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Old 05-30-2006, 12:23 PM   #7081
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Originally Posted by OVA
Where can I get or buy front diff assy or diff unit for ( V-one rrr)??
I'm just guessing no one knows, because I've asked the same question...
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:26 PM   #7082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I'm just guessing no one knows, because I've asked the same question...
It doesn't come as a unit you have to buy a number of separate parts to make one up .... bit silly if you ask me
I will dig around and se if I can find the part numbers
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:30 PM   #7083
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The part numbers for the diff assembly are on page 37 of the manual.

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Old 05-30-2006, 12:44 PM   #7084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Nice track.

I noticed that you have your car setup soft in the rear. You are running 7000 wt. in the rear with silver springs? Does this help plant the rear of the car? How is the steering with this setup?
I like the car planted in the rear, since i have a quite aggressive driving style (for example, i had about 3mm foam left on my left rear wheel after the main ) The traction was also a bit low so the 7000 wt diff helped the car to feel more planted (got a bit more corner entry steering too because of the loose diff). The steering was dead on, never driven such a fast yet easy to drive car.
Will try some rollcenter adjustments with the front upper A-arms this weekend.
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:56 PM   #7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaRollaRacer
The part numbers for the diff assembly are on page 37 of the manual.

Dave
Thanks Dave. It's actually on pg. 36 in the manual.

VZ218
VZ012
BS107
VZ203
VZ204

About $45 retail to make it happen.

Dom
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:00 PM   #7086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Thanks Dave. It's actually on pg. 36 in the manual.

VZ218
VZ012
BS107
VZ203
VZ204

About $45 retail to make it happen.

Dom
And you will need to do some grinding on the case to clear the servo saver if you are running the #11.
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:07 PM   #7087
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Grinding? I've ran a front diff in my car for several tanks and it fits right in using the 11 saver, it's not loads of room left but it's clear from the servo saver.
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:51 PM   #7088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I'm just guessing no one knows, because I've asked the same question...
Too funny. Next time, check the Knowledge Base.
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:09 PM   #7089
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Thanks!!
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:03 PM   #7090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
Grinding? I've ran a front diff in my car for several tanks and it fits right in using the 11 saver, it's not loads of room left but it's clear from the servo saver.
Well you got lucky, I had to grind some off mine to keep it from hitting, it was just enough contact to bind up the steering. Are you running a tight belt or loose?
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:32 PM   #7091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
I like the car planted in the rear, since i have a quite aggressive driving style (for example, i had about 3mm foam left on my left rear wheel after the main ) The traction was also a bit low so the 7000 wt diff helped the car to feel more planted (got a bit more corner entry steering too because of the loose diff). The steering was dead on, never driven such a fast yet easy to drive car.
Will try some rollcenter adjustments with the front upper A-arms this weekend.
Hi Sparx,

This is good info.

My car is setup similar. I was having problems with the car wanting to push abit through the corners. (Very tight track) For this I removed the rear sway bar which increased rear traction, but I will surely try the 7000wt oil and the silver spring.

What about the dia of the tires? What you found to work best for you?
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Old 05-30-2006, 05:45 PM   #7092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Hi Sparx,

This is good info.

My car is setup similar. I was having problems with the car wanting to push abit through the corners. (Very tight track) For this I removed the rear sway bar which increased rear traction, but I will surely try the 7000wt oil and the silver spring.

What about the dia of the tires? What you found to work best for you?
Just a tip: If your car is pushing that means the rear of the car has too much traction. By removing the rear sway bar you have actually made the push even worse. A better approach would be to flatten your front sway bar, then maybe stiffen the rear sway bar to free up the rear and give you more turn in. Another tuning option would be to dial out some rear toe. You can also increase the amount of droop in the rear to increase the response of your car when turning. There are a lot of tuning options to fix a push. Just try them one at a time until you hit the sweet spot. I hope this helps.
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Old 05-30-2006, 05:53 PM   #7093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by need-4-speed
Just a tip: If your car is pushing that means the rear of the car has too much traction. By removing the rear sway bar you have actually made the push even worse. A better approach would be to flatten your front sway bar, then maybe stiffen the rear sway bar to free up the rear and give you more turn in. Another tuning option would be to dial out some rear toe. You can also increase the amount of droop in the rear to increase the response of your car when turning. There are a lot of tuning options to fix a push. Just try them one at a time until you hit the sweet spot. I hope this helps.
Excellent tip. I'll have to keep this in mind for the next race. I bet it works in the opposite direction as well.

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Old 05-30-2006, 06:31 PM   #7094
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Guys I am bulding a RRR is not WCE and I noticed a lot of play in the upper suspension arm I tried some shims combination but did not work.
Any sugestion?

Thanksss
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:36 PM   #7095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
Guys I am bulding a RRR is not WCE and I noticed a lot of play in the upper suspension arm I tried some shims combination but did not work.
Any sugestion?

Thanksss
I'm assuming you used two caster clips for each upper suspension arm. How many mm of shims have you added so far? How much room do you have left?
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