:lol: :D

I have a qustion about the thrush bearing I have lost two bearings and have only ran the car about 20 mins.
I set it up like the book and I set it up like a centex2.

Perhaps you made sure that the thrust bearings are installed correctly i.e. inner diameter of the bigger 5.2 mm ring goes in first nearest to the clutch shoe and then the smaller 5.0 mm inner diameter ring as in Step 8.5...

Did you take out most of the axial play in the clutchbell and shim it as per Step 8.7 with 5x8 mm shims?

InitialD, I noticed that you ran a locked front axle in your setup. How well were you able to get the off power steering and how tight is the track you run on? In my first day running my car, I tried the locked front, and it was an all day struggle to find steering.

I am MAD, I cant get the clutch to work be responsive ! I am breaking more stuff and i havent even ran the car yet !!!!!, i have had it since december and I cant get it to work.!!!!!!!!!!

should i just get out of the hobby and race my real car !? :flaming:

I think i would've been happier with a stupid RTR. this 710 is a pain in the arse. maybe I should've gotten a 705 or R40

:sneaky:

I run at reasonably large track to pretty tight ones with the same setup.

Firstly I used a grade softer front tires than the rear. Not only this gives better steering, it also gives equal front and rear tire wear. Secondly, I used one hole piston more in the front than the rear for the shocks. Caster is set 1 mm in front upper arms which gives a good turn in. No front sway bar connected. Rear trackwidth is set at 197 mm and front is 200 mm. Makes the rear tail of the car follow the front. I think this is one of the more important features to get the car to turn in well. Also, the rear ball diff is set to medium loose. You may want to adjust this and also the caster angle to reduce on power steering exiting the corner to tame the rear end of the car from wiggling. If the front of your car hooks up too much in the middle of the corner, reduce front camber by about 0.5.

You may want to angle the rear shocks more upright or change the rear roll center to higher to get the car to turn in better. I would admit that this would not be the fastest setup but it sure makes for very consistant car in a long main. The car is very stable in and out of corners.

I believe these are the things that made my car get good off power steering. Else, you could also try the setup posted on mytsn by a guy named Alfred Aeschlimann from Puerto Rico. I think his setup is pretty similar than mine except for a few things here and there...

*********************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: 0mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm
Camber Left: -2 degree
Camber Right: -2 degree
Track-width: 200mm
Toe-in: 1.0 degree toe-out
Caster setting (mm in front): 5mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 4mm under
Upstop (mm): none

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 6mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm
Camber Left: -3.0 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: 2.0 degree toe-in
Track-width: 200mm
Roll-center position upper: UBO
Roll-center position lower: high
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): up

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 3
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: red
Oil: 30W
Holes: 3
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: standard
Position: flat

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 3mm from end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: Nitro Shoes
Hardness Left: 35 shore
Hardness Right: 35 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires rear:
Make: Nitro Shoes
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 17T
Pinion 2nd: 22T
Gear 1st: 60T
Gear 2nd: 56T

Front axle:
Type: solid axle
Diff. setting:

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: no slip on side-full loose on external

Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: stock
Gurney strip: none

Remarks:
Chassis performance: Very good, solid brakes, transitions well with good steering, for more steering loose the front sway bar, for less switch rear roll center upper to UTI and move front shock position to 3rd hole.

*********************************************

Hey cool it Profoxcg... Not everybody is born to race a 1/10 th scale nitro. I had to learn it the hard way too. Believe me, it was not easy for me too. I guess I can speak the same for the rest. Nothing comes easy and that is why this hobby is different as it always challenges you is day in day out with different things...

Anyway, that said, what do you mean by the clutch not responsive? What have you done to the clutch at the moment? What are you using to measure the clutch gap / end float etc?

When your clutch is unresponsive, it could be two things... One, it's slipping and the other is probably your engine is already aging or set too rich.

Clutch slipping can be attributed to the clutch pre-tension nut set too tight or the end float set too large. Having the clutch shoe to clutch bell spacing too large will sometimes not help to get a better clutch engagement, no matter how much you loosen the clutch pre-tension nut. The manual suggest 0.7 mm for the clutch bell to the clutch shoe spacing. See if you're having this measurement. If you are, set it closer to like 0.5 mm or even 0.4 mm.

