Kyosho v-one rrr
03-06-2007, 07:08 PM
#8941
Originally Posted by Dredd
right that's what I said it doesn't move. I think someone asked me if it moved when I did not touch the throttle. I'm just not sure what's right and what's wrong with this clutch setup. I understand there is not immediate engagement and there is a lag, but just how much is too much? If I could just get an idea of how much throttle is needed generally speaking before the clutch engages and the car moves it will help me determine if it's right.
Just drive the car and over the next few sessions, you'll figure it out. Ask some of the more experienced guys to take control of your car and they will tell you what you need to fix, if anything. At this point, I don't think anyone can help you with your issue over the Internet. They need to drive your car.
IMO, the biggest difference between amatuers and pros is finger control. The pros can move their throttle finger in any direction, at a very controlled rate, to the amount that will properly adjust the accelleration or braking of the car based on where the car is on the track. This applies to engaging the clutch as well. And what does it take to be able to do this? Practice and experience.
You're going to get grey hairs worrying about stuff like this.
Just go out and have some fun. 
03-06-2007, 07:10 PM
#8942
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Some people will think this sounds funny coming from me - but you're over analyzing all of this.
Just drive the car and over the next few sessions, you'll figure it out. Ask some of the more experienced guys to take control of your car and they will tell you what you need to fix, if anything. At this point, I don't think anyone can help you with your issue over the Internet. They need to drive your car.
IMO, the biggest difference between amatuers and pros is finger control. The pros can move their throttle finger in any direction, at a very controlled rate, to the amount that will properly adjust the accelleration or braking of the car based on where the car is on the track. This applies to engaging the clutch as well. And what does it take to be able to do this? Practice and experience.
You're going to get grey hairs worrying about stuff like this. Just go out and have some fun.
Just drive the car and over the next few sessions, you'll figure it out. Ask some of the more experienced guys to take control of your car and they will tell you what you need to fix, if anything. At this point, I don't think anyone can help you with your issue over the Internet. They need to drive your car.
IMO, the biggest difference between amatuers and pros is finger control. The pros can move their throttle finger in any direction, at a very controlled rate, to the amount that will properly adjust the accelleration or braking of the car based on where the car is on the track. This applies to engaging the clutch as well. And what does it take to be able to do this? Practice and experience.
You're going to get grey hairs worrying about stuff like this.
Just go out and have some fun. 
probably, but I don't know if I'm burning anything up so that's why the big deal for me.
03-06-2007, 07:14 PM
#8943
I don't know about the steering thing guys. Both of my RRR are at 100% and they don't turn like the MTX-4 at 100%. Are you guys running on sweeping tracks or technical tracks. I'm on a very technical track. I guess I'll just have to try it and find out for myself. 
03-06-2007, 07:15 PM
#8944
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I don't know about the steering thing guys. Both of my RRR are at 100% and they don't turn like the MTX-4 at 100%. Are you guys running on sweeping tracks or technical tracks. I'm on a very technical track. I guess I'll just have to try it and find out for myself.
03-06-2007, 07:50 PM
#8946
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I don't know about the steering thing guys. Both of my RRR are at 100% and they don't turn like the MTX-4 at 100%. Are you guys running on sweeping tracks or technical tracks. I'm on a very technical track. I guess I'll just have to try it and find out for myself.
and my dual rate is set 80% epa set at 65-75% depending on track conditions. 
03-06-2007, 11:44 PM
#8947
Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson
Try .5-1.0 toe out in the front see what happens and my dual rate is set 80% epa set at 65-75% depending on track conditions.
and my dual rate is set 80% epa set at 65-75% depending on track conditions. 
03-06-2007, 11:55 PM
#8948
Originally Posted by GMartinez
Your theory will be conclusive like mine was there both great cars it all comes down to which car you know better
I made a statement quite a while back in the UE thread and I am out to prove that what I said was fact.
Originally Posted by GMartinez
... & I don't understand how you can have more steering on the Mtx 4 than the rrr I always wind up having to much steering on mine so it all comes down to set up
03-07-2007, 12:08 AM
#8949
Just added the adjustable rear sway bar, do I need to readjust the balllink's because the sway bar arms look very close, here are pics of the car on blocks with no tires. If there is a certain mm needed for the ball links where can I find them..
info is needed
info is needed
03-07-2007, 12:35 AM
#8950
Didn't this thing come with any instructions?? 
I don't have this swayblade, but I do have the Kawahara version. Put the car up on a car stand, remove the shocks and adjust the ball links so that when you turn the blades 90 degress, it isn't touching the brake bracket. 1.0 mm clearance should be sufficient.
After you've made the adjustment, put the shocks back on and make sure that the blue piece isn't touching the belt. If it is, let us know.
I don't have this swayblade, but I do have the Kawahara version. Put the car up on a car stand, remove the shocks and adjust the ball links so that when you turn the blades 90 degress, it isn't touching the brake bracket. 1.0 mm clearance should be sufficient.
After you've made the adjustment, put the shocks back on and make sure that the blue piece isn't touching the belt. If it is, let us know.
03-07-2007, 12:47 AM
#8951
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Didn't this thing come with any instructions??
I don't have this swayblade, but I do have the Kawahara version. Put the car up on a car stand, remove the shocks and adjust the ball links so that when you turn the blades 90 degress, it isn't touching the brake bracket. 1.0 mm clearance should be sufficient.
