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Old 10-17-2004, 08:08 AM   #17671
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Originally posted by Picard
I noticed you are running the standard bell housing, any overheating problems with the bearings and the shoe's?
Why would there be overheating problems with the stock clutchbell? I still have mine and use them occasionally without problems...
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:10 AM   #17672
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone with a 710 kit which has a copper coloured 17T gear?

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Mark, you need to get the GF "acquainted" with the car and all that greasy hands...
She said something like: "over my dead body" - actually, I think she meant my dead body
Secondly - I'm afraid of getting her interested.....then there'd be no escape
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:12 AM   #17673
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Originally posted by markp27
When I was at the AMCC in the UK, I had Sow have a look at the clutch and he couldn't see what was wrong.
You should know better than to trust both old pairs of eyes !

Well, so far no problems with them. I know a few who run the stock clutch bell with no problems either...
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:15 AM   #17674
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Originally posted by markp27
Interesting comment, Captain! On my current 710, I keep blowing the metal shielded bearings even though I have built the clutch as per Glenn's instructions.
When I was at the AMCC in the UK, I had Sow have a look at the clutch and he couldn't see what was wrong.

I use the yellow shoe with the standard spring. Clutch gap of about 0.6mm and 0.1mm endplay.

You believe this could be due to overheating?
That was the problem I had early and switched to the new bell housing and am still running the same bearings in the clutch, about 4 months now. The only thing I replace is the yellow shoe when it wears.

The endplay does not sound like alot either mark, How much movement does the bellhousing have when the clutch is assembled? I found also that if there is a fair bit of movement as the clutch engages and snaps onto the thrust bearing then this will also wear the bearings out faster in the clutch also.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:16 AM   #17675
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone with a 710 kit which has a copper coloured 17T gear?

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Originally posted by markp27
Secondly - I'm afraid of getting her interested.....then there'd be no escape
That's true. You'd probably have to spend time wrenching, buying spares to replace broken ones more than you would have done yourself.

Well if not, just get her to get used to the idea that the RC stuff are part of the home's furniture.

If that fails, get a room where she can never access. Specifically RC stuff only. Learn from the professionals with experience.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:22 AM   #17676
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Originally posted by Picard
The only thing I replace is the yellow shoe when it wears.
You replace your clutch shoes? I never had to do that... Not yet. I'm guessing that the problems you have with your bearings and yoru clutch shoes is due to excessive clutch slip...

Is the colour of your clutchbell blueish black in colour? That's a sure sign of the metal overheating. Overheating would lead to the bearings failing and the clutch shoes melting.

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
The endplay does not sound like alot either mark, How much movement does the bellhousing have when the clutch is assembled?
I think Mark mentioned that it was 0.1 mm end play.

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
I found also that if there is a fair bit of movement as the clutch engages and snaps onto the thrust bearing then this will also wear the bearings out faster in the clutch also.
Correct. More end play (not to be confused with clutch gap) means more "bang" the bearing will be subjected to. That is why the end play needs to be shimmed correctly so that only very little end play is resulted.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:29 AM   #17677
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Originally posted by InitialD
You replace your clutch shoes? I never had to do that... Not yet. I'm guessing that the problems you have with your bearings and yoru clutch shoes is due to excessive clutch slip...

Is the colour of your clutchbell blueish black in colour? That's a sure sign of the metal overheating. Overheating would lead to the bearings failing and the clutch shoes melting.



I think Mark mentioned that it was 0.1 mm end play.



Correct. More end play (not to be confused with clutch gap) means more "bang" the bearing will be subjected to. That is why the end play needs to be shimmed correctly so that only very little end play is resulted.
No the wear is due to excessive use, got about 5 months out of the shoe and then I replace them, no slip at all but understand what you are saying.

Sorry I though Mark meant he had a .1mm shim at endplay and that is all.

You are correct D .1mm is what I run and that should not create any problems. I aggree I just got the ceramic thrust bearings, not that I have any problems with the standard one's at all, but again with sparksy I have no choice.

Mark maybe try the new clutchbell, a few of us over hear run that bell because of the problems you described
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:32 AM   #17678
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You should know better than to trust both old pairs of eyes !

Well, so far no problems with them. I know a few who run the stock clutch bell with no problems either...
Maybe it is the power of the JP
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:35 AM   #17679
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone with a 710 kit which has a copper coloured 17T

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That's true. You'd probably have to spend time wrenching, buying spares to replace broken ones more than you would have done yourself.
and that would be the least of my problems

Quote:
Well if not, just get her to get used to the idea that the RC stuff are part of the home's furniture.
I hear what you're saying Bro - sneakily replace pot plants with a Tx unit, orniments with cars, paintings with pictures of the Prophets, etc

Quote:
If that fails, get a room where she can never access. Specifically RC stuff only. Learn from the professionals with experience.
Oh, I'm already there but my gear has migrated into the lounge She won't like that I've still got a couple of hours
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:36 AM   #17680
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Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
No the wear is due to excessive use, got about 5 months out of the shoe and then I replace them, no slip at all but understand what you are saying.

Sorry I though Mark meant he had a .1mm shim at endplay and that is all.

You are correct D .1mm is what I run and that should not create any problems. I aggree I just got the ceramic thrust bearings, not that I have any problems with the standard one's at all, but again with sparksy I have no choice.

Mark maybe try the new clutchbell, a few of us over hear run that bell because of the problems you described
Ok, I'll try the new clutchbell.

Regarding the old clutchbell, there are no signs of overheating and the clutch seems to engage quite snappily, i.e. no signs of slippage.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:37 AM   #17681
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Default New Tyres

D

Got the new serpent tyres on the weekend and saw what you meant about the difference in track width

Had to turn those buckles right in but havent yet used them, used the speedminds, saving them for our next big event.

And BTW if they dont grip as well as the SM's at least they look fantastic
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:41 AM   #17682
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Ok, I'll try the new clutchbell.

Regarding the old clutchbell, there are no signs of overheating and the clutch seems to engage quite snappily, i.e. no signs of slippage.
Mark

Also, do you use grease on the thrust bearings and what condition is your spacer between the bearings in?
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:50 AM   #17683
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Anyone with a 710 kit which has a copper coloured 17T

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Originally posted by markp27
I hear what you're saying Bro - sneakily replace pot plants with a Tx unit, orniments with cars, paintings with pictures of the Prophets, etc
ROTF

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Originally posted by markp27
Oh, I'm already there but my gear has migrated into the lounge She won't like that I've still got a couple of hours
You need BIGGER room !
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:52 AM   #17684
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Originally posted by Picard
I just got the ceramic thrust bearings, not that I have any problems with the standard one's at all, but again with sparksy I have no choice.
Yield ! muahahah

Looks like sparsky is somekind of Borg, isn't he?
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:55 AM   #17685
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Default Re: New Tyres

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Originally posted by Picard
Had to turn those buckles right in but havent yet used them, used the speedminds, saving them for our next big event.
Yeah, PRECIOUS ! I'm also using Speeminds at the moment. My car track width is set to the Ellegi rims. What I do when I use SM is I use spacers made out of lexan that I cut in the same shape of a hex that will space it out nicely back to 200 mm. No need to turn out and in the pivot balls.

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
And BTW if they dont grip as well as the SM's at least they look fantastic
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