Re: Re: 710 SSG
 

:rolleyes: Here is 3 Racing's website !

Re: 710 SSG
 

wow! amazingly good looking!:nod:

3Racing Parts
 

I sell these as well and with the Euro dollar the way it is, I am selling them for a very reasonable price here in the states !!!!

I brought some of the products out this weekend to the race and I must say that everyone loved the parts and every SSG part they/I sell is cheaper in price than the standard
Serpent price and really is great quality.

http://www.swrc.biz

Re: Re: 710 SSG
 

As far as the CVD's go, I did not try them out, however, two persons did. One took a big hit and tweaked the CVD in the middle the other gentelman wants more.

The Titanium shafts look really good and that is were most of the weight savings is. Althought this is a very small rotational mass, it does reduce some weight as well as the engine mounts. All in all it appears to be approx 1/2 an ounce. My pictures of the scale didnt turn out so well, so I will get some more info when I get a chance sometime tommorow.

As far as the Graphite goes, it feels real good and a guy was using a caliper and said they were slightly thicker, however when I weighed it all out, I didnt notice a weight difference and another guy said he felt it was stiffer ?? who knows ??

All in all I got about half of the products that are available and alot of interest is being centered around the Titanium pivot balls as well. I do not have those yet with the delrin retainers.

Time will tell, but the SSG does look sweet and appears to be pretty good quality .

I think the best option is the front upper bumper plate that has an aluminum peice that stays attached to the blocks with the droop grubscrews installed, and the bumper can be removed when needed.

JABRONI, thanks for the short feedback. Let us know from time to time and keep it up serving the Serpent racers over at your track.:)

hey guys my car takes forever to take off.. I have to rev it up pretty hi.. I was told to use spring #909518 and will solve my problem.. currently I have a distance of .5mm on the clutch nut.

or should i stay with the normal spring that came in the kit?

which one is softer? i want my car to be very responsive... HELP HELP PLEASE

Nope, unfortunately we have not seen any kits here with revised shock towers yet. I had mentioned that the new kits here included new black flywheels and brown first gears. No one here has the new shock towers yet.:(

Pay more attention when installing the new brown gear.
Seems the mesh/module slight difference with the black(previous)one or maybe just thicker coating.

Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.

Like Herbie mentioned, we want light cars ! We are weight freaks ! :lol:

Ceramic bearings are lighter and will last longer.

All the above are not to say that the 710 is heavy or that the ball bearings are faulty and all. Just that sometimes, people find strange things to do with their cars when there is nothing else that you can do to it ! :lol:

:nod: :nod: 2 years ago, when I come to serious in this hobby, I realize that "the sky is the limit", pretty scary.. but its true :D

Thank you Marco, I have put it on my list, thank you again... Looks like a lovely track.

Avoid to pop the balls out of (plastic) ball end, I just release the 1.5 set screw in rear.
In front, unscrew the bar holder then slide back so it wont touches.

Rich, that's not a stupid question.:) When I put the car on the Hudy board to check tweak or droop settings, I unscrew the ball of the linkage connected at the rear bottom arm with a 3 mm ball tip allen (great when accessing at an angle). The same way too for the shocks. Popping out the plastic ball cups off the ball will wear it out.

As for the front sway bars, just loosen one side of the H9 (3 x 4mm) grub screw (refer to Step 1.3 on page 4 of the manual) on one of the arms. Not necessary to do it on both sides. Take a nose plier to grip and push / slide that loosened sway bar to the side to "disconnect" the ball and cup assembly. That's all to it ! :nod:

When you want to connect the front sway bars back again, push the sway bar back in to form and connect the sway bar ball and cup assembly.

I can tell you one thing... consider yourself supported, CONGRATULATIONS on your decision, you will not be disappointed. there is something about a snake under the arm that tends to make people scared and stand clear...:D