Whats this make shit? You dont need much prompting.... if its on my car you have to have it. The only thing you havent got that I have is the light shafts and the ceramic diff balls.

InitialD
Caught me looking at another car.:lol:

Ok, here's my problems with the 710, the steering throw not equal left and right. I know the fix was posted some time back, but you people go thru so many pages a day its hard to find things with out a page number. A major problem with the 710, it pushes for me really bad, entering, middle and exiting. I think the thicker rear bar might help.

I have raised front roll center, rear roll center, tightend rear bar, have not raised the DSR yet. My initial setup is according to the manual

I have not raced for past month. But besides the standard setup, I have changed shock oil to 80wt, 4 holes front piston, 3 holes rear, red springs ft and rr. standard rear roll center but with shorter rear upper arm. One way front. 40's front and rear. Have not tried this set up yet

I have trouble downloading the 710 FAQ.

So are the front upper and lower arms stronger? Everytime I smack something they bend. Ive been getting my parts from Ashford

I have only been using the speedminds about 6 months and I have always had better wear with the sato's if I was to use same 37 shore.

I just feel that although wear is sacrificed a little the grip I get from the speedminds is second to none.

What shores do the new snake tyres come in? 35 - 45?

Hi Roy

Firstly do you have the new 3 racing CF front upper bumper and second, how big is your track and how good is the grip?

The bumper will protect your front better

Yup. But I think Mushroom only has up to 42 shore...:confused:

Should be enough thanks

Roy
get your hands on the new servo saver and the steering linkage needs to be at 39.5 - 40mm to give you correct throw

Sparksy is already doing an order :rolleyes:

You guys are a bad influence on my savings account :lol:

Setup I ran on the weekend. Had tons of steering

Front

Downstops 0mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber L & R -2
Track Width 199mm
Toe in -.5
Caster 3mm
RC 0mm under (Highest)
Upstop N/A
Shocks 2 Holes 40W Serpent Tower Position 3
Springs Red
Roll Bar Flat


Rear

Downstops 7mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber L & R -3
Track Width 200mm
Toe in 2
RC Upper Upper Inner
RC Lower Low
Shocks 5 Holes 40W Serpent Tower Position 1 Lower position outer
Roll Bar 5mm in. Standard bar

Tyres Speedmind 35's Front and rear

Rear Axle Diff set soft
Trans 17 & 21 Spurs Standard
Body Protoform Mazda 6

Others
New servo saver
Alu Shocks
New Serpent engine mount
Alu X member
Alu Bracket middle shaft
Serpent Alu Roll Bar levers
CF Front bumper
bearing spacers in hubs
Engine NSR 3
Clutch Standard setting with yellow shoe

For me the car was a little loose in the rear but the track had poor grip. The reaction of the car was incredible. Super responsive. Will try harder front bar next meeting and possibly harder front tyres

:mad: Hmm more than a coincedence if you ask me my friend!!! A large disturbance in the force, the ring bearer being at the track and two guys shoot straight throught the fence on the long sweeper on the same lap - I'll let you draw your own conclusions :nod:

;)

Yes, follow what Picard has mentioned. The difference in length is due to the different dimensions of different servos used in the steering giving different lengtht. This is covered in the FAQ.

Yes, the thicker rear sway bar should really help. But try playing with simple things first like shock angles, springs and sway bars !

For more on power steering, less rear toe in, harder rear diff setting, harder rear sway bar, harder rear springs or more steep rear shock angle...

For more off power steering, slightly more toe out, more horizontal front shock angle, softer front spring, softer front sway bar, looser rear diff setting...

These are the simple things you can try which you would normally try on different cars too.

80wt?? What shock oil is that? Go back to Serpent 30wt or 35wt.

I would suggest setting the car really back to stock setup. Drive the car and see what you're lacking. Then change the things I suggested above one by one. After exhausting all of them, then only go to the more advance setup options.

Try this and that. Either one should work.

Front upper and lower arms are the same. The ones that are stronger are the upper bumper brace (802206) and the lower bumper support (802205). Like what Picard mentioned, if you can get the 3 Racing carbon fibre upper bumper plate support, then it will hold the front section better.

The rear lower arms are slightly "longer" giving you more plastic meat to thread your pivot balls deeper so that it does not rip out easy.

Thank you master, I did wonder if Sow had been telling me the truth, :nod: but Onkel Sow's mind tricks were far stronger than I had prepared myself for :cry: He could change the tyres/engines on his car quicker than I could see :eek: I must prepare myself better for the next visit!

Yes.:nod: The new servo saver apparently does a good job. If you need the car to turn in quicker while still having good rear traction, do the short wheel base mod. 1 or 2 mm shorter should suffice.

Re: Mark & Sow
 

D :rolleyes: :lol: :lol:

You were saying... :confused: :D

You're right - Sow didn't look good when he took the ring off :lol: :lol: We were attacking each other with our walking sticks/zimmer frames in the pit lane - like two old slugs fighting :lol: :lol: