Serpent 710
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by MrChan
I 'm using these for both 710 and 950r
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3055
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3056
I'm using for steerign rod ...perfect fitting ....and never drop out.
I 'm using these for both 710 and 950r
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3055
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3056
I'm using for steerign rod ...perfect fitting ....and never drop out.
Mr. Chan, try this kyosho ball end, 1295KP. Together with the W0136 hard ball, their combo would not dissapoint you untill you sell your car.
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 251
Hi,
I have no slop on the steering because of this simple and easy trick.
I have taken the hairdryer of my sister.
I heatend the baalcups and all moving parts and moved them while heatening.
Then I let them cool down for a while and move them again.
After this check you can do this again if the slop is not completely gone.
Never use a paint remover for it, because they will let the parts melt!
It's a cheap and easy trick, and it's working really well.
The second thing that you can do is pollishing the balls a little.
I would use a scotty brite pad for this.
I didn't try it, but a friend of my said it should work.
I service my diff after every day of running.
I clean it completely and clean al things with hot water and a small amout of vinegar
I take a small pan, and put hot water in it aswell as some vinegar.
For the plastic parts I do not heat it to much, else the parts will melt.
For the aluminium or steel parts like you're brakedisk you can let the water and vinegar cook.
All the oil and dirt will come off, and the parts will look like new
This trick is also ideal for those alu shockbodies, only then you cannot use vinegar because of the teflon inside the bodies.
Try it some time, I know it sounds dumb but you'll be surprised
Thomas.
I have no slop on the steering because of this simple and easy trick.
I have taken the hairdryer of my sister.
I heatend the baalcups and all moving parts and moved them while heatening.
Then I let them cool down for a while and move them again.
After this check you can do this again if the slop is not completely gone.
Never use a paint remover for it, because they will let the parts melt!
It's a cheap and easy trick, and it's working really well.
The second thing that you can do is pollishing the balls a little.
I would use a scotty brite pad for this.
I didn't try it, but a friend of my said it should work.
I service my diff after every day of running.
I clean it completely and clean al things with hot water and a small amout of vinegar
I take a small pan, and put hot water in it aswell as some vinegar.
For the plastic parts I do not heat it to much, else the parts will melt.
For the aluminium or steel parts like you're brakedisk you can let the water and vinegar cook.
All the oil and dirt will come off, and the parts will look like new
This trick is also ideal for those alu shockbodies, only then you cannot use vinegar because of the teflon inside the bodies.
Try it some time, I know it sounds dumb but you'll be surprised
Thomas.
Originally posted by InitialD
It could be the diffs are slipping... But also check to see if the rear diff outdrives are not worned out by the dogbone pins.
It could be the diffs are slipping... But also check to see if the rear diff outdrives are not worned out by the dogbone pins.
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 251
Hi,
I use Serpent shockcapfoam in the diff outdrives and wheelaxles.
They reduce the wearing of the outdrives and wheelaxles.
I also use Tamiya's grease.
This combination is working fine for me, it only atracts a lot of dust!
I use Serpent shockcapfoam in the diff outdrives and wheelaxles.
They reduce the wearing of the outdrives and wheelaxles.
I also use Tamiya's grease.
This combination is working fine for me, it only atracts a lot of dust!
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Do you happen to know what XRay part number these ball joints are?
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3054
They are the single sided closed type. I saw Suruth's car used those on the steering linkage.
Cool. Do you happen to know what XRay part number these ball joints are?
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3054
They are the single sided closed type. I saw Suruth's car used those on the steering linkage.
You've really lost it ... errr, the RING I mean.
Originally posted by 840918001
Try it some time, I know it sounds dumb but you'll be surprised
Thomas.
Try it some time, I know it sounds dumb but you'll be surprised
Thomas.
Originally posted by PSI Racing
One of the Serpent guys said you could use 808327 Revision pins driveshafts 4-WD (8) or 808328 Revision pins driveshafts 2-WD (4) to reduce the wear on the outdrives.
One of the Serpent guys said you could use 808327 Revision pins driveshafts 4-WD (8) or 808328 Revision pins driveshafts 2-WD (4) to reduce the wear on the outdrives.
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Do you happen to know what XRay part number these ball joints are?
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3054
They are the single sided closed type. I saw Suruth's car used those on the steering linkage.
Cool. Do you happen to know what XRay part number these ball joints are?
http://www.mytsn.com/products/product.asp?prid=3054
They are the single sided closed type. I saw Suruth's car used those on the steering linkage.
I think... please double check upon purchase
Originally posted by Pyramid
Serpent guys has make more things complicated and harder for end user wanted to own/drivfe this car, unless users can get it done for free.
Serpent guys has make more things complicated and harder for end user wanted to own/drivfe this car, unless users can get it done for free.



