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Originally posted by GlennCauley :D I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who doesn't necessarily subscribe to the theory that "more expensive is always better" I too used to run expensive servos for both throttle and steering, but then realized that I didn't have to for throttle. Cheers guys! |
Originally posted by Marcos.S710 especially when i can get the Futaba S3004 for $8.99 at my local hobby shop, better than spending $80 to $100 on a digital servo that will perform just as good for throttle and brake duties!! |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Slowly the 710 is getting the
Originally posted by PSI Racing The only problem is I taught my wife about RC's, so it's not easy to pull that off. Second she's always online checking the bank account. It's not that bad though. She bought my 710 for me for Christmas, and she let me build it before Christmas. She also bought me a 1/10 gas stadium truck for my birthday last year, and a 1/8 on-road the year before. Plus I supposed to get a new motorcycle (2004 Yamaha R1) around May. She'd only get me a new engine if mine is broke. I just rebuilt it recently, so I don't think it's going to break anytime soon.:( |
Originally posted by GlennCauley :D I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who doesn't necessarily subscribe to the theory that "more expensive is always better" We need to start a club for the cheaper is always better guys. Never know where it could lead.:eek: We could even follow F1 and threaten a breakaway world race series if the manufacturers dont supply us with cheaper engines and tires:lol: |
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe Most definately not always better. I think that less expense was always better cause it meant you were going faster and not hitting and breaking much.:D |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
[B]Correct and not correct. It depends what type of Ti you use. Most types of Ti are softer than Steel (6AL-4V for a starter which is the most common Ti used in R/C cars). The problem is using the Ti correctly. For instance, you cant use Ti outdrives with steel pin dogbones as these will just cut through the Ti outdrives in a matter of runs. yet you can use the steel outdrives and use Ti dogbones without any great deal of wear over a full year. Probably because the titanium dogbones use steel pins (or at least the ones I had did). And you can't get them out to replace them as you can with the steel ones. :nod: |
Re: Slowly the 710 is getting there....
Originally posted by markp27 Well, I've cancelled my order for my 2106 Novamega engine with my LHS here in DE and am ordering it via those nice guys at The Border :nod: Now it can't be too long before I get the 710 onto the circuit. Tomorrow, the 705 makes its first venture onto the circuit since October - everything rebuilt, re-lubed and reset. In rebuilding the 705, I saw all the mistakes I made when I first built it last year. It was then my first RC and I thought I'd done a good job in building it - now I recognise that there were several things which I hadn't appreciated when I was building it. I just hope my engine still starts! :eek: :lol: |
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe My bad. I heard 60% from somewhere. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Slowly the 710 is getting there....
Originally posted by InitialD Euro ! 1 EUR = 1.23288 USD |
Originally posted by PSI Racing IMHO=in my honest opinion |
Re: Re: Slowly the 710 is getting there....
Originally posted by clmbia45 And it might not, with your Grosseshloshingeverwasser!:lol: |
Hi again, What do you guys normally do to break in your engines?
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Originally posted by rodrigo1508 Hi again, What do you guys normally do to break in your engines? Originally posted by BaxterC Well, this is a very contravercial subject, but from my research, I have found this. Here is what you do. With the engine in the car, Run the motor as slowly as you can and very rich, for about 2 minutes, then let the engine cool completely, then run it as slow as possible for another 2 minutes then let it cool completely, continue this for about 3 tanks. REMEMBER that when your motor stops to cool, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke. Once you have completed this, then start to cycle the engine in the 2 minutes by taking the revs slowly to about a 1/4 throttle, then down, let it cool again, do this twice, then take it to half throttle and down, but remember to be progressive, smoothly up, and smoothly down. Let it cool, do this twice, then to 3/4 throttle and down, do this twice, you are now ready to start to lean it out and get it up to race tuning. Remember to change your plug when you have finished. |
Originally posted by rodrigo1508 Hi again, What do you guys normally do to break in your engines? |
Originally posted by rodrigo1508 Hi again, What do you guys normally do to break in your engines? |
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