Serpent 710
04-11-2005, 10:31 PM
Originally posted by markp27
You'll have brittle bones, too, one day
You'll have brittle bones, too, one day
04-11-2005, 10:33 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Don't worry. I'll act my age when the day comes. Not like some people I know.
Don't worry. I'll act my age when the day comes. Not like some people I know.
wait a minute, which one are you refering to? 
04-11-2005, 11:14 PM
Originally posted by markp27
wait a minute, which one are you refering to?
wait a minute, which one are you refering to?
Imagine a pola bear on rollerblades.
04-11-2005, 11:32 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, let's put it this way... At least Onkel Sow does not rollerblade. Imagine a pola bear on rollerblades.
Well, let's put it this way... At least Onkel Sow does not rollerblade.
Imagine a pola bear on rollerblades.
04-11-2005, 11:33 PM
BTW: D, you're showing signs of needing a telescope/microscope, too
You have PM @ 3hobby.net
You have PM @ 3hobby.net
04-12-2005, 12:44 AM
Tech Addict
Originally posted by Paolo M
I guys
Airleaking.........that's the problem. So far i had same problem in 1 engine. The 2 cams that you use to fix the carb at the crankcase in some case are some tents too long, and so even if you tigth the screw all the way down, still the carb is not really tigth and some air leaks from there (i had 1 engine that with the screw all the way, the carb was loose :weird
To solve this, you need to take out the 2 cams, grind a little bit and then the problem is solved.
Anyway, if there is no airleaking and the engine is running good and progressively is becoming lean, i normally rich the HSN (wich since is the "main" needle, it will also rich the bottom at the same time.
About compression, at sea level with 16% you should use 0.3 mm. Anyway, reading the plug is the best way for me
Another tip is the oring inside the crankcase (there is an internal oring inside the crank where the carb is located. I have had some bad experience with the internal oring cause the fit is so tigth that in several cases when you install the carb you strip the oring and the black parts goes in the crankshaft making a mess (not a big problem, is easy to solve, but anyway). I am using my engines without the oring (i use only the oring that is in the carb and no problem at all.
Paolo
I guys
Airleaking.........that's the problem. So far i had same problem in 1 engine. The 2 cams that you use to fix the carb at the crankcase in some case are some tents too long, and so even if you tigth the screw all the way down, still the carb is not really tigth and some air leaks from there (i had 1 engine that with the screw all the way, the carb was loose :weird
To solve this, you need to take out the 2 cams, grind a little bit and then the problem is solved.
Anyway, if there is no airleaking and the engine is running good and progressively is becoming lean, i normally rich the HSN (wich since is the "main" needle, it will also rich the bottom at the same time.
About compression, at sea level with 16% you should use 0.3 mm. Anyway, reading the plug is the best way for me
Another tip is the oring inside the crankcase (there is an internal oring inside the crank where the carb is located. I have had some bad experience with the internal oring cause the fit is so tigth that in several cases when you install the carb you strip the oring and the black parts goes in the crankshaft making a mess (not a big problem, is easy to solve, but anyway). I am using my engines without the oring (i use only the oring that is in the carb and no problem at all.
Paolo
04-12-2005, 12:51 AM
Originally posted by markp27
BTW: D, you're showing signs of needing a telescope/microscope, too
You have PM @ 3hobby.net
BTW: D, you're showing signs of needing a telescope/microscope, too
You have PM @ 3hobby.net
And a long PM reply requires a whole lot longer time.
04-12-2005, 01:03 AM
Originally posted by Brett.w
Thanks for the reply Paolo i would just like to know how to check if the carb is leaking?
Thanks for the reply Paolo i would just like to know how to check if the carb is leaking?
It seems you have to be very careful in aligning the two pieces before pushing in the carb - Maybe it was also like Paolo said, due to the locking clamps being a little too long, they looked ok to me, but I'll check them more carefully.
A tip I got at 3hobby in check for a leak, is to spray WD40 or cleaning fluid onto the area where you think the leak is and if it affects the revs, then you can be certain there is a leak.
04-12-2005, 01:04 AM
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, actually I'm a rather slow typist. And a long PM reply requires a whole lot longer time.
Well, actually I'm a rather slow typist.
And a long PM reply requires a whole lot longer time.
04-12-2005, 01:16 AM
Tech Addict
Originally posted by markp27
Brett, what I found was that my two piece carb clamp was not seated correctly and it has actually damaged the metal part of the carb housing (the part which fits into the engine)
It seems you have to be very careful in aligning the two pieces before pushing in the carb - Maybe it was also like Paolo said, due to the locking clamps being a little too long, they looked ok to me, but I'll check them more carefully.
A tip I got at 3hobby in check for a leak, is to spray WD40 or cleaning fluid onto the area where you think the leak is and if it affects the revs, then you can be certain there is a leak.
Brett, what I found was that my two piece carb clamp was not seated correctly and it has actually damaged the metal part of the carb housing (the part which fits into the engine)
It seems you have to be very careful in aligning the two pieces before pushing in the carb - Maybe it was also like Paolo said, due to the locking clamps being a little too long, they looked ok to me, but I'll check them more carefully.
A tip I got at 3hobby in check for a leak, is to spray WD40 or cleaning fluid onto the area where you think the leak is and if it affects the revs, then you can be certain there is a leak.
04-12-2005, 01:22 AM
Originally posted by Brett.w
Thanks for the tip Mark. With the damage, is your carb ruined? or cna it be fixed
Thanks for the tip Mark. With the damage, is your carb ruined? or cna it be fixed
I would have thought, if I put some sealent between the carb and the engine housing, that should be enough to cure the problem, though.
Cheers, Mark.
04-12-2005, 01:30 AM
Here's a question for our Mugen Super Grease expert...(that's you D )....would smearing the grease around the interface between the engine and the carb housing create an air-tight seal?
Would it run due to the heat of the motor?
Just a thought.
Cheers, Mark.
)....would smearing the grease around the interface between the engine and the carb housing create an air-tight seal? Would it run due to the heat of the motor?
Just a thought.
Cheers, Mark.
04-12-2005, 03:03 AM
Sorry, couldn't help being called the *spit* Super Grease expert. It's worth a try though but don't know if it can actually work.
04-12-2005, 05:16 AM
Originally posted by markp27
Here's a question for our Mugen Super Grease expert...(that's you D)....would smearing the grease around the interface between the engine and the carb housing create an air-tight seal?
Would it run due to the heat of the motor?
Just a thought.
Cheers, Mark.
Here's a question for our Mugen Super Grease expert...(that's you D
)....would smearing the grease around the interface between the engine and the carb housing create an air-tight seal? Would it run due to the heat of the motor?
Just a thought.
Cheers, Mark.
04-12-2005, 05:19 AM
Originally posted by JustRace
Mark...I wouldn't do that. Most motors have the oring below the carb clamp and air leak shouldn't be a problem. The older motor only had the oring at the base of the carb. Back then you could have leaks from the carb clamp.
Mark...I wouldn't do that. Most motors have the oring below the carb clamp and air leak shouldn't be a problem. The older motor only had the oring at the base of the carb. Back then you could have leaks from the carb clamp.