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Old 10-04-2010, 08:18 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
hi guys!
i want to ask something.
when you set your rear height you set 1+ from that are you seeing in the tool? or 1.5mm?since the chassis has an angle and it is not straight like front.
so 1mm or 1.2-1.3mm more?
Paul Lemieux showed me how he does ride height and it's really useful for random tire sizes and your droop settings don't change this way so I haven't really adjusted ride height again since this trick.

Grind a set of tires down to the wheel and set your ride height to 1-3mm so that even if you end a race on the wheel you still have chassis height. This is very easy to even eyeball the height. I believe a wheel is something around 53mm, so a 60mm trued tire would give you 3.5mm + your base. your front at say 58mm would give you a rake angle of 1mm which is about right since most people setup 6 in back and 5 in front (whatever number)

I cut all of my tires with 1.5 degrees of camber so my ground wheels are cut that way as well with a bit of foam left on the outside edge and it leaves me with all of my normal starting settings.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:49 AM   #227
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nice tip but i asked something different.
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:16 AM   #228
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
all the rrr runs the stand up servo besides the rrr wc.
I think the idea behind a stand up servo is "mass centralization". The closer the weight is to the car's polar moment of inertia, the faster the car will change directions and the more stable it will be. Standing the servo allows to move the weight closer to the center line of the car instead of hanging off the side of the chassis. On the other hand a laydown servo only lowers CG by about .001%.
On the laydown version the heavier section of the servo sits higher and further out. Just moving the heavier section inwards helps a little with the roll change. But standing the servo up also puts the heavier area right down on the chassis so the CG is slightly lower than it would be with the laydown servo and the mass weight is closer to the centerline. Improvement on both areas if even only marginal.

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Old 10-04-2010, 01:55 PM   #229
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
nice tip but i asked something different.
when you take the number of mm for you height in the front you see 5mm-it's 5mm but in the rear you see 6mm but it is not 6mm because the chassis has an angle.
to be more clear.when you push the car down in the table and try to take a measurement of height you see 1mm of height.
i hope you understand now!
I understand, I just don't have a chassis in front of me (and I don't know how thick/old your chassis is) to measure for you and I'm not using the tools you are using to measure ride height so I tried to offer you advice based on experience but you can measure in many different ways. You can use the edge/back of the caliper from the top of the chassis down to the ground and subtract the chassis to get a number as well but the chassis could be 1mm thin in the back from age.

My hudy gauge (stepped version) hangs on the edge of the chassis before it can read the real height of the bottom of the chassis. if you can measure the bottom accurately you are good, if you have to measure from the edge just add the thickness of the bevel to your measurement since it would be reading say 5mm, when the bottom was 4mm if the bevel was 1mm (which I think it is because the chassis is something like 3mm)
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:16 AM   #230
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thank you Brian!
i will look more closer to find the right amount of mm that i must subtract.
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:06 PM   #231
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Default v one rrr shimo manual

Hi
can anyone tell me where to find the rrr shimo manual, or post a link to it. i can't find it on the kyosho websites.
thanks Ray
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:46 AM   #232
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http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...0EDITION_p.pdf
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Old 10-09-2010, 04:24 AM   #233
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http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=7912
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:04 PM   #234
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Default rrr shimo manual

thanks for that Seb0
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:15 AM   #235
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Default receiver battery

any tips on what receiver battery to get for the rrr shimo
thanks Ray
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:23 AM   #236
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any tips on what receiver battery to get for the rrr shimo
thanks Ray
get a LiFe.. i use the protek one.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:58 PM   #237
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I have a Evo2 with the 2d clutch.

I am missing parts for about 30$ to build up an old 3d clutch, and I wonder if its worth the extra 50 to buy the shimo clutch instead?
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:01 PM   #238
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Cool Shimo Clutch

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Originally Posted by Stusdal View Post
I have a Evo2 with the 2d clutch.

I am missing parts for about 30$ to build up an old 3d clutch, and I wonder if its worth the extra 50 to buy the shimo clutch instead?
I have the shimo edition, the clutch is smaller, lighter than the 3d. There is a drastic difference in performance and acceleration in my opinion.
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Old 10-11-2010, 06:55 PM   #239
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get a LiFe.. i use the protek one.
I used one from Intellect. It is same as protek but cheaper.

Make sure the charge you use support Life. The Life cell has lower voltage.

http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....7744478e887bb5
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:37 PM   #240
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Cool Battery

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Originally Posted by Griffo7 View Post
any tips on what receiver battery to get for the rrr shimo
thanks Ray
I use the orion 1100 life and position it on the left side of the chassis closer to the pipe to help balance it left to right, and it's only 70grams.
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