After you've made the adjustment, put the shocks back on and make sure that the blue piece isn't touching the belt. If it is, let us know.
I don't have this swayblade, but I do have the Kawahara version. Put the car up on a car stand, remove the shocks and adjust the ball links so that when you turn the blades 90 degress, it isn't touching the brake bracket. 1.0 mm clearance should be sufficient.
After you've made the adjustment, put the shocks back on and make sure that the blue piece isn't touching the belt. If it is, let us know.
, this is a factory kyosho part vzw204 thanks for the help, I will adjust tomm and let you know the outcome
03-07-2007, 04:26 AM
#8952
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
Yea it came with instructions, but says nothing about readjusting the ball links and if it does it is in japan writing , this is a factory kyosho part vzw204 thanks for the help, I will adjust tomm and let you know the outcome
, this is a factory kyosho part vzw204 thanks for the help, I will adjust tomm and let you know the outcomeHere's how I adjust them:
Initially, with the car on blocks, I set the link arms to make sure (as rmd said) there is clearence between the brake / swaybar bracket and the sway blades itself. (First adjustment)
After this, I use my Hudy tweak station placed under the front wheel to give me a reading for the rear of the chassis. I then disconnect one of the link arms (either side on top) and check to make sure there is no tweak registered on the chassis.
If there is any tweak, I make the needed adjustments first to make sure the chassis is perfectly true. All this while still on the Hudy uprights.
I then look to clip the link arm back into place. However and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I make sure the link arm hole lines up perfectly with the link ball on the blade. If not, I adjust the arm on the side I disconnected to ensure perfect alignment.This is to ensure that when clipped back into place, it does not put back tweak on the chassis.
I then double check my tweak to ensure I am good.
It may sound like alot but literally takes me about 5 mins.
Hope this info helps.
03-07-2007, 07:02 AM
#8953
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
#10 Ackermann
Is anybody using it and is there understeer on exit as has been mentioned in the KB? The reason I'm asking, is that the MTX-4 out of the box has a ton of steering. I wouldn't mind having that much steering on my RRRs.
I'm going to be racing the MTX-4 in sedan while I rebuild both of my RRRs. My bearings are all starting to go bad.
In Outlaw this past weekend, the MTX-4 was awesome - and I was just running a stock 3-port TZ. 
Out on the track, the MTX-4 is a keeper. The car drives really nice with a front diff using 30K front and 10K rear Kyosho diff oil.
The real test for me in comparing the RRR with the MTX-4 will be how well I do in sedan. If I qualify and/or finish higher than I've placed in the past, it will finally prove my theory that the MTX-4 is a better car out of the box.
Now before anyone gets their panties in a knot, know that I won't be getting rid of my Kyoshos any time soon. If I actually do better with the MTX-4 (and I'm highly motivated to do bette), I have to figure out what I've been doing wrong with the Kyoshos.
Is anybody using it and is there understeer on exit as has been mentioned in the KB? The reason I'm asking, is that the MTX-4 out of the box has a ton of steering. I wouldn't mind having that much steering on my RRRs.
I'm going to be racing the MTX-4 in sedan while I rebuild both of my RRRs. My bearings are all starting to go bad.
In Outlaw this past weekend, the MTX-4 was awesome - and I was just running a stock 3-port TZ. Out on the track, the MTX-4 is a keeper. The car drives really nice with a front diff using 30K front and 10K rear Kyosho diff oil.
The real test for me in comparing the RRR with the MTX-4 will be how well I do in sedan. If I qualify and/or finish higher than I've placed in the past, it will finally prove my theory that the MTX-4 is a better car out of the box.
Now before anyone gets their panties in a knot, know that I won't be getting rid of my Kyoshos any time soon. If I actually do better with the MTX-4 (and I'm highly motivated to do bette), I have to figure out what I've been doing wrong with the Kyoshos.
From what I have seen and driven, nothing turns like a Kyosho.
Around here, you will never hear a Kyosho driver say, "I need more steering".
03-07-2007, 07:16 AM
#8954
Originally Posted by jag
Don't forget that you have been running the Mugen with a lola body and the Kyosho with a TC body. You may find that has something to do with it. What are you using in the front (one-way, diff, solid) of the Kyosho?
From what I have seen and driven, nothing turns like a Kyosho. Around here, you will never hear a Kyosho driver say, "I need more steering".
From what I have seen and driven, nothing turns like a Kyosho.
Around here, you will never hear a Kyosho driver say, "I need more steering".- Tom
03-07-2007, 07:17 AM
#8955
Originally Posted by jag
Don't forget that you have been running the Mugen with a lola body and the Kyosho with a TC body. You may find that has something to do with it. What are you using in the front (one-way, diff, solid) of the Kyosho?
From what I have seen and driven, nothing turns like a Kyosho. Around here, you will never hear a Kyosho driver say, "I need more steering".
From what I have seen and driven, nothing turns like a Kyosho.
Around here, you will never hear a Kyosho driver say, "I need more steering".I run 2 RRR's. One with a TC body and the other a GTP/Lola. The GTP will turn on a dime and I therefore have to adjust my driving style to suit. Whereas the TC body will turn wider.
Both chassis have the EXACT same suspension settings, diff, shore tires etc.
I have however, started playing around with the role center on the TC body to compensate and have been very pleased so far. I can now get it to turn very close like my GTP.