Sure.. This is the quick and dirty

It not rocket science. I first start with a dogbone laying on top of my partially open vice. The vice should be open so that the dogbone body will rest on the top the jaws of the vice and the pins are protruding thru the vice but Not clamping the pins.
I then use a small brass hammer and drive the pin just before it is flush with the dogbone body. I have a front dogbone that was never installed on my car. I use this dogbone as punch since these pins are the same diameter of the pin I'm removing. I then use the front dogbone as a punch to drive the pin slightly past flush. I just want to drive the pin far enough so the new pin can be capture faily easy by the partially vacant hole. I then drive the new pin in as the old pin is drive thru the bottom of the dogbone. Only thing that is left is to insure the pin is centered in the dog bone.
I took some pics of different stages of the process. I have not ordered new pins yet; so I have no pics of the new pin being driven in.
.[/QUOTE]

Tks makes sense

Shocks absorbers.silicone
 

Hello can you say that I usais density silicone in the Shocks absorbers, it seems to me that 600 for the circuit that I walk because it is more technical and the grip is average

500 y purpura resortes

Shocks absorbers.silicone
 

Hola Seisick,hablas español,te cuento llevo el coche con 400 en los 4 amortiguadores y los pistones son 1,2 x 2 en los 4.Los muelles grises delante y de serie atras,circuito es donde se extreno el coche en españa con jony pastor,eh notado que tiene muchisima direccion como muy nervioso me copia todo lo movimiento de mi mano,la estabilizadora trasera llevo de serie ruedas 37 ambos ejes

Shocks absorbers.silicone
 

Seisick Hello, you speak Spanish, I tell you I take the car with 400 in the 4 pads and pistons are 1.2 x 2 in the spring 4.The standard gray front and back, constipation circuit is where the car in Spain with jony pastor, has noticed that a lot eh direction very nervous as I copy all the movement of my hand, is standard rear stabilizer wheel 37 both axes

Hola "manchu", por lo visto tu chasis es muy nervioso, prueba con los resortes purpura en los cuatro amortiguadores, y si tienes coloca las barras estabilizadoras de 2.2 delante y detras, amortiguadores delanteros en el orificio 2 y posteriores en el orificio 1 (lo mas inclinado posible); talvez es un reglaje facil de llevar pero no sera el más rápido.

Saludos.

herman setup is OK, try that (prueba aquel)

OK hernan este finde semana lo probare y ya comentare que tal me a ido gracias y saludos

que pasa aqui coño, los habla españoles estan controlando rctech!, vamos todavia Latinos:smile:

chasis brace
 

what do you guys think about this chasis brace? a fellow racer made it himself!
takes longer if you want to change the rear belt, but on the other hand, i see it as
more rigid if using the chasis brace just linked to the right bulkead
anyway he hasnt tried it yet but ill let u guys know his impressions once tested

The cross carbon section seems highly unnecessary, it's well braced from under and is alloy so can't imagine flexing across there, but I can see partly why he did it to make mounting the other brace easier.

Really an ideal brace will come from a well designed alloy brace, though that may require a revised bulkhead as well.

But, still debatable if you need any brace at all...

nice car :p

http://i43.tinypic.com/3354ao0.jpg

http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~dairei/

mugen will be releasing very soon the optional chasis brace, lets wait and see also which optionals for the hobbyfair in germany

can someone measure the diameter of the clutch shoe from the mtx5?