Kyosho v-one rrr
06-02-2006, 05:54 PM
#7141
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
No thats a question coz of the ?
No its not a bad thing to fill the shocks. You cant fill them too much and should be completley full
No its not a bad thing to fill the shocks. You cant fill them too much and should be completley full
Does anybody know what is the ideal amount of rebound for a new shock?
06-02-2006, 05:57 PM
#7142
Originally Posted by kewdawg
I've added "bleeder holes" to the shock caps so they self-bleed. I, also, glued the bladder to the shock cap end so the oil doesn't creep under the bladder and throw off the dampening. Fill them up, screw on the cap and the excess oil will seep out the hole. They come out perfect every time. 
Getting the shocks even can be difficult.
06-02-2006, 06:02 PM
#7143
Originally Posted by jeff1
Yes 2 caster, one in the front and the other behind.
I followed the tip of the Knowledge base site, I bought 2 0.3mm shims and now is better. Where is better to put it? After the caster clip? My setup is one clip in front and the other behind. The upper arm is okay. But I´m with trouble with the lower arm. He´s grasping a lot, and the movement is not free like the upper, any advice?
Thanks a lot and congratulations for the site
I followed the tip of the Knowledge base site, I bought 2 0.3mm shims and now is better. Where is better to put it? After the caster clip? My setup is one clip in front and the other behind. The upper arm is okay. But I´m with trouble with the lower arm. He´s grasping a lot, and the movement is not free like the upper, any advice?
Thanks a lot and congratulations for the site
If the lower arm is binding, I would check the sway bar mount, polish the hinge pin and rebuild it. I find the suspension arms to be very free on my car without doing any custom work.
Good luck with the car. I hope you like it as much as we do.
06-02-2006, 06:22 PM
#7144
Originally Posted by jag
Where did you drill the hole? Can you post a picture?
Getting the shocks even can be difficult.
Getting the shocks even can be difficult.
06-02-2006, 06:34 PM
#7145
Originally Posted by jag
The amount of oil in the shock directly relates to how far/fast the shock will extend after it is compressed (rebound). When you fill the shock body and put the cap on some oil leaks out. It is important to make sure the shocks rebound the same. If you fill the shock and do not allow any oil to escape the shock may not compress completely, will rebound quickly and/or it can be difficult to compress. If you let a lot of oil escape the shock will not rebound at all. I do not know what is considered the ideal amount of rebound but my shocks will fully extend... slowly. After racing with the shocks a few times you will notice that the rebound will diminish. When they do not rebound at all, I rebuild them.
Does anybody know what is the ideal amount of rebound for a new shock?
Does anybody know what is the ideal amount of rebound for a new shock?
06-02-2006, 06:39 PM
#7146
Originally Posted by kewdawg
They're drilled like the Pro 4 shock caps. You'll need to use a really small bit. .055 inch, I believe. Not sure at the moment. I'll look into it. I just tried to match the hole with the hole in the Pro 4 shock cap. I don't have a digital camera, but I'll see if, I can get a good shot with my cell phone's camera. Keep your fingers crossed.
Thanks.
06-02-2006, 07:13 PM
#7147
Originally Posted by jag
My friend has a Pro 4. I will check it out.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Fill the shock body with oil and pump it a few times to get all the air bubbles to the top...let sit for a while and pump again....repeat until no more bubbles appear.
Then put the shock bladder onto the shock body allowing the excess oil to spill over. Then just screw on the shock cap.
Done properly, you will never have a problem with air in your shocks or too much oil. Next to the new Serpent shocks,I have found the Kyosho shocks to be the easiest to service and maintain.
06-02-2006, 09:25 PM
#7148
Originally Posted by dougday
You do not need holes in the shock cap to bleed Kyosho shocks.
Fill the shock body with oil and pump it a few times to get all the air bubbles to the top...let sit for a while and pump again....repeat until no more bubbles appear.
Then put the shock bladder onto the shock body allowing the excess oil to spill over. Then just screw on the shock cap.
Done properly, you will never have a problem with air in your shocks or too much oil. Next to the new Serpent shocks,I have found the Kyosho shocks to be the easiest to service and maintain.
Fill the shock body with oil and pump it a few times to get all the air bubbles to the top...let sit for a while and pump again....repeat until no more bubbles appear.
Then put the shock bladder onto the shock body allowing the excess oil to spill over. Then just screw on the shock cap.
Done properly, you will never have a problem with air in your shocks or too much oil. Next to the new Serpent shocks,I have found the Kyosho shocks to be the easiest to service and maintain.
06-02-2006, 09:30 PM
#7149
Originally Posted by dougday
You do not need holes in the shock cap to bleed Kyosho shocks.
Fill the shock body with oil and pump it a few times to get all the air bubbles to the top...let sit for a while and pump again....repeat until no more bubbles appear.
Then put the shock bladder onto the shock body allowing the excess oil to spill over. Then just screw on the shock cap.
Done properly, you will never have a problem with air in your shocks or too much oil. Next to the new Serpent shocks,I have found the Kyosho shocks to be the easiest to service and maintain.
Fill the shock body with oil and pump it a few times to get all the air bubbles to the top...let sit for a while and pump again....repeat until no more bubbles appear.
Then put the shock bladder onto the shock body allowing the excess oil to spill over. Then just screw on the shock cap.
Done properly, you will never have a problem with air in your shocks or too much oil. Next to the new Serpent shocks,I have found the Kyosho shocks to be the easiest to service and maintain.
06-02-2006, 09:51 PM
#7151
This mod was done because the shock cap would not go over the bladder without shifting it and allowing oil to seep up, over the bladder and under shock top. In addition to allowing air in the shock body. If, you can assemble your shocks with the shock cap going over the bladder cleanly, then no, it's not necessary to do this mod. It just makes building shocks a breeze, each time you need to do it. For someone like myself, who plays with shock oils during the set-up process, Its a very smart & efficient mod. 
06-03-2006, 11:45 PM
#7152
Tried the Hudy automatic today. What an amazing little machine. I need to work on the speed setting though - when someone comes asking, "What's that burning smell?", you know you're running it a bit too fast.
06-04-2006, 12:04 AM
#7154
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Tried the Hudy automatic today. What an amazing little machine. I need to work on the speed setting though - when someone comes asking, "What's that burning smell?", you know you're running it a bit too fast.
only a on switch and revese switch, and of course the auotmatic switch to move the blade. One for the return, One for the Stop and One is for the auto move and return ..
Or my is the old model ??
06-04-2006, 12:17 AM
#7155
how to prolong the second pinion gear ? I notice that when i completed the 7min 2nd heat, the teeth seems worn out pretty fast, and some even loose the teeth 
.... I do the right setting/alightment together with the spur gear but it seems 'eating up ' the teeth ... 
Or is it due to the weather or other factor?? My weather here averager is about 32 degree...Damn hot hot hot
And i running on a track similar to the last FEMCA taiwan race
.... I do the right setting/alightment together with the spur gear but it seems 'eating up ' the teeth ... Or is it due to the weather or other factor?? My weather here averager is about 32 degree...Damn hot hot hot
And i running on a track similar to the last FEMCA taiwan race