Joe Chaplow

hi,
i am selling my ceramic bearings for my 710. i have only used them once for maybe 30 minutes of racing. i am not running the 710 anymore. i will take $150 for them. it is the full set, including a never used ceramic thrust bearing. call me at 305-807-9529 or email me to [email protected]. thanks.

Joe Chaplow

hi,
i am also selling my 710. it has many hop-ups. including the serpent front sway bar, the 3 racing rear bulk covers, the aluminum front block (the piece that the front shaft goes through), the aluminum upper supports in the front made by serpent (they are orange), the aluminum support that goes under the radio tray in the rear made by serpent (silver), upgraded sway bar, upgraded steering ackerman. paid $370 for kit and about $230 for hop-ups. have driven the car in three races. will take $350 for all. email me to [email protected] or call me at 305-807-9529.

alucard13

joe,
getting out of racing or getting another car?

Joe Chaplow

also selling all my parts... i am taking a big loss on them, just want to get rid of them. all new and still in package (pricing included shipping):
chasis $50
17t pinion gear hardened $6.50
21t pinion gear hardened $6.50
silicone fuel tubing orange $3.00
front shock piston rods $6.00
rear shock piston rods $6.00
rear dog bones $8.50
thre belt pro-set $20.00
centax clutch shoes (802507) $6.50
Suspension front nylone plastic part set $17.00
18t pinion gear hardened $6.50
Shock tower rear (new thicker version) $18.00
front lower pivot pin (package of 2) $7
all size hardened pinion gears i have for $6.50
all size spur gears are $4.00
Drive flange aluminum part number 902411 goes inside spur gear $15.00
2 speed gearbox (even includes both spur gears) $45.00
email me to [email protected] or 305-807-9529.

Joe Chaplow

what's up mike,
i am still going to race, i am just going back to my kyosho. i guess you could say i did not like the advice i received when i asked for help.... so, oh well, will race the rrr again. i like the kyosho anyway. give me a call tonite 305-807-9529.

Joe Chaplow

what's up mike,
i am still going to race, i am just going back to my kyosho. i guess you could say i did not like the advice i received when i asked for help.... so, oh well, will race the rrr again. i like the kyosho anyway. give me a call tonite 305-807-9529. (copied the wrong one by accident first post--- sorry)

jag

Wow! He's good.

alucard13

If you have the rear diff to tight using the screws what will be the symptoms. I adjusted my rear diff since the car was pulling to the right when i went on throttle and I tightened it until i couldnt turn the pulley. But when i run it i want to know if i can tell if its too tight or too loose.

Joe Chaplow

you want the diff too be tight as possible without the back end giving out. so it depends on the track. if the track has a lot of traction, you can have the diff tighter. so basically, it is trial and error. set it up pretty tight, drive the track. if the back end comes out when you give it power, the diff is too tight and loosen it some. then try again. at track with no traction, you have to run the diff loose. i hope this helps and makes sense at the same time!!!

InitialD

If you tighten the screws to tightly, it would be the same as having the diff collar set tightly too. Which means like what joemugen mentioned, your rear end may be loose on tracks with less traction.

When you tighten the internal screws of the rear diff, make sure it's just sufficiently tight so that the diff pulley does not slip when you try to turn it hard. Not more than that. Make sure you "lock" the setting by tightening the grub screw on the other end which should hold the setting and prevent the main screw from loosening out.

Anyway, the rear diff may appear "tight" after tightening the screws. But give the car a few runs to make the rear diff settle in. It will be good after that.

The setting on the diff collar may be tight when cold but after a few laps on the track, the diff collar will loosen up. So be careful when setting the rear diff.

A tip would be to put a thin layer of Mugen Super Grease on the shiny diff axle surface where the diff collar clamps.

clmbia45

I have on occasion had an engine I (nor anyone else who tried) could tune. I have used PERMATEX sensor safe HIGH TEMP RTV SILICON GASKET MAKER (ORANGE). Clean all mating surfaces with alcohol and acetone and seal the base of the carb, both ends of the carb clamp HSN (both surfaces of the fuel nipple ) and the back plate. I apply it with a toothpick. This, in most cases, has solved the problem, and the seal lasts until the next engine dismantlement. It is not easy to remove.

markp27

Thanks, Jack - I will see if I can find something similar here.

Cheers, Mark.

alucard13

Thank you. I will re check it and put some grease on it. Can i use regular grease (like from Associated?) I am not sure if i can get mugen supergrease before tomorrow.

markp27

Not the Assos diff grease - it is much too light.

It'd be best to wait for your mugen grease, otherwise the effect may be quite the opposite of what you want.

Cheers, Mark.

gonzoY5

What happened Joe? got pointed in the wrong direction?