InitialD

Mark, I hope you did not confuse end play and clutch gap. The shims at the thrust bearing controls or determines the clutch gap. The shims in between the clutch nut and bearing determines the end play. Of course end play and clutch gap work hand in hand (i.e. adding 0.1 mm on clutch gap, you need to add 0.1 mm in the middle of the clutch to take out the additional end play).

Having said that, if you did like what you had described by adding 0.1 mm spacers until there's no end play and then remove the last added 0.1 mm spacer, then you're only setting the clutch to have 0.1 mm clutch gap !

nitro rookie

I am going to have to make some drive shafts for myself this week, and was wondering if I could get some imput.
If you could improve the drive shafts on the 710, what would you make better.
I am going to the Midwest series in Toledo next week and can get new one to me in time so this is my last resort. Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks,

InitialD

Ah... Uncle Crash can sometimes work magic.

Yeah, how not to when you open the car up to small bits and pieces EVERY week and clean almost ALL car parts with soap and lube all the bearings before every weekend run !

InitialD

Splutter as in choking or splutter as in sounding rich?

How many full turns out on your HSN and LSN? Are you using the carb insert?

markp27

Ehm, well some people like to talk out of the wrong end! My car came from the original batch and after almost six months of running, I've only replaced on lower rear suspension arm.
I wouldn't listen too much to those with highly oppinionated ideas

markp27

markp27

No I didn' mix them up. Set my clutch gap by measuring the clutch bell movement (push-pull) and then determined from the measured gap how many shims I needed at the "gear" end thrust bearing. After which I placed some very small shims at the clutch end of the assembly until I couldn't see/feel any movement on the clutch bell when pushing/pulling - then I took off a 0.1mm shim and did the push-pull test again, to see if there was some end-play.

I think I had previously too little end-play and this is the reason why my metal shielded bearing kept blowing.

Cheers, Mark.

markp27

Hopefully it doesn't rain too often or else his car will disapear under soap bubbles

markp27

It sounds like you are richening your HSN. Maybe take a pic of your engine area and show us which way you are turning the HSN screw.

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

Bxclip, don't get it wrong... The parts you listed are hop up parts / aluminum parts ! There is nothing wrong with the parts you get with the kit. What parts did not fit properly for you? They fit perfectly for me and for most of us. At least that was what I got.

It is advisable to put the cover from the lock set over the holes when you're driving on a dusty track even if you're using oneway. But you're right... For smaller tracks with lower traction, you may be better off with the solid front instead of oneway.

InitialD

Yes, that is correct. You will know that it's working correct when the brakes engage.

Look at Step 9.7 on page 31, you could see that you need to use the M6 shim. I actually missed that one out. It makes the brake lever smoother so that it could swing back to neutral position when you disengage the brake.

Anyway, what I did on mine is to loosen the E11 screw a little. Not too tight that it binds.

InitialD

Yeah... And that rear shock tower is also not doing what it is suppose to do. Send it back to Serpent.

InitialD

His car is so clean and smooth. Under the chassis of his 710, you could literally stick your tongue on it. It's so squeaky clean !

markp27

Exactly! I'm going to take a hammer to it next

markp27

D, you have some strange ideas I'm not putting my tongue anywhere near crashed's car