Serpent 710
#2716
Originally posted by crashed_1
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.
#2717
Originally posted by clmbia45
:I PUT THE CAR ON THE CONCRETE, PRESSED FIRMLY, AND BURNED RUBBER WITH ALL 4 WHEELS! NO SLIP!
:I PUT THE CAR ON THE CONCRETE, PRESSED FIRMLY, AND BURNED RUBBER WITH ALL 4 WHEELS! NO SLIP!
Sorry if I resisted to give that info as I was in the midst of discussing this issue with Julius via PM. He still thinks that the way the manual suggest to install the flyweights is correct. I thought since you already knew about it from Robert of Ashford, might as well tell ya !
Anyway, what clutch settings did you end up with?
#2718
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by crashed_1
OUCH...DRS, Upperlink, Shock Shaft...etc. That must've hurt man. Did your shcktowers break?...
OUCH...DRS, Upperlink, Shock Shaft...etc. That must've hurt man. Did your shcktowers break?...
#2719
Originally posted by InitialD
Crash, you need to trim the flyweights because if you put the 3 in between the pins (without slotting them into it like in the manual), you have restricted space to sit the 3 shoes nicely in as the flyweights are a little long.
Crash, you need to trim the flyweights because if you put the 3 in between the pins (without slotting them into it like in the manual), you have restricted space to sit the 3 shoes nicely in as the flyweights are a little long.
When r u leaving for Thailand?...can you get MS to sign on a new Mazda6 lexan please?.....
#2720
Originally posted by kreidel
Needless to say it went into a 180 slide and knifed into the wall a-arms first.
Needless to say it went into a 180 slide and knifed into the wall a-arms first.
#2721
Originally posted by kreidel
No...should it have? broken??
No...should it have? broken??
Originally posted by kreidel
You think they would know to put alittle plastic in the ends of those wheelnuts.
You think they would know to put alittle plastic in the ends of those wheelnuts.
#2722
Originally posted by crashed_1
And then....? After shortening them, do I still put them into the slots or outta?....
And then....? After shortening them, do I still put them into the slots or outta?....
Originally posted by crashed_1
When r u leaving for Thailand?...can you get MS to sign on a new Mazda6 lexan please?.....
When r u leaving for Thailand?...can you get MS to sign on a new Mazda6 lexan please?.....
#2723
Originally posted by NitroHead
I for one do not have my panties in a bunch...
I for one do not have my panties in a bunch...
#2724
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Hahaha! Yeah, and what's the difference between panties in 60's and panties these days ?
Hahaha! Yeah, and what's the difference between panties in 60's and panties these days ?
#2725
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, Serpent flanged lock nuts have always been like that. You need to tighten them down real hard. You could use the locktite method or the teflon tape like what plumbers do on the pipes on those nuts.
Well, Serpent flanged lock nuts have always been like that. You need to tighten them down real hard. You could use the locktite method or the teflon tape like what plumbers do on the pipes on those nuts.
#2726
Originally posted by crashed_1
Be careful there...to date I've snapped 2 axles just by overtightening 'em...just firm enuff would do.
Be careful there...to date I've snapped 2 axles just by overtightening 'em...just firm enuff would do.
The Hudy spring steel ones will not.
#2727
Originally posted by crashed_1
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.
Can you post a pic of your shortened flyweights?..or which area of the flyweights did you shorten?....THANX.
#2728
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. Good to know it worked for you Jack !
Sorry if I resisted to give that info as I was in the midst of discussing this issue with Julius via PM. He still thinks that the way the manual suggest to install the flyweights is correct. I thought since you already knew about it from Robert of Ashford, might as well tell ya !
Anyway, what clutch settings did you end up with?
Cool. Good to know it worked for you Jack !
Sorry if I resisted to give that info as I was in the midst of discussing this issue with Julius via PM. He still thinks that the way the manual suggest to install the flyweights is correct. I thought since you already knew about it from Robert of Ashford, might as well tell ya !
Anyway, what clutch settings did you end up with?
Last edited by clmbia45; 01-06-2004 at 10:35 PM.
#2729
Originally posted by clmbia45
I used the 0.4 mm clutch gap you suggested, but opted for 0.9 mm spring nut compression, instead of the book 1 mm value. End play is about 1-2 mm. Enough that the bell spins freely with no drag.
I used the 0.4 mm clutch gap you suggested, but opted for 0.9 mm spring nut compression, instead of the book 1 mm value. End play is about 1-2 mm. Enough that the bell spins freely with no drag.
Since the clutchbell already can spin freely, I would still add some more shims as per step 8.7 to take out most of the end play. Mine virtually does not have any but a very slight end play. This will give a longer thrust bearing life.
#2730
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'm not set up to post pics yet, but I'll describe it. Each flyweight occupies about 1/3 of a circle. Looking at it from the top (flat surface), there's a hole in one end and an angled end on the other. I cut about 1mm off the angled end, parallel to the angle and at right angle to the surface. i.e. a 1mm slice. Actually, the 1st time I did it, I cut slices as thin as I could, until it fit between the posts, all the way down on the surface of the flywheel. When it's not down all the way, you can feel it rock when you push on the ends. It's a little deceptive, because it has to move in as it slides down. But you have to get it short enough to sit flat on the flywheel between the posts, or the 802505 support washer will not rest flat on them. Once you get the 1st one done, use it as a pattern for the other 2. I cut it with a straight edge hobby knife; it cuts easily.
I'm not set up to post pics yet, but I'll describe it. Each flyweight occupies about 1/3 of a circle. Looking at it from the top (flat surface), there's a hole in one end and an angled end on the other. I cut about 1mm off the angled end, parallel to the angle and at right angle to the surface. i.e. a 1mm slice. Actually, the 1st time I did it, I cut slices as thin as I could, until it fit between the posts, all the way down on the surface of the flywheel. When it's not down all the way, you can feel it rock when you push on the ends. It's a little deceptive, because it has to move in as it slides down. But you have to get it short enough to sit flat on the flywheel between the posts, or the 802505 support washer will not rest flat on them. Once you get the 1st one done, use it as a pattern for the other 2. I cut it with a straight edge hobby knife; it cuts easily.