Kyosho v-one rrr
#3376
Originally Posted by jas1
I,m after a bit of feedback from some experienced foam drivers on setting up my rrr, i generally run my car of rubber tyres, and have only dabbled with foams.
i nead a quick crash coarse, i am racing in the euros at the halifax trark in the uk in 4 weeks. it is my local track luckily but this sunday is gonna be my last chance to practice.
the track is large and fast flowing, but only mid-low grip most of the time. some bumpy sections also that can catch you out under braking also
any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers
i nead a quick crash coarse, i am racing in the euros at the halifax trark in the uk in 4 weeks. it is my local track luckily but this sunday is gonna be my last chance to practice.
the track is large and fast flowing, but only mid-low grip most of the time. some bumpy sections also that can catch you out under braking also
any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers
Change then roll centre at the front so the inserts have the pivot holes at the top. This gives you a sharp turn in. Caster clips can be all forward
You will find you need to trim the steering down so it doesnt spin out but you can use less lock so wont loose speed in the corners.
Use the solid front axle. If you can get a spare one way tube mod it to turn it into a solid as it's half the weight of the diff conversion.
Tyres are no bigger than 62 rear 60 front. Even 60/58 is good for a heat. If you can get the new Jacos I would try them.
I changed the battery pack for AAA and moved it forward. It lasts a final easy
Best of luck for the euros
#3377
Tech Regular
cheers ziggy i'm gonna need it.
been thinking of using a AAA battery pack, but running rubber tyres have the battery at the back, really strugguling to keep the back end planted running rubbers.
tried the 1 deegree castor blocks last sunday, they sharpened the front end up no end, just ordered some 2 deegree to try.
will give the solid a try, but the one way did feel pretty good, plus when grip comes up i would say you'll probably only need the brakes once a lap, but i will try it.
have found the car only seems too work on small tyres, only problem with that the engine is screaming its nads off at the end of the straight
been thinking of using a AAA battery pack, but running rubber tyres have the battery at the back, really strugguling to keep the back end planted running rubbers.
tried the 1 deegree castor blocks last sunday, they sharpened the front end up no end, just ordered some 2 deegree to try.
will give the solid a try, but the one way did feel pretty good, plus when grip comes up i would say you'll probably only need the brakes once a lap, but i will try it.
have found the car only seems too work on small tyres, only problem with that the engine is screaming its nads off at the end of the straight
#3378
Tech Rookie
servos?
i just got a rrr, i bought a serio .12 evo 3, an rd logics pipe, and i heard that some servos don't work well in some cars. i use a xs 3, and a rs 310 rx, can someone let me know what servos do well in this car?
#3379
Originally Posted by anthony750
i just got a rrr, i bought a serio .12 evo 3, an rd logics pipe, and i heard that some servos don't work well in some cars. i use a xs 3, and a rs 310 rx, can someone let me know what servos do well in this car?
#3380
Originally Posted by jas1
cheers ziggy i'm gonna need it.
been thinking of using a AAA battery pack, but running rubber tyres have the battery at the back, really strugguling to keep the back end planted running rubbers.
tried the 1 deegree castor blocks last sunday, they sharpened the front end up no end, just ordered some 2 deegree to try.
will give the solid a try, but the one way did feel pretty good, plus when grip comes up i would say you'll probably only need the brakes once a lap, but i will try it.
have found the car only seems too work on small tyres, only problem with that the engine is screaming its nads off at the end of the straight
been thinking of using a AAA battery pack, but running rubber tyres have the battery at the back, really strugguling to keep the back end planted running rubbers.
tried the 1 deegree castor blocks last sunday, they sharpened the front end up no end, just ordered some 2 deegree to try.
will give the solid a try, but the one way did feel pretty good, plus when grip comes up i would say you'll probably only need the brakes once a lap, but i will try it.
have found the car only seems too work on small tyres, only problem with that the engine is screaming its nads off at the end of the straight
#3381
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys. New to rc here.
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
#3382
Originally Posted by tiger266
Hi guys. New to rc here.
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Is this with the motor/clutchbell in the car?
#3383
Originally Posted by tiger266
Hi guys. New to rc here.
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
#3384
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by NiMo
You need to make this clearer.
Is this with the motor/clutchbell in the car?
Is this with the motor/clutchbell in the car?
its the gears that are connected to the chassis not the engine.
#3385
Originally Posted by tiger266
Hi guys. New to rc here.
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
#3386
Originally Posted by anthony750
i just got a rrr, i bought a serio .12 evo 3, an rd logics pipe, and i heard that some servos don't work well in some cars. i use a xs 3, and a rs 310 rx, can someone let me know what servos do well in this car?
If you plan on fitting these to a RRR, note that the 9451`s require different spacing to other servos (top of page 23).
#3387
Originally Posted by tiger266
Hi guys. New to rc here.
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
Right now when I hand-spin my first gear, my second gear spins too.
What i would like to know is whether the first gear is supposed to spin with the second gear or should the second gear remain still?
and also when I hand-spin my 2nd gear, my 1stgear spins too.
Should the 1st gear remain still when the second year is spinned?
Tiger
#3388
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by AndyT ©
If the engine is out, then both spur gears (the plastic gears) should spin freely of each other......with the engine and pinion gears in 1st and 2nd spur gears will rotate together.
#3389
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by anthony750
i just got a rrr, i bought a serio .12 evo 3, an rd logics pipe, and i heard that some servos don't work well in some cars. i use a xs 3, and a rs 310 rx, can someone let me know what servos do well in this car?
#3390
Originally Posted by tiger266
now that both are spinning together, how do i make them spin freely of each other? loosen the grub screw in the clutch?
If its dragging on the 2 speed shoes....check that youve wound in the grubscrews (the ones over the rollers) enough so theyre not protruding and dragging on the 2 speed case.
If theyre wound in and still the 2 speed case is dragging on the shoes.....then you may have wound the grubscrews in too far...these move the 2 speed shoes outwards (so it may "locked" in 2nd gear)...loosen them off a bit and then check to see if its rotating freely.....keep making very small adjustments to this till it rotates freely.
Cheers