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-   -   Serpent 710 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/27070-serpent-710-a.html)

cow buster 03-15-2004 10:22 PM


Originally posted by BaxterC
Cow buster, you wanna bust some cows, coz then you NEED to move to the darkseid;) and get yourself a snake!!! anything else just seems slow... the futyre is now... life is a journey... Snake bites can be venomous and detrimental to your health... if you cant beat 'em, join 'em... :p :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol: :deathstar :deathstar :deathstar :deathstar :deathstar :deathstar


DARKSIDE:deathstar :deathstar

Oops, wrong to talk to IniD:eek: full of venomous slitering things:D At the local track it is the snakes that gets a beating:nod:

InitialD 03-15-2004 10:25 PM


Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Thanks for the sway bar tips guys! Thats what I thought, just wanted to make sure.:nod: One more thing, how do you get the two ends on the front sway dead center? Or does it not matter if one side is longer than the other? Thanks.
I may be wrong but I believe Julius mentioned that the front sway bar ball and cup piece need not be dead in the center. As long as you can get both sides of the front arms to have equal droop after you install the sway bars, that would already be good enough. See tips by Julius on the FAQ about setting the front droop.


Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
One more thing, how much ground clearance do you give your bodies? I like the top of my wheels to be right below the top of the opening on the wheel well. What do you guys usually do for clearance?
That is a good question. I never measure up mine but what I try to do (with some lack of artistic capabilities :rolleyes: :lol: ) is to cut and mount the bodyshell as low as you possibly can. Think aerodynamics ! :sneaky:

InitialD 03-15-2004 10:28 PM


Originally posted by cow buster
At the local track it is the snakes that gets a beating:nod:
Oh really?:rolleyes:

Go and hunt cows ! Not snakes ! Else, you'll forever confine your car to eating just tire dust and dirt from the snakes. :lol:

GoldFinger 03-15-2004 10:28 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
I would rather use a 3 mm allen (ball tip preferred) to unscrew the ball off from the tip on the linkage out from the 1.5 mm set screw. So after detaching the linkage, the set screw still remains on the arms.

The reasons for me to do this is as follows;

Firstly, Hudy does not make ball tip 1.5 mm which makes it difficult to access the set screw at an angle. Secondly, screwing and unscrewing the 1.5 mm set screw into and out of the plastic arm may loosen and weaken the threading. My 2 cents.

Sorry D, I meant the 1.5 set screw at stab balls (stabilizer both ends)

markp27 03-15-2004 10:29 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
with some lack of artistic capabilities :rolleyes: :lol:
You know why that is :sneaky: :lol: :lol: :lol:

InitialD 03-15-2004 10:31 PM


Originally posted by GoldFinger
Sorry D, I meant the 1.5 set screw at stab balls (stabilizer both ends)
Ahah... Ok. Well, that's a good idea too but I find that mounting it back equally can be a little time consuming especially when you already set it to a certain position at a certain distance from the edge. Any tips? I mount them at 3 mm from the edge by using a caliper's end.

InitialD 03-15-2004 10:34 PM


Originally posted by markp27
You know why that is :sneaky: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Don't jump to conclusions ! :sneaky: You and I are the same in that respect ! :lol:

Going by your definition of artistic by the photographs taken as a yardstick, I still have hope ! :lol:

border r/c 03-15-2004 10:38 PM

Serpent parts
 
just follow this link
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/home.php?cat=539
:nod:

markp27 03-15-2004 10:39 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
Don't jump to conclusions ! :sneaky: You and I are the same in that respect ! :lol:

Going by your definition of artistic by the photographs taken as a yardstick, I still have hope ! :lol:

Forgive me lord, the dark side affects me sometimes :eek: :lol: :lol:

BaxterC 03-15-2004 10:39 PM


Originally posted by cow buster
Oops, wrong to talk to IniD:eek: full of venomous slitering things:D At the local track it is the snakes that gets a beating:nod:
I dont believe you...:) It is like sayin the old ofna Z10 nitro IS the bomb and will whip anything.... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :cry: :cry:
ROTFWL and squealing for it to stop.

I am only playing Cow man... You telling me that the ntc3s are doing better than the serpents at your track??? I think it is because the serpent guys are playing with the setup as they have already found the 'sweet spot' but are looking to go WOT all the way round the track...:D

GoldFinger 03-15-2004 10:42 PM


Originally posted by InitialD
Ahah... Ok. Well, that's a good idea too but I find that mounting it back equally can be a little time consuming especially when you already set it to a certain position at a certain distance from the edge. Any tips? I mount them at 3 mm from the edge by using a caliper's end.
Till now, I always mount it outermost so my thumbs is really helpfull.
And untill now im still not using that kungfu.. you know.. add more front traction by reducing rear traction. Im still add.. add.. more traction each side where i needed. And apparently this snake is able to handle that, not maximum yet but getting better and better.

Marcos.J 03-15-2004 10:45 PM

question for InitialD
 
what can i get from making the front shocksmore vertical? also adding the red springs? i have the stock set up but im trying to improve it , i race on high speed smooth tracks. Help if you can, thanks in advance

InitialD 03-15-2004 11:11 PM

Re: question for InitialD
 

Originally posted by Marcos.S710
what can i get from making the front shocksmore vertical? also adding the red springs?
From the testings I did, the shocks more vertical in front makes the turn ins more pleasant. A wider turning radius if you want to call it. Shocks more horizontal would make your for more aggressive cornering from left to right (especially in the middle of the corner) as a result of additional side bite the shocks gives.

With red springs all around, I found the car to be more direct response wise. Sometimes that makes driving a little more difficult on certain tracks.

You may want to try and open more holes (like 4 or 5 holes) in the shocks and give it a go with the stock 30wt oil. Else, you can follow Julius' setup of a slightly more viscous 35wt oil with 4 holes open. You'll be surprised.:nod:

InitialD 03-15-2004 11:13 PM


Originally posted by markp27
Forgive me lord, the dark side affects me sometimes :eek: :lol: :lol:
Clouded your vision has the darkside made you !:sneaky: :deathstar :lol:

InitialD 03-15-2004 11:17 PM


Originally posted by GoldFinger
Till now, I always mount it outermost so my thumbs is really helpfull.
:lol:

I am actually curious with regards to the rear sway bar setting that Julius mentioned in his setup posted on mytsn. He used the inner hole on the rear bottom arm instead of the stock outer position. Also used a much harder rear sway bar setting (mounted on the center of the bar) with no front anti roll bars...:confused:


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