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Old 02-16-2006, 08:33 PM   #3421
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any store in la or orange county i can go to to get this car cheap? Does nitro house take walkins? i think they are in mission V. Any other ideas post um. Coming up for a little R&R from AZ Should be fun.
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:57 PM   #3422
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There is really nowhere to buy the car "cheap." Your best bet is to look on ebay and wait for a good deal. RC Mushroom had them for $380, but now their price is $459 like everyone else. I was lucky enough to get one at the lower price. It is well worth the price though.
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:30 PM   #3423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BubonicX
any store in la or orange county i can go to to get this car cheap? Does nitro house take walkins? i think they are in mission V. Any other ideas post um. Coming up for a little R&R from AZ Should be fun.
Best price I found is at Ultimate Hobbies for about $430
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Old 02-17-2006, 12:03 AM   #3424
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Hi guys.. sorry if i post it in the wrong place.

I have a used MTX-4 for sale for about US$300 shipped.

It's just the rolling chassis. PM me for pics if anybody is interested.
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Old 02-17-2006, 08:27 AM   #3425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
Kawahara makes them.
It's what I use on my car. Very convenient. If anyone is interested, contact me. I can put a new Kawahara double-cam front anti-roll bar on ebay.

Last edited by going4#1; 02-20-2006 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 02-17-2006, 01:39 PM   #3426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burito
Actually removing weight where the battery sits is the worst spot to get rid of weight... Many people add weight below the tank!

I'm going to test a brass battery holder (that thingy which is made out of plastic normally...) with a 1500mAh LiPo pack and an LRP prototype 6V regulator.
This entire combo (brass, LiPo, regulator) does actually weigh 50g more then a normal holder with NiMH pack but I got the weight where I want it, have tremendous capacity and a consistent BEC voltage for long finals. This results in consistent steering and brake since the servo torque/speed is no more dependant to battery voltage.
Well said Reto...

Got tired on infinity number of threads that the worst thing anyone can do is to remove weight from the underside of the car. Let's see if anyone takes into account what you told.

BTW: Brass??? Isn't better to make a slightly lighter piece rather than brass (and less prone to shorts) and make some battery slots (ala electric chassis). Or better than... make a monoblock with LiPo battery and battery holder?
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 02-17-2006, 01:44 PM   #3427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Im still waiting to get my scale to weigh in mine. I already changed 98% of my screws to titanium ones. Which should give me about 30 grams less (according to other people here). I'll post some pics at the end of the week about the home mods i have done to make this a better tank.
Why to remove those precious grams of the steel screws of the underside of the chassis? It's better to invest only on the upper side screw set (Mugen... at last got clever and divided their Ti screws on upper and lower side).

Is cheaper and you got much better effect keeping the steel ones on the underside.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:54 PM   #3428
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I prefer taking off the weight of all screws and the ones of the drivetrain, then add the weight wherre the battery sits. Which should give me an even lower cg without sacrificing running slower due to weight.
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:59 PM   #3429
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the battery thing sounds pretty cool but also sounds like a lot of work (to me anyways). so i'll just stay with my skyline 1400mah battery. last time i cycled it, it peaked at 1435mah (using pulsar2 charger). way better than the 900mah i used to get with my mtx-3
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Old 02-17-2006, 03:10 PM   #3430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
I prefer taking off the weight of all screws and the ones of the drivetrain, then add the weight wherre the battery sits. Which should give me an even lower cg without sacrificing running slower due to weight.
Do a quick check... drive your car with all the steel screws on the underside and drive it with the Ti ones, there are enough screws just to make some difference, found that steel screws on the lowest part of the car makes mine more stable and easier to roll on turns, just do a honest try and judge for yourself.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 02-17-2006, 04:14 PM   #3431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
It's what I use on my car. Very convenient. If anyone is interested, contact me. I can put a new set up on ebay.
What do you want for them?
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Old 02-17-2006, 06:03 PM   #3432
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Default inconsistent shifting

help on inconsistent shifting 1st to 2nd gear
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Old 02-17-2006, 06:15 PM   #3433
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adjust the 2 speed shoes with some gap.......
and be sure both springs are equally tensioned
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:14 PM   #3434
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Default shock length

What is the shock length of the front and rear shocks?
With the shock stretched all the way out.


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Old 02-17-2006, 08:02 PM   #3435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.TUNED
help on inconsistent shifting 1st to 2nd gear
Check your engine that isnt that rich. A rich engine can produce inconsistant shifting due to the change of RPM. If the engine is fine, adjust the clutch shoes like the manual says. The gap it mentions, is the gap between the whole clutch shoes, not the shoes and the center part.
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