R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

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Profoxcg Are you around Ft.lauderdale? If you are they are racing in palm bay this sunday if you go there my friend kevin can help you with the 710, i bought mine from him and he is pretty good if you want more info pm me!

Re: Re: Re: Re: question for InitialD

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
For high traction tracks, I would go with red. Else, stick with the stock. Well, you could try it if you want and see if you like the way the car handles.

I will be testing the car tomorow at full throttle speedway i will let you know how it does.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
BaxterC Cyba,

I was writing my essay to InitialD while you guys were posting.

I agree with taking the car to my LHS, in fact I did. I got the car back and it was alot less responsive than when i turned it in. Being that the 710 is a new car, not that many people who work at the LHS know the car or are racers for that matter. So it is hard to ask them very technical questions.

For example, something else I noticed is that everyone has their own way of doing things, - I was sold the silver HARDER spring which was suposed to solve my problem.. they told me it was solfter.

I am not giving up on my car, I just took a shower and I have put it away until tomorrow. So now I can think and with your responses I feel much better. Someone should make a video DIY on how to propertly build this centax. haha

Thanks

PS , Have you build your own centax BaxterC ? maybe you can give me some input on the shims questions I asked InitalD

Hi Profox, i have not built the serpent yet... I have had no experience with the serpent clutch... I do however know the concept form other manufacturers with the only difference being that the old Ofna clutch had bearings (balls) in cones and that using cetrifugal force moves the shoe forward... I am waiting ti finally order the KIT... I cant wait.

Quote:

Originally posted by BaxterC

This is called ABUSE OF SMILIES ... it is to produce a :)

If you dont have a serpent... (including me) sorry for you...

Phew Baxter, hope you don't get into trouble for that! :p

Sow&Steady

What engine do you have under your hood? The one in your avatar pic :D :sneaky:

HMMM, I wonder if is called friction...

Only playing..

Sorry for the late reply. Was busy ! :)

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
I have set my 3 clutch shoes in the pins and I have not cut them. I have set the nut that holds the spring .7mm instead of 1mm in other words i have unscrewed it a little bit.

Ummm, you may have to unscrew it somemore if you're using the stock flyweight mounting. Perhaps to like 0.4 mm or 0.5 mm instead of 0.7 mm. Loosen the spring pre-tension nut slowly in 1/4 turns at a time and test it on the track.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
i am not sure what distance I have between the end bell (where the pinions are) and the circular one piece clutch. Step (8.3)

Ok, you should set it from 0.4 mm to 0.7 mm. Step 8.6 will show you correctly how to do it.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
I do not have a digital caliper so this could be part of the problem.

Ok, now I see your problem ! You should get one ! :nod: It makes life very easy. No need for a digital one. Analog one will do.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am not certain of where to pace the shims. the instruction say to do the formula A-b-0.7 = Xmm and I much find shims to add to this number. The book says to place then after the thrus bearing but shows 2 shims. What if I need more or less? (Step 8.6)

The 2 shims in the picture are just there for example. If you need more shims, then put it accordingly.

If you set the end float as 0.7 mm, then use that formula in the manual. If you set the end float as 0.5 mm, then the formula should be

A-B-0.5 = x mm of shims you need to put.

If you run out of shims to put in front of the thrust bearing (i.e. more than 1 mm worth of shims needed in the front), take out the flywheel and mount some more shim (perhaps add a 0.3 mm shim or another 0.5 mm) behind the flywheel on top of the 0.5 mm that you already put. Don't put 0.1 mm thin shims directly behind the engine bearing. If you have to use thin shims, put it nearer towards the copper collet / flywheel side.

To briefly explain the above, say for example you currently need 1.2 mm worth of shims in front of the thrust bearing and now you have 0.5 mm shim behind the flywheel. Adding 0.5 mm more in the back of the flywheel (0.5 + 0.5 = 1.0 mm), you now required only 0.8 mm worth of shims (1.2 - 0.5 = 0.8 mm) in the front of the thrust bearing.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
So how many of those shims do i need to add?
for example, I have set my spring nut to .7mm , m clutch bell to .7mm b/c I place one 3mm shim in the front, so now i have the correct gap, how many small (M11) do i need to add?

Before you proceed to try anything, I suggest you beg, borrow and steal a decent caliper. That would save you from all the troubles that you need to repeat the steps.

From my experience, if you set the end float of say 0.5 mm, the total amount of M11 shim thickness should not exceed 0.5 mm.

In any case, put 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm shim and assemble the clutch completely. Place the clutch so that it faces towards your face (facing upwards). Spin the clutchbell and it should spin freely without rubbing the clutch shoes. If the clutchbell stops abruptly, then the clutchbell is rubbing the shoes and therefore, you need more shims.

Now check for the axial play of the clutchbell. There should be no or very little axial play. If there is axial play, take off the clutchbell and bearing and put some more shims as per step 8.7. Assemble it back again and check.

You will know that you put too much shims in step 8.7 when you find that there is a resistance to lock the F14 screw onto the SG shaft of the engine at the end just before tightening it completely.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
currently I can pull my clutchbell out about 1.5mm, should i place shims on both inside and out so the clutchbell barely had any endplay?

You need to set your end float correctly in step 8.6 before shimming in step 8.7.

Assuming you did it correct in step 8.6, shim it accordingly in step 8.7 as per what I've described above. Axial play of about 1.5 mm is too much anyway.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
step 8.7 confusses me, and i think that is why my car is not working.

Step 8.7 shimming only makes sure that your clutchbell does not rub against the clutch shoes during engine idling which can cuase engine cut off. Secondly, it helps to take out the extra axial play in the clutch bell so that it is easier on the thrust bearings. Too much loose axial play in the clutchbell can cause the thrust bearings to take a lot of beating which they end up toast at the end of the day no matter how much you grease them.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
please try to help me InitialD, how far should I be able to pull my clutch bell?

Please refer to the top for the answer.

Quote:

Originally posted by Profoxcg
Being that the 710 is a new car, not that many people who work at the LHS know the car or are racers for that matter. So it is hard to ask them very technical questions.

Actually, if you are very confident and really understand how the clutch works, any other Centax clutch would be the same. You need not drive the 710 to be able to solve the Centax problem.

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Actually, if you are very confident and really understand how the clutch works, any other Centax clutch would be the same. You need not drive the 710 to be able to solve the Centax problem.

I agree with you totally... 11 days till I order, then the real waiting begins... I saw something on myTSN earlier... I will paste a link, One guy was fighting with serpent ansd got shot down... I feel his frustration, but he reacted incorrectly and got bit for it...

http://www.mytsn.com/forums/forum.as...exp=47420&sm=0

Hey.... I see some GOOD info here...

http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm

Hi guys.... does this not look sweet... where would one get those wheels, and who makes them... they are dang good looking...

http://www.daltonshop.com/images/S710rightview.JPG

Baxter, they are GQ tires.

Dee, Thankyou.. I just found it... will you be able to upload a PDF anywhere, it is two meg and absolutely packed FULL of stuff, but I cant upload here, do you have anywhere I can put it or you can put it and put a link here?

I hope they're good, I ordered 10 sets. The price is good $200 shipping included, 5 sets 37 shore and 5 sets 40shore

If anyone is interested I can hook u up