Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

i will post pictures soon ,there is a track closer but its small! i rather drive the 2 hours !

BaxterC

To that baeuty of a track that you race on, So would I ... The one that is 5 minutes away is tiny, if it is 200 meters long, then it is long compared to how long I think it is. I dont think you can get a 1\8th on it. I think I would struggle to get the motor to unload with the stock gearing. But it is close and I have permission to practise everyday after work and then only when I am not at gym with the honey. I think she will work me hard, but I dont mind, I need it. The tummy is getting a little out of hand. I would rather get my excersize running after a car on the track when I am alone practicing...

BaxterC

Marcos, Good luck with your meeting, it is nearly 5 PM here and I want to go home, so I will chat to ya later...

GlennCauley

iTrader: (3)

Hi BaxterC,

There are a lot of different opinions as to how to properly break in an engine... almost as many opinions as there are people you ask!

I have tried the slow break-in, idle-through-tanks method, and it resulted in slow engines. I have tried the "break it in the way you will race it" method, and it resulted in very strong, fast engines.

Here is a very good posting about engine break-in:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...WOT#post811370

Idling a new engine through a tank or two is useless and does nothing to break it in. In fact, it is very damaging to the engine since it results in premature piston/sleeve wear because the engine does not get up to operating temperature.

Hope this helps.

markp27

The important thing to do in a run-in is to heat-cycle. Therefore one of the most important points is to observe the temperature of the engine. Runing in an engine should not, as Glen has stated, be done by idiling the engine - this doesn't allow the engine to reach the optimum operating temperature.
Make sure you set your engine on the rich side and run the engine in the first couple of tanks no more than half throttle - use the HSN to maintain the temp @ 95-105 Degrees C or 200-220 Degrees F. Some say to run the eingine at WOT even at this stage, but my personal preference is to let the components bed-in and not stress them too heavily for the first couple of tanks. After the first couple of tanks then increase the throttle, but maintain the temp as above.

Other people have other break-in methods using WOT and higher temps - it is basically personal preference. The one which really doesn't work is letting the engine idle through a few tanks.

Cheers, Mark.

cox049

WOT has the purpose of letting through a LOT of fuel thus a LOT of oil -lubrication-. If the engine is rich enough on the first tanks it won't over-rev even if at WOT; it won't even engage 2nd gear.

If you idle tanks... it's best to cover the head with a piece of bicycle inner tube to let it warm up enough... anyway I prefer the "start the engine and do some laps" break-in system.

The engine is properly broken in when you take the glowplug off and feel no pinch at TDC with the engine HOT (at running temp). That is it can have pinch while cold and still be ready to race

markp27

Hi Cox,

What's your start-and-do-a-few-laps method? Sounds interesting - like varying the mechanical strain, too, if you run a few laps.

Cheers, Mark.

markp27

Anyone know if there is an alternative to the oil used for the air filter?

GlennCauley

iTrader: (3)

Buy a spray can of K&N Air Filter Oil... it will last you forever.

http://www.knfilters.com/clningacc.htm

cox049

It's making the engine do what it's going to do all its life, only slower at first; I don't get very frenzied about the brake-in... ppl normally blow their engines by leaning them too much "after" the brake-in is over

markp27

Thanks for the tip Glenn, I'll add it to the lube section of the FAQ.

Cheers, Mark.

Wap

what a great article. i learn a lot. All this time i have been doing it wrong. i can't wait to get my nova mega to "heat Cycle it" right.

InitialD

The new FC steering knuckles are better than the ones that come with the stock Impulse / 705. It makes use of smaller 10x15x4 bearings instead of the larger and heavier 10x19x5. Pivot balls are also lighter and shorter as they are made of hard coated aluminum instead of steel.

By itself, the old steering knuckles would already rub on certain wheel rims when new rims are mounted. But with the FC steering blocks that come stock with the 710, no problems at all. Of course if you hit and bend the rims, the knuckles may rub on the rims.

InitialD

Thanks for the info Kevin. We can always count on good information from the Dutch guys !

InitialD

All cars have their own teething problems. But whether it's solveable or if it's a serious problem that needs factory input, that's another question.

Take a look at the Serpent FAQ that markp27 composed and collected from time to time. You can download it from here. They contain most of the good stuff like tips and hints required to build the car correctly. Good luck with your choice.