Why would there be overheating problems with the stock clutchbell? I still have mine and use them occasionally without problems...

She said something like: "over my dead body" - actually, I think she meant my dead body
Secondly - I'm afraid of getting her interested.....then there'd be no escape

You should know better than to trust both old pairs of eyes !

Well, so far no problems with them. I know a few who run the stock clutch bell with no problems either...

That was the problem I had early and switched to the new bell housing and am still running the same bearings in the clutch, about 4 months now. The only thing I replace is the yellow shoe when it wears.

The endplay does not sound like alot either mark, How much movement does the bellhousing have when the clutch is assembled? I found also that if there is a fair bit of movement as the clutch engages and snaps onto the thrust bearing then this will also wear the bearings out faster in the clutch also.

That's true. You'd probably have to spend time wrenching, buying spares to replace broken ones more than you would have done yourself.

Well if not, just get her to get used to the idea that the RC stuff are part of the home's furniture.

If that fails, get a room where she can never access. Specifically RC stuff only. Learn from the professionals with experience.

You replace your clutch shoes? I never had to do that... Not yet. I'm guessing that the problems you have with your bearings and yoru clutch shoes is due to excessive clutch slip...

Is the colour of your clutchbell blueish black in colour? That's a sure sign of the metal overheating. Overheating would lead to the bearings failing and the clutch shoes melting.

I think Mark mentioned that it was 0.1 mm end play.

Correct. More end play (not to be confused with clutch gap) means more "bang" the bearing will be subjected to. That is why the end play needs to be shimmed correctly so that only very little end play is resulted.

No the wear is due to excessive use, got about 5 months out of the shoe and then I replace them, no slip at all but understand what you are saying.

Sorry I though Mark meant he had a .1mm shim at endplay and that is all.

You are correct D .1mm is what I run and that should not create any problems. I aggree I just got the ceramic thrust bearings, not that I have any problems with the standard one's at all, but again with sparksy I have no choice.

Mark maybe try the new clutchbell, a few of us over hear run that bell because of the problems you described

Maybe it is the power of the JP

and that would be the least of my problems

I hear what you're saying Bro - sneakily replace pot plants with a Tx unit, orniments with cars, paintings with pictures of the Prophets, etc

Oh, I'm already there but my gear has migrated into the lounge She won't like that I've still got a couple of hours

Ok, I'll try the new clutchbell.

Regarding the old clutchbell, there are no signs of overheating and the clutch seems to engage quite snappily, i.e. no signs of slippage.

D

Got the new serpent tyres on the weekend and saw what you meant about the difference in track width

Had to turn those buckles right in but havent yet used them, used the speedminds, saving them for our next big event.

And BTW if they dont grip as well as the SM's at least they look fantastic

Mark

Also, do you use grease on the thrust bearings and what condition is your spacer between the bearings in?

ROTF

You need BIGGER room !

Yield ! muahahah

Looks like sparsky is somekind of Borg, isn't he?

Yeah, PRECIOUS ! I'm also using Speeminds at the moment. My car track width is set to the Ellegi rims. What I do when I use SM is I use spacers made out of lexan that I cut in the same shape of a hex that will space it out nicely back to 200 mm. No need to turn out and in the pivot balls.