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ok, so who makes the tyres that are compatible with this car?
I am going to look into some type of spacer also. while I am typing, .. I read someone has put CDV in their 710? what does CDV stand for? and what is the benefit of the over that the car has? I guess it would be that they dont get lost bc they are one piecew with the piece where rims sit? |
Originally posted by clmbia45 Looking at the picture, which is not too clear, it appears that you have worn the steering arm by having a bent wheel rub up against it. The green spoked wheel (kit) are 26+,- mm wide; the white disk wheels are 27+,- mm wide. The latter barely clear the steering arms; the spoked ones have about 1 mm clearance. The forum on mytsn mentions that serpent is coming out with new wheels in a month or so--my bet is they have 1 mm ofset. Cut 1 mm off the inside of the disk Ellegis and you will have the same clearance as the spoked ones (still not much).:cool: |
Originally posted by Profoxcg ok, so who makes the tyres that are compatible with this car? I am going to look into some type of spacer also. while I am typing, .. I read someone has put CDV in their 710? what does CDV stand for? and what is the benefit of the over that the car has? I guess it would be that they dont get lost bc they are one piecew with the piece where rims sit? |
i guess im not the only one that cuts their rims down now I am lost. |
i cut my fronts to 25mm or 24mm depending on track condition. cutting down leaves more room so you don't have to worry about spacers.
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Marcos
where you refering to cuttin the actual rim? (is so how) or truing the tyres 1mm ?
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Originally posted by cyba888 Wider is always better correct? I trim my fronts (GRP dish) to 26mm. They come 27mm wide from the box. Wack them on a truer and then using a file, grind the inside edge. |
Originally posted by Profoxcg ok, so who makes the tyres that are compatible with this car? I am going to look into some type of spacer also. while I am typing, .. I read someone has put CDV in their 710? what does CDV stand for? and what is the benefit of the over that the car has? I guess it would be that they dont get lost bc they are one piecew with the piece where rims sit? |
CVD's have less play; they are generally lighter; they don't fall off; they tranfer power to the wheel more consistently than dogbones (because of less play); but they do require more maintenance than dogbones.
Personally, CVD's are the way to go... I hate dogbones :) |
who makes CDVs for the 710?
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Originally posted by Profoxcg who makes CDVs for the 710? |
Originally posted by evlhdlts CVD's have less play; they are generally lighter; they don't fall off; they tranfer power to the wheel more consistently than dogbones (because of less play); but they do require more maintenance than dogbones. Personally, CVD's are the way to go... I hate dogbones :) Lighter..?? disagree.. coz to make a CVD, the bulletproove one, they need to use some heavy-duty cold process steel. Far as I know, they will not beat the spring steel / heat-treated one in weight terms. More consistent.. its about same rate. Just my 2cents |
Originally posted by clmbia45 Serpent is coming out with them; I saw the prototype at the Winter Nats. Beautiful!;) :nod: |
I have a question for the Pro's. Once I get my car running wich should be within the next week or so, just waiting on the weather now as I will probably have my car completed tonight!:nod: :D I'm going to setup the car as the book says. I keep hereing that the 710 has this nasty push or oversteer. If I incounter this problem, what would be the first areas you would adjust to correct this problem?
I'm going to be running on a parking lot that has really smooth ashfault(only a few years old and doesn't see much traffic), it gets blown down before the track gets laid out. But it never gets a traction additive used like VHT. Let me know what you guys think that way the first time I go out there and the car does this pushing thing I won't be standing there with my hands down my pants!:blush: Everybody else there is running the R40 so I want to make a good impression the first time I head out! Everybody at the store is telling me to buy a R40(they don't know I bought the 710 yet:sneaky: )that it handles just as good as the 710 and the 710 is a piece of crap. So I want to go there on the first day and knock there socks off!:lol: Let me know, thanks. |
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich I have a question for the Pro's. Once I get my car running wich should be within the next week or so, just waiting on the weather now as I will probably have my car completed tonight!:nod: :D I'm going to setup the car as the book says. I keep hereing that the 710 has this nasty push or oversteer. If I incounter this problem, what would be the first areas you would adjust to correct this problem? I'm going to be running on a parking lot that has really smooth ashfault(only a few years old and doesn't see much traffic), it gets blown down before the track gets laid out. But it never gets a traction additive used like VHT. Let me know what you guys think that way the first time I go out there and the car does this pushing thing I won't be standing there with my hands down my pants!:blush: Everybody else there is running the R40 so I want to make a good impression the first time I head out! Everybody at the store is telling me to buy a R40(they don't know I bought the 710 yet:sneaky: )that it handles just as good as the 710 and the 710 is a piece of crap. So I want to go there on the first day and knock there socks off!:lol: Let me know, thanks. |
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