I'm way ahead of you, Goldfinger - the power of the Jedi mind trick can be most useful :lol: :lol:

Also, are you running the kit tires? Junk it. I think the rear tires are too soft. Even with a oneway front, you will understeer ! :)

Give it to someone who knows what they are doing. I took mine to my lhs and they installed the clutch for me. Save yourself some time, headache and have a experienced guy teach you how its done before you pull out all your hairs. :eek: You dont need to learn it the hard way, just the correct and easy way. I installed the thrust bearings by myself as well as the clutch but they did all the gap measurements for me to make sure everything was fine. Luckily my lhs is also where I race the car so buying the kit from them was a good investment. The owner even helped me break in my engine and was by me the whole time. Now thats what I call customer service ;)

I agree... there is no sense in going for an inferior product if the better one is getting the better of you...

Profox, I would sugest doing the same. I must congratulate you on getting the 710... I am BaxterC and I am your Friend... If you get frustrated with a component, please relax and take a deap breath as when you get frustrated (and believe me I do too, I nearly threw a PC out of the office window last week) that is when components break, it does not matter who made them, or how resillient it is... We are all here to help, and be helped. Please remember that if you can get someone to physically show you how, it will be a much better day.

InitialD
 

initial, thank you for the encouragement.
I have set my 3 clutch shoes in the pins and I have not cut them. I have set the nut that holds the spring .7mm instead of 1mm in other words i have unscrewed it a little bit.

i am not sure what distance I have between the end bell (where the pinions are) and the circular one piece clutch. Step (8.3)

I do not have a digital caliper so this could be part of the problem.

I am not certain of where to pace the shims. the instruction say to do the formula A-b-0.7 = Xmm and I much find shims to add to this number. The book says to place then after the thrus bearing but shows 2 shims. What if I need more or less? (Step 8.6)

then step 8.7 says:
Fasteners:
O ring 5x8x0.1mm (M11)
O ring 5x8x0.3mm (M11)
O ring 5x10mm (U4)

A) Add small shims to allow only small amount of endplay.

So how many of those shims do i need to add?
for example, I have set my spring nut to .7mm , m clutch bell to .7mm b/c I place one 3mm shim in the front, so now i have the correct gap, how many small (M11) do i need to add?

currently I can pull my clutchbell out about 1.5mm, should i place shims on both inside and out so the clutchbell barely had any endplay?

step 8.7 confusses me, and i think that is why my car is not working.

my goal is to make the car roll a little bit if I feather my throtle not have to push it 25% down. I was also playing with the iddle needle, it was very rich at the begining, but I have turned the screw in all the way and have turned it out 2.5 turns, so not its not as rich. top needle is a 3 turns.

please try to help me InitialD, how far should I be able to pull my clutch bell?

BaxterC

Your 710 is still in transit? Is been like months! :weird:

BaxterC Cyba,

I was writing my essay to InitialD while you guys were posting.

I agree with taking the car to my LHS, in fact I did. I got the car back and it was alot less responsive than when i turned it in. Being that the 710 is a new car, not that many people who work at the LHS know the car or are racers for that matter. So it is hard to ask them very technical questions.

For example, something else I noticed is that everyone has their own way of doing things, - I was sold the silver HARDER spring which was suposed to solve my problem.. they told me it was solfter.

I am not giving up on my car, I just took a shower and I have put it away until tomorrow. So now I can think and with your responses I feel much better. Someone should make a video DIY on how to propertly build this centax. haha

Thanks

PS , Have you build your own centax BaxterC ? maybe you can give me some input on the shims questions I asked InitalD

Well, two reasons... one, I may be a pc engineer but I dont know how to change it, and I am too lazy to figure it out... and second, I got robbed recently, I sold a laptop and the check I was paid was a fraudulent one, and all the details were false... that was the cost of nearly all my components I listed earlier...... I am placing my order near the 30th... I cant wait... as long as this POS company pays me what I am owed...