Kyosho V-ONE RRR Shimo Edtion
10-04-2010, 07:18 AM
#226
Grind a set of tires down to the wheel and set your ride height to 1-3mm so that even if you end a race on the wheel you still have chassis height. This is very easy to even eyeball the height. I believe a wheel is something around 53mm, so a 60mm trued tire would give you 3.5mm + your base. your front at say 58mm would give you a rake angle of 1mm which is about right since most people setup 6 in back and 5 in front (whatever number)
I cut all of my tires with 1.5 degrees of camber so my ground wheels are cut that way as well with a bit of foam left on the outside edge and it leaves me with all of my normal starting settings.
10-04-2010, 07:49 AM
#227
nice tip but i asked something different.
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
10-04-2010, 10:16 AM
#228
I think the idea behind a stand up servo is "mass centralization". The closer the weight is to the car's polar moment of inertia, the faster the car will change directions and the more stable it will be. Standing the servo allows to move the weight closer to the center line of the car instead of hanging off the side of the chassis. On the other hand a laydown servo only lowers CG by about .001%.
On the laydown version the heavier section of the servo sits higher and further out. Just moving the heavier section inwards helps a little with the roll change. But standing the servo up also puts the heavier area right down on the chassis so the CG is slightly lower than it would be with the laydown servo and the mass weight is closer to the centerline. Improvement on both areas if even only marginal.
AFM
On the laydown version the heavier section of the servo sits higher and further out. Just moving the heavier section inwards helps a little with the roll change. But standing the servo up also puts the heavier area right down on the chassis so the CG is slightly lower than it would be with the laydown servo and the mass weight is closer to the centerline. Improvement on both areas if even only marginal.
AFM
10-04-2010, 12:55 PM
#229
nice tip but i asked something different.
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
My hudy gauge (stepped version) hangs on the edge of the chassis before it can read the real height of the bottom of the chassis. if you can measure the bottom accurately you are good, if you have to measure from the edge just add the thickness of the bevel to your measurement since it would be reading say 5mm, when the bottom was 4mm if the bevel was 1mm (which I think it is because the chassis is something like 3mm)
10-05-2010, 01:16 AM
#230
thank you Brian!
i will look more closer to find the right amount of mm that i must subtract.
i will look more closer to find the right amount of mm that i must subtract.
10-09-2010, 01:46 AM
#232
10-09-2010, 03:24 AM
#233
10-10-2010, 01:23 AM
#236
10-11-2010, 01:58 PM
#237
I have a Evo2 with the 2d clutch.
I am missing parts for about 30$ to build up an old 3d clutch, and I wonder if its worth the extra 50 to buy the shimo clutch instead?
I am missing parts for about 30$ to build up an old 3d clutch, and I wonder if its worth the extra 50 to buy the shimo clutch instead?
Shimo Clutch
10-11-2010, 05:55 PM
#239
I used one from Intellect. It is same as protek but cheaper.
Make sure the charge you use support Life. The Life cell has lower voltage.
http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....7744478e887bb5
Make sure the charge you use support Life. The Life cell has lower voltage.
http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....7744478e887bb5