jeff1

jeff1

Hi! "after cooked my brain" I finally fixed the problem! .. the ball ends were the problem I replaced them and everything is moving smoothly
They start to rubbing after a crash, I ran 15 tanks in this way and didn't notice nothing
Thank you so much!

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Robert yes its a bit easier to under stand..

just a couple of qs..

whats the best way to se them up?
Are they used for adjusting tweak?
are they adjusted so that the left and right arms raise at the same time when lifting each arm?

thanks for your help

ae_ntc3

sometimes when you adjust your front droop, no matter how much you unwind the droop screw the wheel never seems to drop level with the other one (this is because of the front swaybar); well thats when you use the left/right eccentrics to bring the arm equal with the other one. then you fine tune your droop with the droop screws.
this is how i understand it.

SOLOARTIST 702

when you adjust droop you disengage your sway bars anyway right so that you set them equal let me know if im wrong

robert maestrey

Ok first of all alot of people do there droop in different ways so ill give you my way and by no means am i saying this is the only way....OK

1. I set my eccentrics to parallel to the a-arms and tighten.
2. disconnect sway bar only removing the left sway leaving right one in place...
3.then ill use my down-stop gauge slide under right A-arm and set to desired point.
4.now ill move over to left side of car and will tighten or loosen the down-stop screw to the point that it allows the left sway bar to slide into the right sway without affecting the down-stop setting on the right side....I hope i haven't lost you guys....
5. OK the right has stayed at its setting lets say 0 down-stop setting now check what the left is at.....if the left is at 0 also then your set......if not use the left eccentric to raise or lower the arm to achieve the correct down-stop setting to match the opposite side....


Remember to tighten back the eccentric and setscrew for the sway and your set...Hope this helps....

robert maestrey

well if they are not set correctly your car will be tweaked.....if your car is tweaked there are several variable that can cause it and your downstops might be fine.....but remeber you can have othere types of tweaks not related to downstop...

SOLOARTIST 702

thats the way i do mine thanks

nismo46

hi all,

i heard the EVO rear bulkheads are better than the stock ones what come with the rrr wce kit, can i puth these bulkheads without any modifications on my rrr wce?

thanks greetz marco

jag

I have been told that you can. The reason they are "better" is because they have more adjustment.

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

the only difference is that the evo rear bulkhead comes with more areas to mount your linkage. so more fine tuning options for the player

johnypiston

So thanks to people on this forum I was able to sort out my "belt-touching-the-manifold" and "brake-not-releasing-after-being-pulled" issues out. I have now broken the engine in and have taken a few exploratory fast laps. Though the car feels great, it is quite clear that it requires a prepped surface in order for the suspension to work at it's best. On the low grip untreated track surface I did my prelim testing on, the front was ALL OVER THE PLACE. The track is tight and might have been a little too technical for the car. On the other end of the handling spectrum, the car would throw the rear out if you gave it even half throttle coming out of a corner. Line the car up properly (slowly), and hit the throttle at the apex of the corner and the rear would slide out ..to the point where correction is required.
Not to worry though, nothing that thinner diff oil and a shock oil change cannot fix. But I will only try different settings when I get to try the car on a wide, flowing and prepared surface ...which will be when the racing season starts in January

What I wanted to ask is; seeing as my car is 100% stock (pics: http://www.featuredalbums.com/kmonale/gallery204), what upgrades would you guys say I ABSOLUTELY have to have before the season starts? I already have high torque digital servos and the Novarosi N12LL3 should cope just fine. Anything else that you would recommend?

Also, a large number of racers in my country drive the Mugen Seiki MTX4. They assure me I made a mistake with the RRR. Since I will be racing, I was going to buy a spare V-One RRR chassis for spares. Would it be better to rather buy an MTX4 and then keep switching between the two ....depending on the difficulty of getting parts? In other words, if my LHS can only get a specific RRR part next month ...I know I can at least race the MTX4 ...would that make sense?

Thanks

johnypiston

The picture link does not work ...I have added it in as an attachment

brc358

iTrader: (18)

Both cars are great cars to race. Anyone making a statement about you were wrong in buying the RRR,is showing their imaturity. Dont let anyone tell you that the RRR or the MTX4 is a mistake to have just becase they own the other car.
As long as the local hobby shop can give you the support you need, buy and race the car of your choice, RRR, MTX4, Serpent.
I myself have two RRRs, and one Mugen, and even though both cars drive entirely different from each other,I still run them all.

ziggy12345

I just posted this on another forum 3hobby.net

I have put everything on my RRR over the last 2 years and i have found that there are only a few bits that actually make a difference to the RRR.

3racing front roll bar holder (Increases front response)

Kyosho blade rear roll bar (better rear grip)

Kyosho long blue brake arm (No fade brakes)

Kfactory brake shoes (no fade brakes. DONT USE IN THE WET!) ask ben

Kfactory Brake shoe (Not for EVO)

Kfactory CVJs. (Stronger and longer pin). Only available on the rear with 0 offset tyres but better in low grip conditions

Ben is coming out with a diff drive cup thats a lot harder so no wear. get those when they come out.

Get 4 x 6 by 3 by 2.5 bearings and use the alternative rear upper swing arm link. (reduces lateral slop)

Get a full set of SHOOTER steel gears. They go up to 24T

Other options I have just fitted but have not tried are:

Kfactory chassis (Needed to run the middle mount)

Kfactory middle mount (You can change the front belt without taking it apart)

Dont bother with:

Titanium screws (Bling)
Ceramic bearings
Kfactory front bumper mount (too heavy)
Kfactory rear mount (bling)
Alloy pulleys (They cut the belts)
Any alloy mounts (They are heavier and the threads strip)
Alloy servo saver (heavier than plastic and no benefit)
The blue upper rear swing arm set. (Bad design)

Hope that helps

Cheers