it and i am waiting on monotuning parts to funish it my question is can i fit the longer cvd's fromt he 3 on the 4? i put the frnot 3 cvds on the front of the 4 and rears on rears but the rear pin just hits the diff outdrive. i don't remember which cvd is longer on the mtx3 but i am guessing the longer one will fit fine right??

man the construction on this thing is stretching out too long!! to many option parts i want to add before it even hits the ground

I added a lot of option parts, they are all off the car now except for the vented brake disk and the front CVD's. I also have the shock towers I cut.. The car works best without the BLING. Front CVD's are longer. The rear CVD's I think are available now along with the teflon brake pads.

hiya folks!

I just finished up with a race and i noticed just before the race that the clutch bell rubs on the clutch shoe when pressed in, the clutch is built according to the kit instructions.
apparently, the clutchbell well in which the 2 5x8 bearings sit in is too deep
( to be precise 0.9mm too deep).
to remedy this, i bought a packet of 5mm shims from HPI ( get the ones which are ID5mm, OD6mm)
i started adding shims between the clutch nut ( ho704) and the closest bearing till the clutch was freely spinning. i eventually added the whole pack of 10x 0.1mm thick shims ( that would make it a 0.9 mm depth i had to shim up).
if your clutch bell is sticking to the clutch when you push it in, like mine.
go get the shims and add it on, otherwise your clutch may overheat and break during hard racing.
i'm seriously surprised that there is no instruction in the manual about this part of clutchbell shimming. only about clutch gap shimming ( its not the same!)
i guess thats why Mugen makes pro cars.... we gotta figure the car out ourselves....hyucks
-alexander

Heya guys, quick question, im running the mtx-4 with the 3PK radio gear + spectrum. After endless hours on playing around with the settings i cant seem to adjust the built in failsafe feature thats available with this radio? I also run elec which i ve managed to adjust the failsafe feature (in PCM mode) with no probs, just this new PPM mode is giving me grief, any help would be greatly appreciated as im about to adjust me radio with the mallet!

Regards.

those shims will damage the bearings since the outer edge touches the bearings, you need serpent 1093 which are 5x6.8x0.1mm or something similar.tower has several parts for it.
NEW MUGEN REAR UNIVERSALS T0274 WILL FIT ONLY X4 REAR.
MTX3 FRONT OR REAR UNIVERSAL WILL FIT ONLY X4 FRONT. USE X3 REAR IF LESS BINDING IS DESIRED!
TESTED

the thing bout u setting the failsafe with spektrum is that u have to set the failsafe position when u bind the tx to the rx. u dont have to use the built in failsafe of the 3pk but instead when u bind ur rx to ur tx u have to hold the trigger to the desired brake position and the setting will be saved. hope this helps

Has anyone else had trouble getting the front bearings on the one way? I pretty much had to press them onto the one way. It is very doubtfull that they will ever come off without destroying the bearings.

Hiya!

oh yes! thats right, just make sure that the shims you use must be really tiny!
they must only touch the INNER RACE of the 5x8mm bearings in the clutch bell.
if you use wider shims, they will either:
-hit the clutchbell and cause binding or
-squish against the 5x8mm bearing OUTER race and cause binding.
i got mine from HPI but the serpent ones will work as well it seems.
the other item i am rather miffed about is the material of the battery mount.
it is made of a very soft plastic and once deformed, it will NOT return to shape.. my mount is now longer then the hole in the chassis.. i had to make a graphite plate to replace it( graphite doesn't stretch....) handling doesn't seem affected for now cause the plate i use is only 2 mm and has sufficient holes in it to be flexible.
to all MTX4 users, pls save your clutch bells and shim them well.
-alexander
p.s. merry christmas!
p.p.s. if santa is hearing this, i want an eddy current type engine dyno....

I don't have a MTX-4 yet but seriously contemplating on getting one for next season. One question, could you use the MTX-3 clutch bell with the 0.8 pitch gears in place of the MTX-4 clutchbell?

Hey Uriah,

I had a little bit of trouble with the right side but not enough to have to force it in. Sounds like the oneway housing wasn't machined enough.

the magiciansave me some of that track at the winter wind up

No the gear ratio will be to low on your roll out. The new bell uses smaller bearings and uses smaller tooth pinions. I don't think that the engine slots will even let you move it far enough forward. The diffs are smaller in diameter so they have a fewer amount of teeth and because of this you run less teeth on the pinions to get the same roll out.