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Old 04-26-2004, 08:33 AM   #8941
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Originally posted by BaxterC
Of coarse, with pics... which reminds me... how about some pics of da house, but I think maybe for security reasons dont post pics of your home... but remember that we do want to see it when its done. So you stay two hours away from the track that is far... is there one closer?

We have a couple of tracks, one is 5 minutes away, and the other is 45 minutes, and another about an hour, but that one is very square.
i will post pictures soon ,there is a track closer but its small! i rather drive the 2 hours !
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Old 04-26-2004, 08:42 AM   #8942
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Originally posted by Marcos.S710
i will post pictures soon ,there is a track closer but its small! i rather drive the 2 hours !
To that baeuty of a track that you race on, So would I ... The one that is 5 minutes away is tiny, if it is 200 meters long, then it is long compared to how long I think it is. I dont think you can get a 1\8th on it. I think I would struggle to get the motor to unload with the stock gearing. But it is close and I have permission to practise everyday after work and then only when I am not at gym with the honey. I think she will work me hard, but I dont mind, I need it. The tummy is getting a little out of hand. I would rather get my excersize running after a car on the track when I am alone practicing...
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Old 04-26-2004, 08:50 AM   #8943
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Originally posted by BaxterC
To that baeuty of a track that you race on, So would I ... The one that is 5 minutes away is tiny, if it is 200 meters long, then it is long compared to how long I think it is. I dont think you can get a 1\8th on it. I think I would struggle to get the motor to unload with the stock gearing. But it is close and I have permission to practise everyday after work and then only when I am not at gym with the honey. I think she will work me hard, but I dont mind, I need it. The tummy is getting a little out of hand. I would rather get my excersize running after a car on the track when I am alone practicing...
Marcos, Good luck with your meeting, it is nearly 5 PM here and I want to go home, so I will chat to ya later...
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:12 AM   #8944
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Default Re: Re: Engine break-in article in recent RC magazine

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Originally posted by BaxterC
Please let me know, cos I am a bit confused, I have taken bits from everywhere and come up with a rather extensive procedure that seems to work well, let me know what to do for the first tank please if you can.
Hi BaxterC,

There are a lot of different opinions as to how to properly break in an engine... almost as many opinions as there are people you ask!

I have tried the slow break-in, idle-through-tanks method, and it resulted in slow engines. I have tried the "break it in the way you will race it" method, and it resulted in very strong, fast engines.

Here is a very good posting about engine break-in:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...WOT#post811370

Idling a new engine through a tank or two is useless and does nothing to break it in. In fact, it is very damaging to the engine since it results in premature piston/sleeve wear because the engine does not get up to operating temperature.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:15 AM   #8945
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Default Re: Re: Engine break-in article in recent RC magazine

Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
Please let me know, cos I am a bit confused, I have taken bits from everywhere and come up with a rather extensive procedure that seems to work well, let me know what to do for the first tank please if you can.
The important thing to do in a run-in is to heat-cycle. Therefore one of the most important points is to observe the temperature of the engine. Runing in an engine should not, as Glen has stated, be done by idiling the engine - this doesn't allow the engine to reach the optimum operating temperature.
Make sure you set your engine on the rich side and run the engine in the first couple of tanks no more than half throttle - use the HSN to maintain the temp @ 95-105 Degrees C or 200-220 Degrees F. Some say to run the eingine at WOT even at this stage, but my personal preference is to let the components bed-in and not stress them too heavily for the first couple of tanks. After the first couple of tanks then increase the throttle, but maintain the temp as above.

Other people have other break-in methods using WOT and higher temps - it is basically personal preference. The one which really doesn't work is letting the engine idle through a few tanks.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:33 AM   #8946
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Default WOT

WOT has the purpose of letting through a LOT of fuel thus a LOT of oil -lubrication-. If the engine is rich enough on the first tanks it won't over-rev even if at WOT; it won't even engage 2nd gear.

If you idle tanks... it's best to cover the head with a piece of bicycle inner tube to let it warm up enough... anyway I prefer the "start the engine and do some laps" break-in system.

The engine is properly broken in when you take the glowplug off and feel no pinch at TDC with the engine HOT (at running temp). That is it can have pinch while cold and still be ready to race
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:59 AM   #8947
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Hi Cox,

What's your start-and-do-a-few-laps method? Sounds interesting - like varying the mechanical strain, too, if you run a few laps.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:39 AM   #8948
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Default Air filter oil

Anyone know if there is an alternative to the oil used for the air filter?
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:42 AM   #8949
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Default Re: Air filter oil

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Originally posted by markp27
Anyone know if there is an alternative to the oil used for the air filter?

Buy a spray can of K&N Air Filter Oil... it will last you forever.

http://www.knfilters.com/clningacc.htm
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:47 AM   #8950
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Cox,

What's your start-and-do-a-few-laps method? Sounds interesting - like varying the mechanical strain, too, if you run a few laps.

Cheers, Mark.
It's making the engine do what it's going to do all its life, only slower at first; I don't get very frenzied about the brake-in... ppl normally blow their engines by leaning them too much "after" the brake-in is over
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:43 PM   #8951
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Default Re: Re: Air filter oil

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Buy a spray can of K&N Air Filter Oil... it will last you forever.

http://www.knfilters.com/clningacc.htm
Thanks for the tip Glenn, I'll add it to the lube section of the FAQ.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2004, 06:01 PM   #8952
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Default Re: Re: Re: Engine break-in article in recent RC magazine

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi BaxterC,

There are a lot of different opinions as to how to properly break in an engine... almost as many opinions as there are people you ask!

I have tried the slow break-in, idle-through-tanks method, and it resulted in slow engines. I have tried the "break it in the way you will race it" method, and it resulted in very strong, fast engines.

Here is a very good posting about engine break-in:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...WOT#post811370

Idling a new engine through a tank or two is useless and does nothing to break it in. In fact, it is very damaging to the engine since it results in premature piston/sleeve wear because the engine does not get up to operating temperature.

Hope this helps.
what a great article. i learn a lot. All this time i have been doing it wrong. i can't wait to get my nova mega to "heat Cycle it" right.
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:57 PM   #8953
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Fliegel
Question on tires. Does the 710 have any problems with wheels fitting over the front hubs like the old impulse did? I know I had to look very carefully at the wheels I bought because they would rub against the hubs. Thanks.
The new FC steering knuckles are better than the ones that come with the stock Impulse / 705. It makes use of smaller 10x15x4 bearings instead of the larger and heavier 10x19x5. Pivot balls are also lighter and shorter as they are made of hard coated aluminum instead of steel.

By itself, the old steering knuckles would already rub on certain wheel rims when new rims are mounted. But with the FC steering blocks that come stock with the 710, no problems at all. Of course if you hit and bend the rims, the knuckles may rub on the rims.
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:57 PM   #8954
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Default Re: 808220 black/brown update

Quote:
Originally posted by KevinS
Got an answer from Serpent BeNeLux regarding the springsteel driveshafts. Translated from Dutch:

"Number 808220 has always been made by Hudy (the brown ones). The current black ones come from a different supplyer which offers the same quality."

Nothing to worry about then I guess... although the brown ones looked better.
Thanks for the info Kevin. We can always count on good information from the Dutch guys !
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:58 PM   #8955
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitro rookie
Have any of you guys running these Serpents run into any problems with them yet?
All cars have their own teething problems. But whether it's solveable or if it's a serious problem that needs factory input, that's another question.

Take a look at the Serpent FAQ that markp27 composed and collected from time to time. You can download it from here. They contain most of the good stuff like tips and hints required to build the car correctly. Good luck with your choice.
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