Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

I'm just guessing no one knows, because I've asked the same question...

acutts

It doesn't come as a unit you have to buy a number of separate parts to make one up .... bit silly if you ask me
I will dig around and se if I can find the part numbers

DaRollaRacer

The part numbers for the diff assembly are on page 37 of the manual.

Dave

Tommy Bergfeldt

I like the car planted in the rear, since i have a quite aggressive driving style (for example, i had about 3mm foam left on my left rear wheel after the main ) The traction was also a bit low so the 7000 wt diff helped the car to feel more planted (got a bit more corner entry steering too because of the loose diff). The steering was dead on, never driven such a fast yet easy to drive car.
Will try some rollcenter adjustments with the front upper A-arms this weekend.

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Dave. It's actually on pg. 36 in the manual.

VZ218
VZ012
BS107
VZ203
VZ204

About $45 retail to make it happen.

Dom

drfritz

And you will need to do some grinding on the case to clear the servo saver if you are running the #11.

Tommy Bergfeldt

Grinding? I've ran a front diff in my car for several tanks and it fits right in using the 11 saver, it's not loads of room left but it's clear from the servo saver.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Too funny. Next time, check the Knowledge Base.

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

Thanks!!

drfritz

Well you got lucky, I had to grind some off mine to keep it from hitting, it was just enough contact to bind up the steering. Are you running a tight belt or loose?

V1-RRR-WC

Hi Sparx,

This is good info.

My car is setup similar. I was having problems with the car wanting to push abit through the corners. (Very tight track) For this I removed the rear sway bar which increased rear traction, but I will surely try the 7000wt oil and the silver spring.

What about the dia of the tires? What you found to work best for you?

need-4-speed

iTrader: (5)

Just a tip: If your car is pushing that means the rear of the car has too much traction. By removing the rear sway bar you have actually made the push even worse. A better approach would be to flatten your front sway bar, then maybe stiffen the rear sway bar to free up the rear and give you more turn in. Another tuning option would be to dial out some rear toe. You can also increase the amount of droop in the rear to increase the response of your car when turning. There are a lot of tuning options to fix a push. Just try them one at a time until you hit the sweet spot. I hope this helps.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Excellent tip. I'll have to keep this in mind for the next race. I bet it works in the opposite direction as well.

Inside joke: I thought the Hokage outlawed Nitro racing in the Village? Have you and Naruto been at it again?

jeff1

Guys I am bulding a RRR is not WCE and I noticed a lot of play in the upper suspension arm I tried some shims combination but did not work.
Any sugestion?

Thanksss

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I'm assuming you used two caster clips for each upper suspension arm. How many mm of shims have you added so far? How much room do you have left?