Correct. I agree with you there. But like I initially said, it happens only in the beginning. Once the inside wheel slips on continuous power from the drivetrain, both inside and outside will lock and will have a tendency to continue to spin at the same rate.

Correct. But I think that happens only on an ideal situations where you do not get any slipping in the inside wheel which is impossible because the outside wheel gets more pressure than inside wheel due to the turning.

Once outside wheel is powered, both inside and outside wheels will be driven at the same time and the inner wheel will continue to slip controllably following the same outside wheel spin rate.

As a temporary measure, if you have a normal 5x10x4 mm bearing (same ones that are used in the Centax clutch), you could use them as a "thrust bearing". Not recommended though for long runs. Just as a stop gap measure only.

Else, if you know a shop that carries Mugen parts, the MTX-3 uses the same thrust bearing size as the 710.:nod:

Or if you know of any shop that specially sells bearings, you could get them to order for you 5x10x4 thrust bearings.:nod:

Thanks for the help Mark and IntialD.
My hobby shop can get the Mugen parts for me usually in a couple days. So hopefully I can have one by Friday.

I can see this centax is going to take some getting used to.
I just put the car together last week and ran about 5 tanks thru it and then it started acting up. I'll order a couple of them until I can get it worked out. Beside I like spare parts. I'll try and post a picture when I get it back together.

Interesting, that difference action is due to amount of throttle and steering applied. These variable will changes the traction amount from outside to inside tire.

Yep, you are right! :nod: the only remark I would make is that this only happens when power outweighs available grip and for me, I gently accelerate out of a corner, meaning at least during the first part of the corner exit, the inside wheel won't/shouldn't loose traction.

Yep, it is pretty much dynamic, so the theory says one thing, but the practice may be completely different.

http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif why is this turning into my favourite smilie http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif

:eek: :eek: Hold on....where's that ring.....aha! http://www.3hobby.com/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif

:nod:

Difference in steering input creates different inner and outer tire circle radius and therefore creates different wheel spin rate on outer and inner wheels.

And my Swahili isn't what it used to be :cry:

With a JP FX engine, is that ever possible?:sneaky: :lol:

:lol: :eek: but I'll check anyway, just in case it is rusty! :eek: :lol:

Grease it up with Super Mugen Grease.:nod:

D do you have to regularly clean the two metal shielded bearings in the centax? I keep having problems with mine - my end play is fine and I have no problems with the thrust bearings, but I keep breaking the shielded bearings.
Maybe I don't clean them as often as I should?

Strange. I only blew mine (two of them at once) when my crankshaft was bent. Is your end play too tight? Take off 0.1 mm shim in between the bearing and the clutch nut to let a little more end play. Perhaps that would help.

Anyway, I don't clean those bearing regulary. If they are grittless, I let them be. I use them new without degreasing the bearings. I find they last a lot longer at the expense of some smoothness. I thought I did mention this earlier that I degreased all my bearings except the small ones that goes into the clutch and the flanged bearing that goes into the 2 speed hub.

The other reason why I don't degrease and put thin oil in those bearings is because they do more harm spitting out oil excess into the clutch bell which can affect performance.

If you really need to oil them because they are dry, try packing light grease into them and clean the outside.